Temp

They are rated at 10/12kw so performance should be similar to a 10/12kw electric shower.

+1' I don't think its screwed into the spacer tube. The pic on the left of page 6 seems clear. Pull up on the top nut rather than unscrew it. Perhaps lever under the nut? My guess is the pin might have corroded into the tube. In which case some wd40 on it might help. .

Oh dear.. "Daily Mail: ROGER BISBY: Heat pumps are one of the biggest cons I've seen in the building trade." https://www.dailymail.co.uk/debate/article-10109299/ROGER-BISBY-Heat-pumps-one-biggest-cons-Ive-seen-building-trade.html

How big is this boiler? A 25kw combi is £820 from screwfix. Plus fitting obviously. Oh and British gas will let you pay monthly (9% interest).

Yikes. That's more than copper.. https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/coppa-gutta-box-gutter.html 2.4m box is £61.24 Inc vat. Pro rata that works out at £46 Inc for a 1.8m

Typically frame drawings look like this.. Note how they specify the distance from the front face to the centre line of the waste. Then the other half diameter of the waste pretty much sets the minimum depth. If you have a horizontal waste pipe it's actually it's better to allow more depth so you can have timber frame in front of the waste pipe to support the "plasterboard" (I recommend Hardibacker board for this).

WC Waste pipes are typically 110mm diameter which is more than 4". Are these wall hung WC going on a Geberit frame or similar? They typically provide drawings for how deep the studwork needs to be.

I would expect the seller to do this normally. Not least so that all three plots have the same rights and responsibilities over the access. However as mentioned by @Ferdinand in any contract negotiation its normally better to be the one that writes and ammends drafts. Shared access roads can be a pain. In England at least... in order to be adopted they typically have to be built to Local Authority standards for a year after the last House is finished or some such. Can be an issue if the last House is never finished.

The Guide says it applies if you want to..

The PWA is not just about Party Walls.. As I recall the PWA applies if you are excavating within a certain distance/depth of a neighbours "structure" but I can't remember if a structure is defined anywhere. It sounds like the surveyor is after his cake (your money) and has said the planter counts as a structure. I would do some googling to find out what counts as a structure. It's worth knowing that there is no penalty for not complying with the PWA. It only becomes a problem if you cause damage to the neighbours structure and it ends up in court. In which case the judge may take a dim view of your non compliance. But for the cost of a planter I'd settle out of court if I thought I'd damaged it. Wrote the above before I read..

Ours was modest so Royal Mail with their insurance.

Nice flat panel LEDs are the thing now.. https://www.google.com/search?q=flat+led+downlight&sxsrf=AOaemvIrKvuNN43dOQbWNLnaBlzEeD1KtQ:1634162334405&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=2ahUKEwjh1MmLscjzAhV6g_0HHQYgCLsQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1575&bih=856&dpr=1

Na I reckon the whole front wall goes up and down like on Tracey Island or Wallace and Grommet.

20% reduction due to difuse shading by a TV aerial wire...

When considering a planning application the planners are officially only allowed to consider "valid planning reasons" for refusal or rejection. This doesnt include things like the impact on the value of your house or loss of a view. It doesnt directly include an individuals need but may do so if they can show there is a lack of suitable housing in the area to meet their need - which is usually the case when someone is disabled or from certain other minority groups. Forget a solicitor as there is nothing they can really do. If you want to fight it i would spend money on a planning consultant. Remember you only have a limited time to object. Once approved there is really nothing you can do in practice. Unless they block your driveway they can park where they like. Consider making an application for a dropped kerb to widen your driveway?

Looks like you arecright though. I thought when the loops were upto temperature the mixer didn't just recycle more from the loops but also sent more unused hot flow back to the boiler. So I expected the return from the mixer to get hot. As that's not happening it must be as you say eg the bypass is opening. I have a Reliance mixer as well but its a different model.

The Reliance blender is a fairly standard model so should be fine. If something was switching off the motorised valve feeding the UFH but leaving the boiler running that might explain why the bypass is opening?

Sorry I didn't notice that distinction in your OP. Some pictures of the manifold and mixer might help. It does sound like there is another bypass somewhere that is opening to allow hot flow back to the boiler when the mixer shuts down. On our system there is a bypass built into the mixer so there is only one return path. Some mixers have a minimum ratio so always take some hot flow.

Are you allowed to have a ridge beam bridging the insulation in a loft these days? eg Is Option (c) "Beam at Ridge" with insulation between the rafters allowed?

In order to make 40 degree water for the UFH the mixer takes water at 65 and blends it with 30 degree water from the UFH. The calculator here.. https://www.spiraxsarco.com/resources-and-design-tools/calculators/water-mixing/water-mixing .predicts that the ratio needed to make 40C will be.. 28.6% Hot flow at 65C 71.4% UFH Return at 30C So quite a high percentage is returned to the boiler raising the return temperature. The boiler return is going to be the same percentages but the other way around so.. 71.4% Hot flow at 65C 28.6% UFH Return at 30C and that makes 55C as you are seeing. Do you need the boiler flow to be so hot? Normally >60 C is recommended to avoid legionnaires disease but its sometimes possible to run it a bit cooler and install a timer and stat that heats it to 65C say once a month. Depending on the tank design it can also be possible to dose the system with chemicals but I think this needs a tank that has a heat exchanger on the output rather than the input of the tank. Lowering the boiler flow 5 or 10C will lower the return by roughly the same amount.. 1) If you lower the boiler flow to 60C the mix ratio to make 40C changes to.. 33.3% Hot flow at 60C 66.6% UFH Return at 30C and the return becomes 66.6% Hot flow at 60C 33.3% UFH Return at 30C The return temperature should fall to about 50C. Some boilers say <54C is needed to be in condensing mode. 2) If you lower the boiler flow to 55C the mix ratio to make 40C changes to.. 40% Hot flow at 55C 60% UFH Return at 30C and the return becomes 60% Hot flow at 55C 40% UFH Return at 30C The return temperature should fall to about 45C. You could try out these lower boiler flow temperatures for awhile and see if there are any noticable issues such as the DHW being too cold or perhaps a room heated by a rad being too cold when its very cold outside. Our system runs a TS at 55C which is about as low as we want to go before my wife complains the shower mixer is maxed out.

We have B&B on both floors of our house. Has Insulation and screed on top and plasterboard below. Never had any blocks crack or fall down. Love it for the solid feeling.

Its quite possible for a plot to be "outside the development boundary" but at the same time "not isolated". I reckon the planning officer decided it wasn't isolated as defined by the court case.. Then his boss took a look and decided to over rule him on the grounds that it was outside the development boundary. If you are building a "paragraph 80" house it is presumably going to be a significant building with budget to match. I think its work employing a planning consultant to handle the application. I wonder if the planners needs feel a house must be isolated in order for the exemptions in para 80 to apply?

Welcome to the forum.

In general its normally best to apply for planning for everything you want to do at the outset. Not least as this maximises how much can be zero rated for VAT.

Are you going to live in this house? In which case you shouldn't have to pay the CIL as you can claim the exemption for self builders.