Temp

Double checking I see that one is 90mm at the left hand end. So I think you need this one.. https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/geberit-hdpe-duofix-straight-connector-110mm/ Which fits a 90mm pan on the right and a 110mm push fit socket on the left. That means you want one of these 135mm bends instead of the solvent weld bend.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-135-single-socket-bend-grey-110mm/13199?tc=IB6&ds_kid=92700055281954505&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAiAz--OBhBIEiwAG1rIOgkYNciguvpRgG1ukkO_cpXMMHhDBGvLrYQgsFAaSlKSmlgv_nsPORoCHWQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds That might mean using push fit rather than solvent weld for the other parts as I don't think you can mix and match

Normally a stand pipe produces a pretty impressive flow rate. What did your builders use for mixing mortar etc? Did they turn it off when they finished? https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-universal-stopcock-key-920mm/71652

To qualify for class Q they must be (and have been) in agricultural use for 10 years I think. You must read up on what counts as agricultural use. Check Google Street View and the like doesn't help the planners refuse your application.

There is bound to be a YouTube video or 10 showing how to install and set up a Freesat/sky dish. Wasn't hard to replace mine. I used a meter and short lead to connect it to the LNB at the dish to max out the signal. https://www.toolstation.com/proception-dvbt-and-satellite-finder-meters/p44578?store=K1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dt&pcrid=565612566369&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAiArOqOBhBmEiwAsgeLmdhKOpjZDTPLRdnyCmvBd0Q7sZkip2GfT5JttpEpnr_YyYXesz9-SRoCp78QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I've no experience with Hardwall and single skin brick. Is it rendered outside? Google finds comments recommending sand and cement instead. Personally I would be fitting internal wall insulation. I doubt PVA is the best to seal with either if there is any damp. https://www.plasterersforum.com/threads/hardwall-on-external-walls.37045/ "i rang british gypsum today to confirm what i already knew. they told me that you can use hardwall on solid 9" external walls only if they are dry, hardwall did replace renovation plaster as they were basiclly the same. they also recommend dri coat for solid walls that have had a damp course injection." "ya but the problem is there solid walls...they are prone to damp, how good is the render on the outside? or how good is the mortar? There is no cavirty... personally if i was asked to do a job like that, I would use sand and cement. No british gypsum product is waterproof. Also people tend to dab it with insulated plasterboards or batton it out. you could then bond and skim it." https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/plasterboard-on-one-wall-face-and-bonding-coat-on-the-other.383114/ "You've to be careful somtimes dot and dabbing onto a single brick wall. The same applies to using bonding or hardwall plaster. Providing you know there is "definitely" no chance of damp/moisture penetrating through the single brick from the outside, it'll probably be ok, but give the brick wall a sand and cement scratch coat first. Use a "measured amount of WATERPROOFER" in the mix. Make the scratch coat: 4 to 1,,,, (4 of sand, 1 of cement) + the WATERPROOFER. Better to get someone who knows the job, to do it. Another good way for you to go would be to scratch coat, and then batten the wall, put in some insulation between the battens, then plasterboard the wall with 12.5, foil backed plasterboard. That's the way i'd go on a wall like that."

There are plenty of wireless systems for general use but perhaps see... https://plumbbox.co.uk/product/mains-switch-rf-solution-alternative-to-cabling/

Starting at the WC end.. I've looked at your drawings and I don't think the fames come with a straight pan connector pipe. I think they all come with the black right angle pipe as per @Onoffs photo. Check that first. So I think you might need something like this one but I'm not sure if that's the right type for frame mounting.. https://hertsplumbingsupplies.co.uk/toilet-spares/813-geberit-90mm-90mm-hdpe-straight-connector-for-wc-frames-366887161-4025416030232.html Also not sure if that's 110mm at the left hand end? Then it looks like you will need a bend around 35 degrees downwards like one of these.. then in the horizontal run insert a "Triple Socket 92 Degree Soil Branch Tee" like one of these. The curve injecting water in the direction of the flow. Then 110mm pipe for the horizontal run and another of those Tee branches in the vertical stack. If the stack can't be lifted to insert it into the Socket of the Tee you may need to cut out a bigger section and use a slip coupling. I've shown solvent weld versions but similar push fit exist if you prefer. Its hard to be certain about the 35 Degree bend. Might need a length of pipe between it and the Tee in the horizontal run. It's a case of it being easier to work out when you are on site. If you do then the bend needs to have two sockets not one of each.

According to an Amazon Q&A the external dims of the L32 are.. 159mm long x 114mm wide x 35mm deep. Scale up a photo to that size in with a cad program or even MS Word then read off the internal dims.

