Temp

I know the self heating effect isn't ideal but the internal temperature of the stat should still track external changes in temperature provided they aren't subject to changing draughts from the MHVR or your desk fan. I would try and recalibrate them then monitor to see how well they track your thermometer over a few days. Cheaper than replacing them all. You don't actually want the stats to respond to short term fluctuations in room temperature because that causes cycling of the heating system. I have wax cartridge actuators that take several mins to open/close so fluctuations shorter than that are effectively ignored anyway. So the fact that changes in room temperature take awhile to reach the sensor buried in the stat shouldn't matter too much. Obviously you don't want it to take hours to catch up but 10-20 mins shouldn't hurt.

Are any of the MVHR vents directly above the stat? If so I would adjust any vanes to point the air flow away from the stat and then recalibrate the stats. See how they work then.

Here is a photo of the remote sensor I built. Just a small project box from Maplin with three holes drilled top and bottom and an NTC inside. Cant remember if its a 10k or 20k Ohm but it was in the manual for the stat somewhere. and this is the old Heatmiser stat we have showing the vent holes. Same both sides and similar on the bottom. None on the top - probably to keep dust out?

You would expect them to track room temperature but only if the power they dissipate is constant (probably true) and the thermal resistance between inside of stat and the room is constant. Sounds like the latter it isn't true due to changing air flow from the MHVR. In other words they can only be calibrated with MVHR either on or off not both.

+1 The big risk is that printing money and a poor balance of trade leads to inflation and higher interest rates. Then we start having to pay a lot of tax just to service our debt leaving less for public services and investment.

Its quite hard to make money actually building houses, I'd suggest most of your gain would be planning gain. Parking is likely to ge a planning issue?

Dont know why I didn't think of this before but.. If you make the shuttering from pressure treated timber with strips of 12mm WBP on top the shuttering could be left in place and form part of the timber frame supporting the tray. Just remove the 12mm WBP strips and replace with the 12mm WPB panel.

Have done two trays in screed floors. This is what I've done.. Shutter the area under the tray full depth of the screed. Arrange for waste pipe to enter void as far away from likely waste position as possible. I suggest near a back corner but not right in the corner. Say 2" away. Low as possible. Have it enter at 45 or 90 degrees to the side of the tray not some random angle (to avoid needing a flexible pipe). McAlpine have a range of top access traps that have different minimum depths for the pipe and different flow rates. Use the diagrams to see how far down the pipe must be. I would use 50mm pipe. https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/shower-traps-accessories Pour screed to top of shuttering. Later when you have the tray you will make a timber frame with WBP on top to support the tray in the void. When you have the tray.. Take waste trap apart so you are working with just the bit that goes below the tray. Trial fit the waste pipe work to get trap in right place and height. Construct timber frame to support tray. Add >12mm WBP on top with oversize hole for waste. Top of waste should be flush with top of WBP or a few mm above it to allow for mortar bed. It helps if the pipework allows the trap to move up and down say 10 mm and a few mm in other directions. But do not allow it to fall down too far. Put a small block under it if necessary. Thus is to ensure the top part of the trap will reach it. Trial fit tray and top of waste and check tray level. When 100% happy take it all apart. Solvent weld the waste plumbing and recheck position. If you use a lot of solvent adhesive you get a few seconds to twist joints to get correct alignment. Test for leaks. Screw down WBP. Double check waste position. Do all this next bit in one go... Mix mortar for bed. Lower tray in place on mortar and check level. Run bead of sealer around waste hole in tray. Insert top of trap through hole in tray and screw into lower part of the trap. Tighten but don't over tighten. Wipe up any sealer that squeezes out. Recheck tray is level. Let mortar set. Before laying the tray inspect the bottom of the tray around the trap area. It should be smooth and flat so the sealing washer on the lower part of the trap works. If not then may need sealer on washer before laying tray as well as around the hole on top. If the timber frame is resting on insulation I would put WBP down on bottom as well to spread load. Forgot to say all timber should be pressure treated.

Mine are 230V but most are in surface mount back boxes. The stats don't have massive vents but never seen this issue. They seem to read pretty accurately. If anything the one we have with the remote sensor is the least accurate and I made the remote sensor myself.

So let's say you buy for £200k and sell 10 years later for £400k. Gain of £200k. At 10% you would pay £20K leaving you with £380k to buy the new house. But new house the same size costs £400k. Need to increase mortgage £20k.

Ive had Heatmiser stats for 13 years without any issues but they are an older model. I'm wondering if you have a wiring issue? Are they the12V version powered by the wiring centre? Is the wiring centre putting out a higher voltage than it should? If you call Heatmiser don't bother going into all the detail about the MVRH that just confuses the picture. Just tell them the stats appear to be over reading and its not a calibration issue.

https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/advice/section-106 "..it was decided that where a new Local Plan has been adopted after 28 November 2014 (when the exemption was introduced) this outweighs the Section 106 exemption." So if your local plan is older that 2014 you might be exempt.

You should also check if self builders are exempt from S106 contributions. Thats been the subject of many legal challenges since 2014. Might be they can't make you pay.

Thing is they aren't meant to grant permission subject to agreeing an S106 contribution in the future. The thinking goes... How can they approve an application when essential mittigation hasnt been agreed? For this reason appeals in the past have ruled that S106 agreements should be considered alongside the planning application. S106 payments are even considered "voluntary" because in theory you have other ways of mitigating the impact.

Bring back the Poll Tax/Tax per person?

+1 See also comments in here..

Is it a 50mm Euro rather than a 40mm Euro? Is there such a thing as a "50mm Euro"?

Whats the thread on the stainless steel part? Also 45mm?

I've also use Ronseal solvent based wood preservers on oak and it does stop it going black and slimey while still fading to grey/silver. At least on west facing surfaces. East facing are still brown.

Not that bad. Mass produce a load at once out of WBP?

I think it would need the current owner to agree to the charge? The split might be delayed as permission from the council would be needed to remove it from part of the land? I think it might complicate things to start before the land is split.

It seems to be holding up well on our oak.

+1 I have to apologise to my neighbours for my bad language sometimes. Invariably I'm cursing out a designer for some reason or other. Usually there is an obviously better no cost solution if only the designer had got his hands dirty.

Even the Roper Rhodes are like that. They don't have rear bumpers and would need taller ones than at the front. "Splashing out" will stain carpet.

I'd paint that with a single coat of dainish for colour then a few coats of Osmo UV protection oil.