Temp

Its common for such things to be in the deeds of all the houses. Not sure if it's possible but it might be worth adding a dispute resolution process. It's not uncommon for one party to want to replace something while another only wants to repair it again and again. Majority voting? Minority pays for surveyors report?

We were going to use hand made bricks but planners rejected them as having too much texture. Ended up using a mix of Audley Antique and another similar brick which I forget the name of.. https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/facing-bricks/traditional-brick-and-stone-facing-brick-audley-antique-pack-of-600/p/621571 Pretty happy with the result and was able to spend more on the roof tiles.

I tried to read up on lime mortar before we built our place but also got differing opinions. Some places say its not real lime mortar if its got any cement in it. Others dissagree. In the end our bricklayers recommended a lime cement mix they had used with our bricks on a garden wall I could go look at. Glad I went with their recommendations. Thus may seem odd but it looks more sandy than cement only mortar. Whatever you decide I recommend you get them to build a sample wall about 1m x 1m using the bricks and mortar mix you propose somewhere in a corner of the site. You can tell them it's to check if the motor mix will look right but also use it as a QA sample.

General idea looks OK to me. This looks a bit higher than the one on the West elevation? Or am I miss reading the drawing.

Our house isn't airtight but we still love our MVHR.

With some WC pans there is space for a block of wood/WBP under the pan. We glued this to the floor and screwed the pan down into that to avoid any risk to the UFH.

+1 to mounted vertically. What I meant was you might be able to run a pipe horizontally then vertically up in the same boxing as the 110m soil pipe and put this small AAV in the loft as well.

Doesn't it just move that drawer space/cupboard from upstairs to downstairs? Or do you loose headroom in the WC?

There are some rules in the building regs about doors opening onto landings. The landing must be a certain size unless it's just a cupboard door.

What reason have they given?

I went with 150mm/6" no rebar. Mine has a tiled roof.

Which way is best depends on the cost of concrete vs bricks and labor, the weather and your attitude to risk.

If it helps... I don't think the AAV pipe has to be straight up.

Ideally fill until a whole number of brick/block courses below DPC. Normally for "fully filled" I think that's 3 brick courses (or 1 block). Otherwise 6 brick (2 blocks). I think the minimum depth of concrete is 450mm but best check.

If it doesnt say anything in your deeds then I suspect you don't have to give any notice. I would tell them something like.. "At some point over the next 10 (?) weeks you will need to exercise your right to run services over their driveway in accordance with the terms of your deeds. You anticipate this will require trenches to be dug and may take y days to complete the work. Unfortunately you do not yet know when the work will be carried out as you are at the mercy of abc utility company. However you will endevour to keep them informed and give them as much notice as possible".

Hard to tell from photos so some of my comments might be wrong but.. The foundations look suspect/unclear to me. Have they reused an existing hardcore patio base or did they dig trenches? The design looks odd. Two pillars like that are very vulnerable. Would expect at least one to be tied into a wall. Are Building Control involved? Have they seen drawings or inspected the foundations? The form work for the lintel looks wrong. Doesn't extend far enough to the left? Bearing ends should be 100mm (?) at least so not long enough? The wood spacer blocks look to be in wrong place and will create voids in the lintel. Perhaps it's unfinished or not what they plan to use? No cavity wall? DPC?

I remember a similar one involving a parcel delivery man. He arrives with parcel that just fits through office door. Secretary distracts him while they move the door jam in an inch. Then she checks the address and tells him is for next door.

I reckon just loosen just the 4 hex with slots and try again. Might be stuck, give door bit of a shake. Will need to loosen all the hinges at same time if that's not obvious.

Think in England you include the bottom for rainwater soakaways. The half the depth issue might be something to do with water pressure in the hole?

You would have to look at local planning policy. Some councils mandate a certain ratio of car parking spaces to bedrooms. There could also be a requirement to carry out Bat surveys that can cause delays.

+1 Remember you claim the exemption using the proper forms and meet the other conditions required to avoid the CIL.

I think you have two options something like.. Carpet Underlay 18mm OSB or Flooring grade chipboard Routed and foiled EPS with UFH pipe between joists Insulation between joists Carpet Underlay Metal Heat spreader plates (just flat sheets) Routed Chipboard and UFH pipe 18mm OSB or Flooring grade chipboard Insulation between joists I don't think 18mm Routed Chipboard is strong enough on its own over joists. I believe its intended for use over concrete floors or similar.

Do they still charge you call time?

In my case it was plasterboard that became "pregnant" when I put too much expanding foam in the wall. Had to remove it as not enough access to try dissolving it.