Temp

See..

All evidence helps but you can't be sure it will be enough. Find as much as you can. Letters from other neighbours or family confirming when it was built would also help. If they accept that it's more than 4 years old you won't have to change the size.

Unfortunately it's not measured like you think on L shape houses. See diagram on page 19.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance

Has this loop ever worked? Eg did this floor get noticeably warmer last winter? Sorry if obvious but.. Do you have carpet in both sitting room and hall? We have a mix of carpet wood and stone and they feel quite different when working normally. If the flow meter says there is flow and it worked before I can't think of anything else it can be. Sometimes an actuator pin gets stuck or the actuator pops up off the valve, but if you see the flow meter changing and the return pipe gets hot it can't be something like that.

Did you DIY the electrics or use an electrician? Reciept from him? Bank statement showing payment?

Good catch. Looks deeper than the 3m allowed under permitted development rules for a rear extension. They Google Street View etc

As for evidence try Google Street View or aerial photos.

There is a 4 year time limit. If you can prove it was finished more than 4 years ago they cannot take enforcement action. If you have good evidence send them copies and in a covering letter state that if they take enforcement action it would be your intention to appeal on the grounds that the development was completed more than 4 years ago. If its newer than 4 years old then check if planning permission is required. Unfortunately it's complicated to work out. There is a guide here.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance It might need permission due to its height close to the boundary. What's the floor area? If over 15sqm then you may also need Building Control Approval. It might not be possible to get that easily (flammability of walls).

That's quite a narrow angle. I currently have 12 gu10 in our kitchen and prefer much wider beam angles 90-120 degrees. Fewer shadows and less "spotty" but bit more glare. Problem is finding them. Most DIY sheds only stock 38 degree.

That could be due to inadequate ventilation and higher humidity rather than temperature.

If there really is a lack of soakers that would explain a lot. I can see they replaced the cut in flashing with stepped flashing but its the soakers that do 90% of the waterproofing. The soakers stop water running down the roof from getting in. The flashing basically just stops rain getting down behind the top edge of the soaker (eg rain running down the side of the chimney). I don't suppose any of them took better close up photos to show you soakers were missing? Video on soakers and flashing.. https://youtu.be/7PB0yLt5v3k https://youtu.be/j3pQ5cEoacE

Welcome to the forum. A few people have had air trapped in a loop. If that's the problem connecting hoses to force water through the problem loop at speed appears to be the recommended solution. Once that's done you need to ensure there is enough corrosion inhibitor in the system as the gas is a corrosion product and it can/will come back. Check other things first like flow meters. If water is flowing through the loop then air is about the only easy to deal with problem.

We have something similar and for a few seconds I thought you had posted a picture of our place! But we only have one course of plinth bricks.

LED diodes operated within spec and temperature can last 30,000 hours. If used for 6 hours a day thats near 20 years. The problem is knowing if the fitting operates the diodes in spec and at a reasonable temperature. Some designers use fewer or smaller LED in the fitting and push more current through them to get the brightness back. This makes them cheaper than they would otherwise be but reduces life expectancy as they are stressed more. I suspect the expensive branded models are well designed but who knows apart from the designer. Are they expensive because they use decent spec LEDs or to pay for the warranty claims they expect? Some of the cheap LEDs are so much cheaper you could afford to replace them 2 or 3 times over and by the time they fail they might be cheaper still to replace (replastering aside). Depends on your attitude to risk.

Was the claim filed within 3 months of you receiving the valuation in April? If so that could help.. The claim form says your claim must be filed within 3 months or you must explain why it wasn't in a covering letter. I think I would take a two prong approach in the letter.. 1) Provide evidence to support your view of when it was completed and make meet the 3 month rule. 2) Point out would wern't aware the "back dated" valuation had been issued until date in April and even though this was before you were complete you managed to file the claim within 3 month of you receiving it. Presumably the valuation officer doesn't have evidence to the contrary?

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It's not possible to guarantee the garages wont/can't be developed. All planning applications have to be considered on merit and normally in isolation but not always. Generally getting pp for one house can make it easier to get PP for another in certain sitiuations but it really depends on the site.

Yes it sounds like they are going to argue the house was complete on 1st December 2020 when it was valued so nothing after that can be claimed. I would strongly argue the house wasn't "completed" until just before you occupied it and provide evidence. We're any services not connected until then?

Cold Fusion now called Low Energy Nuclear Reactions or LENR still rumbles on. This was latest project I've been reading about.. https://www.cleanplanet.co.jp/en/science/

OT but look what other countries are doing.. "Plan Calls for Vietnam’s Coal Power Production to Double by 2030" https://learningenglish.voanews.com/a/plan-calls-for-vietnam-s-coal-power-production-to-double-by-2030/6272633.html

In France I've seen ASHP used to heat swimming pools.

Sorry if this is obvious but.. Don't use insulated screed over UFH or you will wonder why your rooms are cold and your return temperatures are so high ?

What I meant was if I was replacing it I'd measure the hole diameter in the door hinge and find a threaded rod long enough to go from top nut to bottom nut. Then a tube with an ID to match the threaded rod or a bit bigger. Add some washers and job done. Normally you wouldn't have threads on a hinge pin as it causes wear but it's not like the door is going to be doing hundreds of rpm :-) If really keen buy an unthreaded rod and a die to cut threads each end. I'm away from my PC or I'd do a sketch.

How good are you at metalwork? Most likely the threads and bar are a standard diameter. If the door has to come off I'd be thinking about cutting it and remaking using a length of threaded rod, tube and domed nuts.