Temp

Call them and ask? I could only find this.. https://www.labss.org/news/30-october-2020-mist-systems-registered-details-are-suspended-pending-review

Ikea?

Timber decking gets very slippery. Woukdnt have one personally. How about a beam and block top with some sort of paving or stone? Think the blocks would need to be frost resistant. Given the height i think you need railings.

You can fit something like this to the extractor fan to reduce or eliminate the problem.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rc-absorption-snubber-circuit-module-relay-contact-protection-resistance-UK/333847511621?hash=item4dbadcc245:g:EoAAAOSwBYhc3ikG&redirect=mobile

Inductive loads can cause arcing in relay contacts. When the relay opens the inductor tries to maintain the current flowing through it so the voltage across it rises causing an arc across the contacts.

When excavating near buildings things get tricky if you dig below a line extending downwards at 45 degrees from the bottom of the foundations. However its not impossible to build right under a building if you really want to.

If its a very vell insulated house the size of boiler maybe dictated by the DHW flow rate. Eg if you want to run two showers at once it may need to be a 20KW boiler. So when both are running each would have a flow rate similar to a 10kW electric shower.

+1 To MVHR. Best thing we included in our house. I'm convinced good ventilation is key to keeping humidity and mould down. Avoid any alcoves or recesses where air cant circulate. I would also consider UFH and a combination of engineered wood and stone flooring instead of carpet.

@Jason L +1 to mains gas. Electricity costs at least double mains gas per kWh. So it only makes sense to use electricity if you use it to power a heat pump. Under the right conditions Heat pumps can be >200% efficient. However the efficiency can vary from 100% to 350% so care is needed when choosing one.

How about this type. Would need a rubber stop to prevent them hitting the ceiling as they open more than 90... https://www.locksonline.com/Neuform-Hinge-for-15mm-to-16mm-Door-Thickness-590.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAgc-ABhA7EiwAjev-j8rnrjnYKI14KZ3ToWk7bywU5ZzJlm871I2lBMCaQK96fD3_sc9MxhoCdScQAvD_BwE

Fit hinges to the outer layer with a clearance cut out around them on the inner layer?

+1 You can aim for better air tightness but I wouldn't rely on achieving it.

Is the foil on the insulation shiny/reflective? If not I'd just fit two layers direct against the wall.

Some on ebay.

Is this a new house?

Sounds like the heat exchanger on the back of the freezer would be in a recess? That should be well ventilated to let the heat out.

Some guidance on ventilation here.. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/7-roofs/7-2-pitched-roofs/7-2-15-ventilation-vapour-control-and-insulation/ Generally you need vents at the eaves equivalent to a 10mm wide slot the full length. Is there actually a slot in the soffit/facia area to feed air to the glidevale rv655 baffles you mention? You can also improve ventilation by using membrane lap vents.. https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/felt-lap-vent.html

We have UFH on both floors. Decided to use Beam & Block for both with insulation and UFH in screed on top. Partly because we had a previous house with a solid first floor and liked it a lot but also because we wanted tiled bathroom floors and this sorts it at a stroke. I know it was more expensive but never did an exact cost comparison. Only put 80mm PIR in the floor which was a mistake. Would put more if building again.

See page 9.. https://www.ukpowernetworks.co.uk/internet/asset/3b7f1ee6-1fc8-461a-a5d5-a4909a64895B/UKPowerNetworks_Site+Information+Pack_V2Dec2017_FINAL.pdf Local suppliers normally know what's needed. Tell them its for a new supply/connection so needs to be DNO approved not a DIY garden shed project.

Carbon tax- Tax builders profits in proportion to the house owners first years energy bills?

Neighbours can be annoying. If you are just removing the bottom step and replacing it with a few more I would just do it. However I would wait until the neighbour is out and give the edge of the bottom step a wack with a sledge hammer so that its obviously "damaged" and needs "repairing". These delivery drivers can be so careless. Take a photo of broken step in case you need evidence. If you are planning more major work like replacing the front door and building a wheelchair ramp then I suspect that would have to comply with the Building Regs. These do specify the dimensions of all this stuff including things like the width of the ramp. However I think that may only have to be 900mm wide as its a "private part" not a "communal part" - I think the latter applies to ramps at the entrance to flats? If you would prefer to do this we might be able to come up with other ideas. You might also see if the council has any grants for making houses more accessible?

If there is any dust in the limestone it can end up setting up like concrete. Its very hard to remove with a spade later so make sure you do a good job cleaning up the site before you get rid of the excavator.

Never done it but have seen people recommend a cold fill asphalt compacted with a hammer then painting the whole drive with a tarmac sealer to colour match. Seems a bit drastic?

I wouldn't just use MOT for the foundation either. I have one low height from railway sleepers laid flat and even used concrete for that. I predrilled holes in the sleepers and put the bottom ones down while conc still wet and pushed rebar through into the concrete. Elsewhere we have the walls in the photos below. We put drainage on both the uphill and down hill side. At the foot of the wall we put a linear drain that drains the patio and collects water coming through the wall. The curved beds are single brick on concrete founds. They have a drain at the bottom and pea gravel. All bricks and blocks should be FL (frost resistant). Yes I know patio needs pressure washing and some moss killer.

In case it matters there is (was?) this in the Class Q legislation.. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/schedule/2/part/3/crossheading/class-q-agricultural-buildings-to-dwellinghouses/made