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I might be wrong but i thought you only need planning permission for "change use" if the two uses are in different "use classes". I thought PP wasn't needed if they are in the same use class? In which case the question is. Are "Private open space" and "Private Garden" both in the same class? Unfortunately this page doesn't seem to help. Might be necessary to look at the "Use Classes Act", I think that's what its called. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/9/change_of_use

Make sure you know if its a warm or cold roof construction. Details here.. https://www.tendringdc.gov.uk/sites/default/files/documents/planning/building control/Flat roof guide.pdf

That sounds like a loose connection at the upstairs switch.

Sounds like a recipe for a creaking floor.

Is it just this room? If so I'd fix it properly. If there is no head height issue downstairs I'd knock the bricks off replace with deeper joists resting on the steel. At other end of the room there are ways to fix joists to a wall without having to cut new pockets. For example bolt a timber to the wall using resin anchors and the use joist hangers. I'm thinking two days work. Knocking out the noggins and sistering the joists will also work fine but its like crashing a car. The insurance co might do a good job of making the damage go away but I can't unknow its happened.

Seems a perfect black body in the sun can only get to about 90C.. https://www.quora.com/What-material-will-get-the-hottest-if-it-is-left-out-in-the-sun 364K =90C Edit: For some reason I cant post the latex calculation at that link but check it out

All I could google was this.. https://www.kcbd.com/story/14930192/how-hot-is-the-playground/ Presumably thats 200F = 93C

+1 Once planning Permission is granted its nearly impossible to get it withdrawn or amended. You have some rights when it comes to building on or near the property boundary but don't get too excited... Nothing can overhang the boundary line without your permission. That includes things like guttering and rainwater down pipes, window sills etc. In some cases this means that the wall of the building has to be built some inches, perhaps 1ft, on their side of the boundary. Its not uncommon for builders to (conveniently) forget this and build the wall adjacent to the boundary meaning the eaves and gutters are going to overhang when they get that high. If you think this will happen stamp on it quickly. If you leave it too late they may not be able to afford to rectify and will likely carry on relying on the fact that you can't afford court action and courts are fed up dealing with such minor matters anyway. Legislation allows neighbours access to each others land for maintenance purposes but there is no similar legal right of access when doing new building. In general its is better to allow them access to build the conservatory because it makes it easier for them to make your side look good. For example it's harder to lay bricks "overhand" (eg from their side only) and get a good finish on your side. If the fence is yours they have no legal right to remove it, either permanently or temporarily to make construction easier. Amazingly the neighbours DO have a right to put their foundations partly on your land IF IT IS NECESSARY. However it is very rarely necessary. The Party Wall Act says.. a Building Owner shall have the right “… to place below the level of the land of the Adjoining Owner such projecting footings and foundations as are necessary…” The Party Wall Act gives you some rights IF their foundations are going to be within 3m of yours AND are going to be deeper than your foundations. There are other rules but this is likely to be the most important for you. However unless you live in a very old property it is unlikely that the foundations they need for a conservatory will be deeper than your house. If this were to be the case you might be able to bog them down in surveyors costs but try and resolve things amicably first. Right to Light Act: The 45 degree rule is an attempt by councils to recognise people have a right to light. However the 45 degree rule is not "law" its only guidance as you found out. The law is detailed in the Right to Light Act. This would only be worth investigating if it looks like they will be virtually blocking up one of your windows. From what you say its very unlikely the impact their conservatory will have will reduce light levels enough in your rooms to amount to a breach of the Act. If it did then this could be a show stopper as it trumps Planning Permission.

Does he want to inspect it before you pour?

I don't think there is a formal grading system, at least not that consumers can reference. I suppose some factories that make WC for several different brands may offer different grades to them.

I think that Building Control will need to see drawings and calculations for the structural ridge beam that you mention. But I would wait until you have planning permission granted before you get these started.

Sometimes the email server at an ISP goes slow. Ours seems to go slower the more times you ask your email program to check for new messages. So if someone tells you they have just sent you a large message don't sit there hitting the check email button wait 5 min until it's more likely to have arrived at the server. Next time while you wait hit up fast.com and see what it says about your broadband speed at that moment.

Looks like it was installed at an angle to allow the drawer to close. It might be possible to swap out the waste trap for one that isn't so tall. Thus allowing it to be straight. My guess is this will also stop the leak if it's coming from the white waste pipe.

Toolstation have clips.. https://www.toolstation.com/jg-speedfit-rail-pins/p38831

Amazon have clips, delivery today if ordered in next hour or so.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/UNDERFLOOR-Heating-Staples-Tacker-Clips/dp/B07LFC4MBG/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Underfloor+heating+Clips&qid=1629707224&sr=8-5

Not sure if this is 16mm? May need gluing down as no barbs. https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-jgufhrail-clip-rail-2m-16-pack/51541?tc=MA3

Our electrician used something like these to form the T junctions for our mains powered wall lights.. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SWJKT1.html Should really get an electrician to install yours as outdoor mains wiring is notifiable under Building Regs. I think you can (must) earth the outer but I think it's recommended to have an earth core as well? I'm not an electrician just an electronics engineer. Edit: I'm sure they are cheaper elsewhere.

Make sure you understand the rules for class Q. You're going to need evidence of agricultural use. Evidence they have been used to store cars or similar can cause problems.

If the plaster skim is good and flat without and defects then yes just treat like normal new plaster. Guide here.. https://www.dulux.co.uk/en/expert-help/dr-dulux-painting-on-new-plaster I recommend inspecting the plaster first to check for tiny lumps and bumps as painting can show them up. Easier to knock them off with a scraper or sanding block before you start painting.

It's common for the planners to send a letter stating they intend to issue enforcement proceedings. The key is to find out what they want you to do about it. Sometimes they think you need Planning Permission and are likely to grant it. Sometimes they really want the building work reversed. Sometimes they want changes. Ask them. If they say you need planning permission but they are unlikely to grant it and want them removed I would find yourself a local Planning Consultant.

As I recall there is a rule of thumb that to avoid condensation you should have at least 2/3rds of the insulation above the rafters and no more than 1/3rd between. That's 2/3rds of the Thermal resistance not thickness. I believe that can be done easily with something like 150mm PIR above and 100mm Rickwool between but I rushed the sums. Have any thicknesses already been specified ? .

Air gap?

If you had input from an SE and Building Control (and your mortgage Co?) then I think any refusal would be deemed unreasonable. https://www.penningtonslaw.com/expertise/business/real-estate/property-entrepreneurs/property-entrepreneurs-faqs/faqs-dealing-with-tenant-requests-for-alterations-and-assignment

I would suggest no perimeter insulation on the one that needs the Constructional Hearth. Should be ok on the other one. We have regular wood skirting around the inside of our recess. Think I would put perimeter insulation around before screeding, trim it back flush and cover with the stone.

The Approved Document describes two types of stove, those that are/aren't certified that they won't raise the hearth over 100c. This determines the total thickness of the hearth needed. From memory it's 12mm or 225mm. So check that first.