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Temp

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  1. Temp
    Perhaps I've missed it (it is nearly 1am) Im still not sure why you can't just raise the roof say 150mm higher.? Is the roof height limited by Permitted Development rules for the eaves height near a boundary? A window on the side of the house?
  2. Temp
    So I wonder why zinc covered OSB needs more ventilation than say GRP covered OSB?
  3. Temp

    Bestest Flat roof

    Temp replied to ianfish's topic in Flat Roofs

    I would put 200mm of PIR above the rafters with OSB above and below the insulation. Then if noise is a concern fit sound insulation between the rafters, possibly resilient bars and two layers of plasterboard. No downlights.
  4. Temp
    Is the path a public footpath? Sometimes planners try and argue that an extension on any side facing a highway (and a public footpath counts as a highway) needs PP. However I'm reasonably sure its only the "principle elevation" that matters. The guide says.. As the dormer is on the side that means you need obscure glass in the windows to come within Permmitted Development. See page 31 and 36 In the document above. Yes if they turned up and said you needed PP you could either challenge that or apply for PP retrospectively. There is a risk they could refuse or require changes..
  5. Temp
    Can you tell us more about issue? Photos? Perhaps there is a better solution than expensive insulation.
  6. Temp
    Is that a horizontal or vertical slot? What's above it and how far above? If its just a slot in an otherwise featureless wall that's one thing. If had a padstone supporting a steel beam above it that's quite another matter. Likewise a hole in a pier between two windows might also be unwise. Typically if you cut hole without support then a triangular shape piece of wall above that hole is at risk. Its not quite that simple but hey ho.
  7. Temp
    Floor levels wrong? Slab not level?
  8. Temp
    +1 Normally you don't need PP to add windows or doors but there are exceptions. Building Control Approval will almost certainly be required.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/25/garage_conversion/2 In some cases you have to put a proper foundation under where you brick up the garage door. You can't necessarily just build off the garage floor slab.
  9. Temp
    https://www.thefpa.co.uk/news/fire-safety-advice-and-guidance/do-fire-doors-need-to-be-self-closing- "In private dwellinghouses, a self closing device is only required if your home has an internal garage door. Both ADB and the Local Government Association’s publication Fire safety in purpose-built blocks of flats state that no other fire doors in your private home require self closing devices – although it is recommended!"
  10. Temp
    They don't in England. Not certain about Scotland or Wales.
  11. Temp
    Yes but its not necessarily as bad as it seems... If a loft conversion makes it a three storey house then yes you normally need what Building Control call a "Protected" exit route. Can be a problem if the house is open plan. Normally it means the walls and doors to the stairs need to have improved fire rating. Provided its not open plan on the ground floor you normally only need fire rated doors BUT they do not need to be self closing like in a hotel. In some cases I think existing doors can be modified to meet the regs.
  12. Temp
    If its brand new I'm prety sure the regs say it need not be tested for a year. @ProDave ?
  13. Temp
    Article on cold and warm zinc roof make up.. https://www.sigzincandcopper.co.uk/standing-seam-zinc-roofing-design-part-2-three-typical-buildups/ Summary of main differences: Cold roof has insulation between or below rafters. Needs height above the rafters for the 50mm ventilation gap and vent upstand (100-150mm?). Warm roof has insulation above the rafters (sometimes with 2/3rds above and 1/3rd between) so need height for that and a flashing.
  14. Temp
    Google for roof abutment vent. If your zinc is going to have a profile then the supplier may also have a matching abutment vent. On regular pitch roofs the abutment vents sometimes just lift the flashing up a bit so air can get out from under it. On flat or shallow roof pitches there is an upstand that lets air go up between it and the wall then down and out from under the top flashing. If you are pushed for height under a window you will have to find a shallow solution (reduced upstand). Image borrowed from here: http://www.glidevale.com/article/70/faq-how-do-i-ventilate-a-cold-flat-roof-and-which-product-do-i-use
  15. Temp
    I think if you've just done the inside I'd look at moving ?
  16. Temp
    My guess is its just caused a backlog of work because more transport is needed (among other issues). I'd be surprised if they have been told to stop completely.
  17. Temp
    Sometimes the bit the utility say they must do turns out to be disproportionately expensive. So it doesnt always make sense to get a third party to do it. Remember this should be zero rated for VAT to you. If they have included VAT get them to requote.
  18. Temp
    Winter is best time to plant/move trees. Take a look at the planting advice for "standard" trees on tree nursery web sites like here.. https://www.barcham.co.uk/guide-category/planting-guide/ Main problem is the weight of the root ball and earth. Its a big lump so excavator is best as @Russell griffiths said.
  19. Temp
    An alternative might be a combination of a multifoil type insulation and PIR but opinions are divided on how good multifoil is in practice. Your BCO might have an opinion.
  20. Temp
    I think only Aerogel is a better material than PIR but I don't think its available in thick enough sheets to give you the same insulation. The lambda value of Spacetherm (an aerogel derived insulation) is 0.014 W/mk according to.. https://www.phstore.co.uk/aerogel-spacetherm-blanket That compares with around 0.022 to 0.032 W/mk for PIR So you would need between.. 150*14/32 = 65mm And 150*14/22 = 95mm Of Spacetherm to equal 150mm of PIR. Two layers of 40mm making 80mm in total would probably do it.... but at a cost of £375 per square meter !
  21. Temp
    I don't think the CIL applies in the Highlands but what would happen down here in England if a couple splits up within 3 years of completion? Presumably nothing if one person can afford to stay in the house?
  22. Temp
    If he has a mains pressure tank just about any mixer shower should work fine.
  23. Temp
    I believe you need to get this sorted with the land owner. What if he died? The new owner might not be so sympathetic. Unless I'm mistaken they can go to court for trespass and get a court to order you to pay damages and that might still not fully resolve the problem. Presumably you dont just need the bit under the house itself but also a strip of land. The planning department probably have 10 years to initiate enforcement action because the encroachment is onto agricultural land which would require change of use. If your ex is still on the title be very careful. Just because he's not paying his share of the mortgage doesnt automatically mean his share of the property reduces. You need to get legal advice on how thus should be documented. Each month he doesnt pay should reduce his share. A lot can change in 10 years. It would certainly have to be resolved if there was a forced sale.
  24. Temp
    Has @Chris8986 got his vented and unvented mixed up?
  25. Temp
    Ok here.. https://salus-controls.com/files/THB230-Quick-Guide-V008.pdf it says they just have two wires. That means the actuator must have some built in means of self closing when the stat stops calling for heat. It could be a battery to run the motor or a mechanical spring or a wax cartridge or whatever. So if you are certain about this.. It means there must be a fault with that mechanism or with the way it interacts with the valve. Valve too stiff? Battery becoming discharged due to short cycling by the stat? ?
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