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Sadly if they have a right if way over your patio there is little or nothing you can do to prevent them using it. Do they need to use it or have they got an alternative route to the highway? If they have an alternative you could consider offering to buy out their ROW. The cost would depend on their need and your ability to haggle. There would be some solicitors and land registry costs.

+1 to what others have said about waterproofing and gel/resin filling the boxes. Air expands and contracts with temperature changes and can suck water in past seals.

If its a warm roof (insulation above the rafters) then you shouldn't add too much more insulation on the underside. The thinking is that there will be a thermal gradient from hot inside to cold outside and that If you put a lot of insulation on the underside as well you effectively move the structural parts of the roof towards the outside temperature increasing the risk of condensation forming. I believe the general rule is no more than 1/3rd of the insulation should be below or between the rafters with 2/3rds above. So if you had 100mm of insulation above the rafters then don't put more than another 50mm below. Also worth adding a vapour barrier before plaster boarding to reduce risk further but this may have an implication for downlights (ideally they shouldn't penetrate it).

Perhaps I misunderstand your post but the supply of materials only should be standard rated to you.

I think you need to find out which came first. If the ground was leveled and retaining wall built to allow your house to be constructed then unfortunately I think its your responsibility. If the road was widened and the retaining wall constructed after you house was built then you might have a case. Is there anything in your deeds? Are neighbours affected? Have Highways Dept inspected the wall? https://www.devon.gov.uk/roadsandtransport/maintaining-roads/managing-the-network/retaining-walls-and-bridges/ So if you allow it to fall down they might be able to send you the bill to fix it. What does your house insurance cover? Sometimes they won't cover retaining walls unless they have been adequately maintained.

Is it a new house? What's the chimney liner made of. Our chimney uses 225mm pumice liners with a 45 degree bend at the bottom so it comes out of the wall at 45 degrees. To that we fitted a register plate (more like a funnel) then 150mm stove pipe to a floor standing stove. All this is within a block work recess so you only see the stove pipe dissappear vertically upwards. You can't see the register funnel unless you look up under the lintel. Can the cassette stove be installed in plasterboard? I might be wrong but I think class 1 is intended to stop fire spread in the event of a fire not be subject to constant heat. I think you best get a HETAS approved installer involved.

I'm not sure how you can connect into the existing chimney. I don't think horizontal runs are allowed/recommended so I think you have to go back and up at 45 degrees which may put the connection above the lintel?

Think I would still try and call HMRC. Record the call. Tell them you know the existing building must be demolished but "what about outbuildings like a shed or garage, does that have to be demolished as well?"

There are some guides but not great.. https://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/blog/light-a-sloping-ceiling-lighting-from-a-different-angle/ Adaptors are needed for some lights to cope with the slope.

Personally I prefer the original design (if not the catslide). Think the new one is going to be dark inside with all those small letterbox windows.

As I recall covenants only bind future owners (eg you) if they are written to the benefit of nearby land rather than people. Yours appears to be written to benefit the transferor (eg a person or company) not the land next door. See... https://www.harrison-drury.com/property-construction/challenging-and-enforcing-restrictive-covenants/ Sorry about large font. It's in the original. [mod comment: formatting fixed]

This page hasseveral definitions of Private Open space... https://www.lawinsider.com/dictionary/private-open-space private open space means land that is privately owned and used for practising of sport, play- or leisure facilities or used as a botanical garden, cemetery or nature area. Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Based on 23 documents Save Copy private open space means an area external to a building (including an area of land, terrace, balcony or deck) that is used for private outdoor purposes ancillary to the use of the building. private open space means an area external to a building (including an area of land, terrace, balcony or deck) that is used for private outdoor purposes ancillary to the use of the building. "property vegetation plan" mean a property vegetation plan approved under Part 4 of the Native Vegetation Act 2003 before the repeal of that Act (as continued in force by the regulations under the Biodiversity Conservation Act 2016 ). "pub" means licensed premises under the Liquor Act 2007 the principal purpose of which is the retail sale of liquor for consumption on the premises, whether or not the premises include hotel or motel accommodation and whether or not food is sold or entertainment is provided on the premises. private open space means an open space to which the general public has no right of access and which is used as a private sport and play ground or as an ornamental garden; Would need to look and see where they come from to check if relevant. Edit: most seem to be from overseas documents,.

