Temp

Actually it seems they have switched to offering calls over WiFi https://www.4g.co.uk/news/ee-o2-three-and-vodafone-which-networks-offer-wi-fi-calling/

WiFi and 4/3g are totally different. Boosting WiFi has no effect on 4g. Some phone companies used to offer mini 3/4g base stations that provided a phone signal indoors and used your broadband connection but I suspect they have all stopped offering those now. There are some (illegal) mobile phone signal boosters that have an aerial outdoors, an amplifier and another aerial indoors. I half remember that another forum member has used one but perhaps I'm wrong. It's not me! Different phone companies use different masts. At my house the EE signal is stronger than Vodaphone for example so ask your friends around and compare network and signal strength. Changing network might improve things.

I've accidentally done something similar. Worse case it will be render and render board off to repair and replace. Could try dissolving the foam with a solvent? Try it on some scraps made for the purpose first.

The water cant push the air bubble down hill as it tends to float back up to the high point. Water actually flows past the bubble leaving it in place.

A week or two back I read that councils don't have the power to issue a second decision notice even to correct errors.. https://www.localgovernmentlawyer.co.uk/planning/318-planning-features/22731-the-finality-of-decisions They also only have 6 weeks to fix an error via court action.. https://www.tozers.co.uk/insights/council-seeks-to-overturn-planning-permission-it-issued-in-error

We have something similar in MDF. Looks just like plaster when joints filled and painted. However we had cracks appear at joints as it shrank slightly. Remade it with glued joints not just screws and it's been fine.

No, we had no blotches at all. Just a very slight colour change when sealed but it can't even remember if it went darker or lighter is was so minimal. Sorry.

Our small bore drainage (solvent weld) is in the insulation. The 110mm is in the ground. No problems.

https://news.sky.com/story/your-proposal-is-whack-council-worker-mistakenly-rejects-planning-applications-with-sarcastic-comments-and-decisions-are-legally-binding-12401881 'Your proposal is whack': Council worker mistakenly rejects planning applications with sarcastic comments - but decisions are legally binding Two applications to demolish separate pubs were both approved, with the responses "incy wincy spider" and "why am I doing this am I the chosen one". A junior council worker who thought they were testing a dummy website rejected and approved real planning applications, adding a sarcastic comment to each - with the decisions now legally binding. One applicant, a charity boss, was told by Swale Borough Council her plans were turned down because "Your proposal is whack", with a second comment adding, "No mate, proper whack". Five applications for Swale Borough Council were affected, as well as a sixth from Maidstone which was rejected with the reasons: "Don't even bother re-applying lol" and "not even joking lmao". Continues..

Afraid I went for the Stihl km 131 which is about £440 now. There are two versions with and without the bull bars. I think there is also a km 130 a bit cheaper. A good second hand unit would be worth considering. They also have 2 stroke models like the KM 56 and 94 which are more like £200-250 I think. Stihl don't like online discounting so many sellers require you to collect from their office. Supposedly so you can get "training" or some such. I don't use a chainsaw very frequently and got an unbranded two stroke one from Amazon to save money. The best strimmer head IMHO is the Echo Speed feed 400. It super easy to reload with line. Wish I'd discovered them years ago. They do two versions the "universal" version comes with adaptors to suit various other strimmers. The regular version doesn't have the adaptors. So I have an Echo 400 head fitted to a Ryobi Expand-it Strimmer attachment fitted to a Stihl KM 131. Only had to file some paint off the Ryobi to make it work on the Stihl.

I got fed up breaking Ryobi Expandit multi tool engines so got myself a Stihl 4 stroke equivalent. Its heavy but much more robust and takes third party attachments (hedge trimmer, strimmer, brush cutter, pole/chainsaw). If its heavily overgrown and just needs clearing once then a rented power scythe might be an option.

One manifold for the ground floor looks fine... You mention three zones (15, 35 and 31sqm). Even if the two largest (35 and 31 sqm) needed two loops each that's only a total of 5 ports (1+2+2 = 5). Manifolds come with different numbers of ports up to 12 or more. Consider adding a port for a towel rail?

