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Dan_the_man

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  1. Good idea, something I will explore. I saw this and fell in love. It is only 1300 long but surely because its so deep it would be pretty comfortable to sit in? Also below a good idea for the shower curtain hung above, but I guess it would get dirty very easily.
  2. A standard sized uk bath is 1700 x 700. I guess I could increase the length of the bath an extra 100mm at the expensive of the shower.
  3. The photo I shared of a neighbours property has exactly the same issue with the toilet next to the bath. He is 6 foot 6 and seems to have no issues using the toilet. One thing to point out is that he is slim build. If the toilet was against two walls it would certainty be an issue I agree but having the low bath helps I feel. From research it seems, The space around the toilet should be at least 760mm, with at least 510mm in front. My space around the toilet falls short by 135mm. I do agree with you knee space is cramped.
  4. No room to move any walls unfortunately. I am struggling to see where it would be cramped at. With the shower screens folded away there should be ample room. The toilet beside the bath is not so bad as your arms are higher than the bath.
  5. This is a neighbours bathroom. They still have the tightness issue with the sink and toilet being so close to the bath. I have a slightly longer bathroom as I am making the cupboard for the gas smaller than theirs.
  6. That seems like an excellent idea. I guess if I am placing my shower head centrally in the ceiling would the gap you have between the doors have not let splashes out still? I would only be able to make the door 650mm wide to allow it to fold against the wall, the tray is only 700mm deep. This would leave a gap of 350mm, what is your gap?
  7. I have managed to squeeze a 1600 x 700mm bath and 1000 x 700mm shower side by side in this extremely small bathroom. I want the shower tray to be flush to the floor so was looking at a bettefloor shower tray. My main issue is I can not make this a wet room due to the proximity of the bathroom door which would get damaged by water splashing. To prevent water splashing when taking a shower I would have a glass panel over the bath and a bifold shower door. The shower door would rest along the back wall making the shower totally open allowing easier access to the sink. You can see the bottom two images are the type of door I am after however this particular door seems to need a bottom rail which is not what I want. I want the threshold between the shower tray and the floor to be seamless to allow your foot to not be impeded while standing at the sink. I understand there would be a small gap between the shower door and floor but I was thinking of fitting a rubber bottom to the glass which would seal the gap and I could slide with the door into the wall. Will my idea work?
  8. I want to grow Hydrangea which is a climbing plant up my 6 metre party wall in my terrace house court yard. The terrace houses on my street were build in 1910. The house next door to me has Hydrangea growing directly up my shared party wall. However this has caused problems internally in my property. Damp is getting in because the red bricks are unable to breath due to the Hydrangea trapping the moisture in when it rains. I will probably have to ask them to remove the Hydrangea. I was wondering if there is anything I could attach to me and my neighbours party wall which would allow me to grow Hydrangea up it without causing damp issues in their property? Maybe building a secondary wall which would have a keyed in damp proof course to their wall? Many thanks
  9. Currently the exposed brick wall is in a yard. I will not know about any sound issues until I build the extension. I did speak to a neighbour who has a similar setup and they did not complain about sound issues except for hearing plug sockets being turned on and off.
  10. I am about to start on a yard in fill extension on the ground floor on a mid terrace house. On the ground floor I want to leave the party wall red brick exposed inside my kitchen/dinning area. The brick work of the wall is made from Belfast red brick and it is of solid wall construction. The wall has headers running through it every 3 bricks high and from these I assume the wall is approx. 250mm thick. On the neighbours side of the wall is their kitchen/dinning area and to reduce noise travelling between the two properties my quantity surveyor has suggested that I should fit sound insulation along the party wall and use brick slips to recreate the exposed red brick wall. I would like to know what other people in my situation would do? Would you go to the extra expense to fit sound insulation and then fit brick slips on top and accept at 100mm loss of space internally? Please see image of the proposed insulation below. One good thing is having the brick slips would create a flush join with the plastered pillar but I am losing access to the internal pipework which I would have to move up 90mm. Many thanks
  11. Yes I had saw that. I guess my concern is if it ever breaks and needs replaced do you have to hire a crane.
  12. Does anyone have any answers to the suggestion of putting the ASHP on the flat roof and my idea of having the ladder access through the landing window.
  13. Will day to day running costs with the Hitachi Yutaki-M ASHP and Sunamp for hot water will be roughly the same as the Combi Gas boiler?
  14. Do you mean a shed to house the hot water tank , under floor manifolds etc? Would that be even practical. The only place I can fit a shed would be at the very bottom of the garden as marked on the first image.
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