Temp

Think most can manage 80-100 mm bend rads.

I'm not aware of any planning rule that adversely affects L shape outbuildings specifically.

I had look but the nearest I could find is this - but its to do with Planning not Building Warrant.. https://www.sepa.org.uk/media/163472/water_assessment_and_drainage_assessment_guide.pdf But also found this written in 2001. Perhaps out of date? https://www.lawscot.org.uk/members/journal/issues/vol-46-issue-03/taking-the-lid-off/

We lived in a house in Belgium that had a solid first floor. Loved that so much we used Beam and Block for both ground and first floor when we did our self build I England. That required us to use blocks for the walls. No problems with a nice stone floor in the bathrooms as all rooms upstairs have UFH in screed just like the ground floor. I'm afraid I can't tell you the cost difference as we don't know but we love it.

Sorry, No you don't get the fee back.

Now looked at the other pages... Your Electric Account was in credit by £299.39 ex VAT Your Gas Account was in debit by £46.53 ex Vat. Together and after taking VAT into account they owed you £ 265.50 They made two payments to you of £74 totaling £148.00. Check your bank account to see if these arrived. They still owe you £141.93. Well that's my reading.

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I think it has to be more than 1m away from the house to be counted as an outbuilding rather than an extension. The dimension rules are different for outbuildings and extensions.

Got any 12mm WBP spare? Could use that to stiffen the whole thing.. 146 + (2×12) + (2×9.5) = 189mm

Did you send in the CIL exemption claim form at same time as the PP application? If so I suspect they couldn't process it until PP was granted and not sure anyone will have told them.

To get enough heat transfer warm air systems need much higher flow rates than MVHR. A friend if mine had ducted warm air heating and even with the higher temperatures of a gas boiler compared to a heat pump the flow rates were high enough to be noisy in bedrooms at night. Our MVHR is inaudible.

Our UFH ystem is unpressurised so easy to put inhibitor in via the header tank.

Normally only an issue for much bigger trees on some types of clay soil.

https://www.knotweedhelp.com/japanese-knotweed-uk-map-how-close-is-it-to-your-home/ Check if its in your area already. Might help you deflect any blame but best deal with it as it can affect property values and make houses harder to see.

I think its more about getting sufficient flow rate to shift it rather than the pressure. Consider putting some corrosion inhibiter in the system while you're at it. Check the amount needed on the instructions as you may need a few bottles. My system needs something like 3 * 500ml bottles.

Building Control drawings are intended to satisfy Building Control that the end result will meet the Building Regulations. Architects will happily sell you a set of Construction Drawings that tell the builder what to build. They may contain more details not required by Building Control.

If other taps are OK it's looking more like an issue with the pipe to the kitchen tap or the kitchen tap itself. Some taps have mesh filters that can scale up, either on the inlet to the tap or the mixer outlet. By PRV do you mean you mean a Pressure Relief Valve or a Pressure Regulating/reducing Valve? Eg does it have a tun dish and outflow pipe?

Google finds.. https://pumpexpress.co.uk/explaining-cold-water-accumulators/

I wonder why they were isolated? I think these work a bit like large expansion vessels. See if water comes out when the precharge valve is opened.

Shouldnt really as rain can splash onto wall above the dpc.

Another with pictures. https://www.pv-magazine.com/2021/09/23/triple-solar-unveils-new-photovoltaic-thermal-panel-for-heat-pump-houses/

Importing is a bit hit and miss at the moment. On arrival in UK you should be charged import duty (which might be zero), UK Vat and probably a handling charge. Only the UK VAT can be reclaimed. That said I've recently imported from China and Italy and paid nothing other than what the seller charged.

They have been sending such letters for at least 14 years as we has virtually the same reply to our full planning application..

If their foundations allow, you could dig a bit deeper, put in a perforated pipe leading to your (or their rainwater?) rainwater drains and cover with gravel. Keep the top of the gravel 2-3 bricks below DPC. If you want to fill the trench higher you would need to tank the side of his garage and then do the above. Personally I wouldn't do this.