I might be wrong but i thought you only need planning permission for "change use" if the two uses are in different "use classes". I thought PP wasn't needed if they are in the same use class? In which case the question is. Are "Private open space" and "Private Garden" both in the same class? Unfortunately this page doesn't seem to help. Might be necessary to look at the "Use Classes Act", I think that's what its called. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/9/change_of_use

Make sure you know if its a warm or cold roof construction. Details here.. https://www.tendringdc.gov.uk/sites/default/files/documents/planning/building control/Flat roof guide.pdf

That sounds like a loose connection at the upstairs switch.

Sounds like a recipe for a creaking floor.

Is it just this room? If so I'd fix it properly. If there is no head height issue downstairs I'd knock the bricks off replace with deeper joists resting on the steel. At other end of the room there are ways to fix joists to a wall without having to cut new pockets. For example bolt a timber to the wall using resin anchors and the use joist hangers. I'm thinking two days work. Knocking out the noggins and sistering the joists will also work fine but its like crashing a car. The insurance co might do a good job of making the damage go away but I can't unknow its happened.

Seems a perfect black body in the sun can only get to about 90C.. https://www.quora.com/What-material-will-get-the-hottest-if-it-is-left-out-in-the-sun 364K =90C Edit: For some reason I cant post the latex calculation at that link but check it out

All I could google was this.. https://www.kcbd.com/story/14930192/how-hot-is-the-playground/ Presumably thats 200F = 93C

+1 Once planning Permission is granted its nearly impossible to get it withdrawn or amended. You have some rights when it comes to building on or near the property boundary but don't get too excited... Nothing can overhang the boundary line without your permission. That includes things like guttering and rainwater down pipes, window sills etc. In some cases this means that the wall of the building has to be built some inches, perhaps 1ft, on their side of the boundary. Its not uncommon for builders to (conveniently) forget this and build the wall adjacent to the boundary meaning the eaves and gutters are going to overhang when they get that high. If you think this will happen stamp on it quickly. If you leave it too late they may not be able to afford to rectify and will likely carry on relying on the fact that you can't afford court action and courts are fed up dealing with such minor matters anyway. Legislation allows neighbours access to each others land for maintenance purposes but there is no similar legal right of access when doing new building. In general its is better to allow them access to build the conservatory because it makes it easier for them to make your side look good. For example it's harder to lay bricks "overhand" (eg from their side only) and get a good finish on your side. If the fence is yours they have no legal right to remove it, either permanently or temporarily to make construction easier. Amazingly the neighbours DO have a right to put their foundations partly on your land IF IT IS NECESSARY. However it is very rarely necessary. The Party Wall Act says.. a Building Owner shall have the right “… to place below the level of the land of the Adjoining Owner such projecting footings and foundations as are necessary…” The Party Wall Act gives you some rights IF their foundations are going to be within 3m of yours AND are going to be deeper than your foundations. There are other rules but this is likely to be the most important for you. However unless you live in a very old property it is unlikely that the foundations they need for a conservatory will be deeper than your house. If this were to be the case you might be able to bog them down in surveyors costs but try and resolve things amicably first. Right to Light Act: The 45 degree rule is an attempt by councils to recognise people have a right to light. However the 45 degree rule is not "law" its only guidance as you found out. The law is detailed in the Right to Light Act. This would only be worth investigating if it looks like they will be virtually blocking up one of your windows. From what you say its very unlikely the impact their conservatory will have will reduce light levels enough in your rooms to amount to a breach of the Act. If it did then this could be a show stopper as it trumps Planning Permission.

Does he want to inspect it before you pour?

I don't think there is a formal grading system, at least not that consumers can reference. I suppose some factories that make WC for several different brands may offer different grades to them.

I think that Building Control will need to see drawings and calculations for the structural ridge beam that you mention. But I would wait until you have planning permission granted before you get these started.

Sometimes the email server at an ISP goes slow. Ours seems to go slower the more times you ask your email program to check for new messages. So if someone tells you they have just sent you a large message don't sit there hitting the check email button wait 5 min until it's more likely to have arrived at the server. Next time while you wait hit up fast.com and see what it says about your broadband speed at that moment.

Looks like it was installed at an angle to allow the drawer to close. It might be possible to swap out the waste trap for one that isn't so tall. Thus allowing it to be straight. My guess is this will also stop the leak if it's coming from the white waste pipe.