Temp

In general they can issue a revised invoice demanding the VAT they should have charged. I can't recall anyone ever saying this had happened to them on the forum. Its very rare for anyone to charge you too little VAT. Normally they want to charge you standard rate when it should be 0 or 5%.

+1 We had to move a water main and it was zero rated to us because it was a new house. In your case they should charge the 5% rate and you should reclaim it at the end.

In this photo you have a branch coming in at the bottom joining the main run which is flowing left to right. Ideally you would cut the concrete, bash a hole in the brickwork and form a new branch like the existing one. This would either come in from the top or one side of the existing branch. Then you repair the concrete (called benching). The new branch can be in plastic pipe. Here is one before the benching has been replaced.. Source: https://www.pavingexpert.com/drain05#exic Ideally the new would be at the same level as the existing branch but if your new pipe will only handle water not "solids" it should be fine to have a step entry as per this photo. You can have more than one branch on the same side if there is room.

No it doesn't go away because you can get enough water forming for it to drain back down to the plaster board. The key is to make a good job of the vapour barrier which must be near enough to the warm side that you dont get condensation on it. Putting too much insulation on the warm side effectively "moves" the vapour barrier and ply/osb nearer the cold side of the insulation increasing the risk. For simple drawings I'm using an ancient progam called Paint.net. I think it might originate from MS Paint but around this time Microsoft were in trouble for giving away programs with Windows so they let a third party develop it. https://www.getpaint.net/ I think its still free. There are probably better progs available but its fairly easy to use and works on Windows 10. For more advanced stuff like 3D printing I use Fusion 360 which is a full blown CAD package. You can get a free personal use license for that as well.

My guess is he intended to gift the land on the red map and this somehow got messed up when it was measured and sent to the land registry. The reason I say this is because it shows the right hand boundary running between between two "features" which look like field boundaries or boundaries with other plots of land. Whatever they are they appear on both red and green maps. I think it very unlikely that he deliberately intended your plot to start "51.3m from the top right corner" unless there is another feature at that point that is not shown on any maps. Why not 51.3m from the bottom right corner? It is much more likely he intended it to run between these two points and the plot was measured incorrectly. If you measure between these two points now is actually 61.3m rather than 51.3m ? This also explains why he hasn't noticed a problem. Your house is still above where he thinks the boundary is even if it is in slightly the wrong place.

The planners normally require some sort of material work to have been carried out. On a new house that's typically digging foundations, getting them inspected and filled with concrete. On a wind farm near us they constructed the entrance, laid some meters of road and stopped, then applied for a certificate of lawfulness to get it confirmed that they had started. I think you would have to show that work had started on both PP or they might argue one had been started but not the other. I believe the regs are "frozen" at the point you apply for Building Control approval.

Rough Sawn timber should be close to 125mm. My local timber supplier could probably cut something to whatever size you need and send it away to be pressure treated. Might be a mistake to get it too close to exact size. Are SIPs straight to within 3mm?

I noticed in the guidance it says.... https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/830643/190910_Tech_Guide_for_publishing.pdf Is this a change? I thought in the past that only the bit within 2 meters had to be below 2.5m.

I believe you can build a warm roof with up to 1/3rd of the insulation between the joists and 2/3rd above. However you probably need to get an interstitial condensation risk analysis done to confirm. The insulation suppliers might be able to provide one of you send them your proposed make up. That would mean the underside of the rafters would be about 60mm higher but the gaps between them would be perhaps 30mm lower than a roof with all 200mm insulation above. Something like.. 1. Structural timber beams to span the 6m building depth with a built in fall of 1:40 to be left exposed leaving height within the building 2. Plywood 18mm on top of the beams 3. Air and Vapour control layer 2mm 4 Insulation layer 140mm. 5 Single ply PVC water proofing membrane 2mm, quoted 35 year life 6. 60mm fitted between the rafters. Age gaps around edges sealed. 7. 20mm battens fixed to side of rafters. 8: Plasterboard fixed to battens and skim. Flat roof rafters on a 6m span will be about 220mm deep I think. PS: You might be able to use insulated plasterboard instead of insulation, battens and regular board. That would reduce the 30mm loss between the rafters to perhaps 12mm. The insulated plasterboard would have to be screwed diagonally into the sides of the rafter or perhaps even glued to the underside of the OSB/Ply.

Metal expands when hot.

Would they notice if the whole roof was accidentally one course of bricks higher? I guess the neighbours might?

Plumbers insurance or were you the plumber?

I suspect you may have to go that route. Check if you have to notify them of a claim within x days.

Perhaps I've missed it (it is nearly 1am) Im still not sure why you can't just raise the roof say 150mm higher.? Is the roof height limited by Permitted Development rules for the eaves height near a boundary? A window on the side of the house?

So I wonder why zinc covered OSB needs more ventilation than say GRP covered OSB?

I would put 200mm of PIR above the rafters with OSB above and below the insulation. Then if noise is a concern fit sound insulation between the rafters, possibly resilient bars and two layers of plasterboard. No downlights.

Is the path a public footpath? Sometimes planners try and argue that an extension on any side facing a highway (and a public footpath counts as a highway) needs PP. However I'm reasonably sure its only the "principle elevation" that matters. The guide says.. As the dormer is on the side that means you need obscure glass in the windows to come within Permmitted Development. See page 31 and 36 In the document above. Yes if they turned up and said you needed PP you could either challenge that or apply for PP retrospectively. There is a risk they could refuse or require changes..

Can you tell us more about issue? Photos? Perhaps there is a better solution than expensive insulation.

Is that a horizontal or vertical slot? What's above it and how far above? If its just a slot in an otherwise featureless wall that's one thing. If had a padstone supporting a steel beam above it that's quite another matter. Likewise a hole in a pier between two windows might also be unwise. Typically if you cut hole without support then a triangular shape piece of wall above that hole is at risk. Its not quite that simple but hey ho.

Floor levels wrong? Slab not level?

+1 Normally you don't need PP to add windows or doors but there are exceptions. Building Control Approval will almost certainly be required.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/25/garage_conversion/2 In some cases you have to put a proper foundation under where you brick up the garage door. You can't necessarily just build off the garage floor slab.

https://www.thefpa.co.uk/news/fire-safety-advice-and-guidance/do-fire-doors-need-to-be-self-closing- "In private dwellinghouses, a self closing device is only required if your home has an internal garage door. Both ADB and the Local Government Association’s publication Fire safety in purpose-built blocks of flats state that no other fire doors in your private home require self closing devices – although it is recommended!"

They don't in England. Not certain about Scotland or Wales.

Yes but its not necessarily as bad as it seems... If a loft conversion makes it a three storey house then yes you normally need what Building Control call a "Protected" exit route. Can be a problem if the house is open plan. Normally it means the walls and doors to the stairs need to have improved fire rating. Provided its not open plan on the ground floor you normally only need fire rated doors BUT they do not need to be self closing like in a hotel. In some cases I think existing doors can be modified to meet the regs.

If its brand new I'm prety sure the regs say it need not be tested for a year. @ProDave ?