We did pretty much what your tiler did. Layed the stone, waited 24 hours and sealed it with one coat then another 24 hours and grouted them. We put on another two coats later. Not sure its his fault unless the stone was soaking wet. If it was saturated he probably should have waited before sealing. Think I would try pointing a fan heater on one spot in a less conspicuous area to see if drying it will fix the problem.

Changes that affect support for the floor above are likely to come under the Party Wall Act.. http://www.flat-living.co.uk/advice/1335-understanding-party-wall-matters

Welcome to the forum. Am I right in thinking that the magement company you mention is more like an owners association that looks after maintenance of the block? Eg the other flat owners are also directors? or is it a company just you and your husband own that is unconnected to other flats in the block?

+1 to plywood. I would seal the ply with a sealer recommended by the tile adhesive company (not PVA). Perhaps also consider a decoupling mat.

If the old paint isn't sticking well to the wall you will probably end up taking a lot of it off no matter what you try to seal it with. Think I would try a primer like Zinsser Gardz rather than PVA. Anyone got a better idea?

Our plot had a footpath across it but the paperwork to divert it along the edge was in place when we purchased it. All we had to do was level and grass the new route and get the paperwork finalised by the footpath officer. Sounds easy but... Footpath officer was a pain. We got the route levelled and seeded but Footpath officer wanted to come and inspect it. He came, looked at it and said we had to wait for the grass to grow before he would finalise the new route. Until then our builder couldn't legally start because the old route was still live. So overnight we turfed it and called the Footpath officer to tell him it had "grown". He still wanted to do another inspection before allowing us to proceed and drove over 35 miles each way to do so. All this despite there being another official footpath exactly parallel with ours just 1m away the other side of our boundary. These two paths meet up at each end of the garden. Fortunately this other path is the route everyone walks because its through a church yard. In 10+ years I've not seen anyone walk the footpath through our garden. We haven't bothered to fence it off. The OS maps are still wrong. Things to bear in mind.. You need permission to put a gate on a footpath. Suitable justification could be to contain livestock. Not sure about other valid reasons. Every now and again someone gets a bee in their bonnet about access to the countryside for the disabled. I've no issue with this at all but I've had people suggest footpaths should be tarmac. After leaving our garden our footpath leads about a mile across a farmers field that is heavy clay ploughed a few times a year. I usually tell people I will consider it if they persuade the farmer to do his field first.

I've no idea if these really do offer self build mortgages in practice or just like to think they do but here.. https://moneyfacts.co.uk/mortgages/self-build-mortgages/ It lists the following BS.. Progressive BS Hanley Economic BS Loughborough BS The Melton BS Ipswich BS Saffron BS Dudley BS Beverley BS Scottish BS They may have geographical restrictions? This site has similar list https://www.money.co.uk/mortgages/self-build-mortgages.htm and adds.. Ecology BS Loughborough BS Newbury BS Vernon BS

Perhaps the only lender that give him commission?

Drains should be at least 300mm deep unless they will be driven over so perhaps start that deep. Then 25m at 1:40 would go down 0.625m so the depth below surface is now now about 300+625 = 925mm. Then you say the garden slopes down 2m over 60m.. 60m at 1:40 would be another 1500mm fall but the ground slopes down 2000mm. So the depth below ground at the treatment plant would be 925 + 1500 - 2000 = 425mm How deep does it need to be at the treatment plant?

WD40 is quite a thin oil. I think something a bit heavier or possibly even a grease might last longer?

+1 Our house has two floors each on three levels. One manifold per floor on the highest level works fine. What you need is enough ports per manifold/floor. Some large rooms may need two loops, smaller rooms one loop or possibly even sharing a loop if that makes sense. By making sense I mean I wouldn't share a loop between two bedrooms as some people like very different temperatures at night. In addition there is a risk to sharing loops - it only works if the heat loss/gain is similar. Don't share a loop between a cold north facing room and a south facing room with large windows.

I'd think of the future.. https://underfloorheating1.co.uk/blog/article/Underfloor_Heating_with_a_Ground_or_Air_Source_Heat_Pump

+1 Leave all loop valves open for the pressure test so a leak in any floor loop will show up on the pressure gauge. You might see some variation in pressure due to temperature changes over next few days/nights.