Temp

No CIL in your area?

Yeah that sounds reasonable as well.

Perhaps replace the existing pump with two, each feeding just one manifold.

PS There are funny rules for non-resident landlords if that's relevant.

Does it have to be France? Belgium has zero CGT so one option would be to rent somewhere in Belgium and become resident there (get a residents card). Sell UK House and any other assets liable to CGT. File UK and Belgian tax return claiming double taxation relief. Then after say a year move to France. You can't move back to the UK for 5 years I think. It's important not to move back into a house in the UK that you previously had a connection to or HMRC will argue you wernt really non-resident. Your intention at the outset matters. So beware making plans that betray your real intention.

I have a different make of manifold that uses a three port TRV. I originally questioned the need for a store to manifold pump. Supplier said one was needed because they couldn't guarantee the manifold loop pump would draw water from the store when the TRV was half open. I was surprised as obviously the resistance in the floor loops should be a lot higher than in the short 22mm run from store to manifold. PS My concern about fitting a pump was that it would stir the store when the TRV were recirculating. To make matters worse my electrician wired this pump on permanantly! I've two manifolds and ended up making an OR gate from relay so that it was only turned on when one was calling for heat. PPS May need a bypass as well. In case rooms call for heat turning on the pump but both TRV are shut/recycling.

Looks cool. The way I would do it in Fusion 360 (or any other cad) is to design one dimple then use the pattern tool to create a grid of dimples. It's the same tool used to make a line or rectangular pattern of identical holes.

They have no right of appeal.

Don't volunteer an overage clause. If you make an offer to purchase subject to getting planning permission you shouldn't need one. If you get planning permission you pay the agreed price. If you don't get planning permission you don't buy it. When would an overage clause kick in? An overage clause might put off a future buyer who might want to build an extension should you ever need to sell up. Is there is a risk the seller could pull out after you spend money getting planning perhaps? The answer to that is an "option to purchase contract". That gives you the right but not the obligation to buy atcan agree price for a fixed period of say 18 or 24 months. Long enough to get planning permission and appeal if necessary.

Are these the switches that stop the mixer turning on after after a power cut? What was your solution?

Only for a little while ?

or just remember V=IR P=IV and work the rest out in your head ?

+1 to @ProDave I would recommend your in-laws just buy the land from the neighbour so he's not involved in anything else. Last thing you want is him changing his mind at some awkward point or dropping down dead and a beneficiary turning up and deciding he wants a bigger share of the profit or 101 other ways it could go pear shaped. I think it would be hard to borrow any money needed with multiple parties involved.

Is it possible the neon is fooling the IR monitor or does it feel that hot to the touch?

Gosh I hate the text editor on the forum. It won't let me fix the bad formatting above. The missing reply to the above question says..

Google also found this but again Ive no experience of the provisions mentioned.. https://www.accountingweb.co.uk/any-answers/cgt-liability-for-armed-forces-personnel-without-o

Seek professional advice.. There is something called the Armed Forces Exemption but I'm not familiar with all the details. https://www.litrg.org.uk/tax-guides/savers-property-owners-and-other-tax-issues/capital-gains-tax/selling-your-home

And the admin costs of managing lots of small amounts woukd be high.

That's almost correct behaviour. When that happens the boiler is meant to temporarily shut off the burner to prevent overheating. But the boiler should already be doing that but in a different way. When the bypass opens the boiler return will get hotter, that will in turn cause the flow to get hotter. When it exceeds the max temperature set by the dial the boiler should turn its flame off temporarily. Instead for some reason its not doing that, it appears to be going into overheat and shuting down requiring a reset. The question is why is the normal mechanism not always working.

Sorry if you know this but.. Modulating Gas boilers can turn the flame power up and down to match demand when there are only small loads (eg just one UFH loop calling for heat). I don't think any consumer grade oil boilers can do this. The flame is either fully ON or OFF. The "temperature dial" on an oil boiler (at least on my Grant) appears to set the maximum flow temperature during cycling. So when there is a small load what happens is... 1) The load stat calls for heat. 2) Boiler fires up the burner and pump. 3) Output and return temperatures start rising. 4) When the flow reaches the temperature set on the dial it (should) switch off the flame but leave the pump running. 5) Flow temperature starts falling. 6) At some point the boiler decides to fire up the flame again. Go to 3). 7) Only when the all loads are satisfied does the boiler turn itself and the pump off. If you monitor the flow temperature over time you can see it rising and falling as it cycles around 3-6. Ideally these cycles should not be too fast because that's like driving a car in stop-start traffic. On the other hand If/when you have a heavy load it is possible the burner may run for long periods without the temperature ever quite reaching that set on the boiler dial. In this situation the boiler fires up when called by the load and keeps burning until the load is satisfied (eg no cycling). This is the most efficient mode but it can take some work to make it operate like this. The load has to be big enough, the pump speed just right etc. So something is causing your boiler to overheat when its cycling. Ideally get an engineer to check it really is overheating not a faulty over temperature sensor. I would check that when its cycling, and the flame goes off, the pump continues to run? Perhaps the pump is having problems starting when only the bypass is open? Could be tricky to diagnose. Turning down the dial on the boiler may help but its not ideal because it makes cycling more likely. More likely to occur when it need not. To answer the question above. I think increasing the burner power would most likely make things worse. It would reach the dial temperature sooner making cycling faster. Perhaps increase oportunities to overheat? We actually went the other way and fitted smaller jets which Grant say improves efficiency a few%. This allowed me to eliminate cycling when feeding our thermal store but that's a long story that wouldn't apply to your set up. I wouldn't change the jets yet.

I'd be looking at the biggest you can. Probably a 4kW array unless you already have a three phase supply to the house. That's about 16 x 250W panels taking 26sqm. I can't really comment on prices as I'm out of date but have seen DIY kits advertised for around £1500. More if you want installation. I think all the subsidised feed in tarrifs have ended replaced by some companies offering a feed in rate. I think it pays to use as much as you can yourself. Perhaps fit a kit that diverts excess generation to an immersion heater element if your DHW tank is below max temperature. Think some here have a battery.

We also have a Grant Oil fired boiler although ours heats a TS which feeds UFH so it behaves differently. I don't think your boiler should shut down totally in the situation you describe. It should just cycle. Eg it should turn the flame off leaving the pump running until the flow temperature falls again. I wonder if the pump is turning off when it shouldnt? You could try turning down the dial on the boiler. This will make it cycle more but might avoid it getting so hot it locks up. Don't turn it down too much, you want it as high as possible without lockup occuring.

You're probably correct. I've only seen the normal ones.

As I recall these dimmers have a mechanical push on/push off so can't be a spike in the mains causing it. My guess is this circuit has been connected to the switched live in the hall rather than permanant live? Something like that.

We have 80mm insulation and wish we fitted more. If building again I would go for 150mm or more. On a retrofit 100mm might be OK if there are height issues but not ideal. Some BCO insist on a structural concrete slab under everything but if you have well compacted hardcore I don't think its needed Ufh in screed Poly sheet to retain water in screed Insulation DPM Sand blind 150mm well compacted hardcore. If the hardcore is very coarse I'd suggest putting a finer layer on top and compact again.