Perhaps Google smart mirrors.

I've built an Arduino based data logger to record outdoor temperatures and what my oil boiler is doing (run times) so I can work out roughly how much energy my house uses. I don't have much data yet but it looks like over the past month (two cold and two mild weeks?) the boiler has been firing for 25% of the time. Means the heat loss and DHW consumption averaged about 9kW. Can anyone suggest interesting ways to munge and graph the data in excel?

In theory you don't even need to wait for them to formally reject it before appealing. If the letter from the planning officer is just an opinion not a formal rejection letter you can appeal for non-determination as they are over the time limit.

@JAS-Build said the neighbours was supportive.

Think I would reply asking him to refer it to the Planning Committee. Repeat the sentiment expressed in the above paragraph in the letter and point out that the Parish and neighbours are happy and tell him it would be your intention to appeal if the application is refused. It wouldn't be unreasonable to copy the Chair of the Planning Committee and/or your Councillor with the letter and perhaps include your best rendering to remind him of the proposal.

If that was mine I'd drain and refill system several times and make sure there was the right concentration of corrosion inhibitor in it.

Which way is south? As I recall the 45 degree rule is/was an attempt to recognise the Right To Light Act without all the complications implied by the Act. The Act still stands and can trump planning permission but its complex to enforce. Have you checked through the tech guide on permitted development?.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance You might be allowed a 3m two storey extension under permitted development (no planning permission required) but see the 7m from a fence rule on Page 21.

I guess it depends how well or if it was really hidden. Sounds like you could see the blockwork under the caravan and through a window? Didn't they claim the blockwork was originally to repair heat/fire damage to the caravan rather than to turn it into a building? Would that stand up or is it obviously more than that?

My earlier reply was before I'd read the Appeal Decision. Now that I have I partly dissagree with @IanR sorry. Paragraph 32 makes clear the building itself is immune from enforcement... Note that "immune from enforcement action under section 171B(1)" means its immune full stop. B(1) details grounds for immunity not grounds under which enforcement can be made. So the building itself is lawful. He then goes on to consider if there has been an unlawful change of use to "Residential use". In para 38 an 39 he does suggest how the planners could try and have another go at preventing Residential Use. This feels optimistic to me as I mentioned above but I note he does say there is case law to support it. So I guess the question is.. Is it worth preventing Residential Use if the building itself is lawful? And would it be easy for the owner to prove there had been change of use?

That's a bit optimistic in my opinion. The general rules are they have 4 years to enforce most cases, that's B1, but 10 years for most change of use, that's B(3). However B(2) introduces a special case in that when the change of use is to a single dwelling they only have 4 years. Perhaps to minimise hardship if someone is forced to demolish after such a long time? The argument made by the planners above appears to be an attempt to use the exact wording of the legislation rather than its intent. They are trying to claim B(2) doesn't apply, not because it isnt a single dwelling, but because their might not have been a change of use. I'm afraid I very much doubt the planners would win that at appeal.

You mention there are two bits of roof. Would the rafters in the other bit be shorter than 4m? If so you can use same size for both pitches. If the other bit needs longer rafters there might be other calculations for that.

Others can probably do a better job but.. He's been working out the size of rafters you need. He assumes they are about 4m long in the title. The next bit is the load they need to carry allowing for things like: Weight of materials, normal loads, an allowance for someone up there doing maintenance and for solar panels. In the table he assumes the rafters will be 0.4m centres. He concludes by checking that rafters 47mm * 150mm C24 will be ok. The C24 bit is the timber grade.

Add a porch on the front? Might need heating or pipe heaters to prevent freezing.

Just a heads up.. toughened glass can easily shatter so important not to rest the glass on a concrete or tiled floor or any grit that might cause a stress point. Mounting brackets come with compliant washers so you dont put point loads on the glass.

Many glass companies can supply frameless shower panels complete with fixing holes for two or three wall mounting brackets and a floor channel.. example bracket.. 8mm glass is fine. Ours sits in a chrome plated U shape channel stuck to the flat top of our showers tray with some sort of adhesive (CT1?). Been solid for 13 years.

Yes. If the first transaction is a lease rather than a sale it looses its zero rating for VAT. It a quirk of the system. Its the difference between "zero rated" (for new build) and "exempt" (lease)... https://www.isurv.com/info/390/features/11494/taxation_vat_costs_of_building_to_rent It might pay to sell it to a relative who let's it out. The stamp duty payable would be less than the VAT.

If it turns out you can't sell it don't rush to rent it out or you will have to repay the VAT.