Temp

What do your planning conditions say? I think these optional sections are normally mandated for a percentage of houses on larger developments in the planning grant.

Our SE specified 14N blocks in some highly loaded places.

https://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/deanta-ely-prefinished-half-1l-glazed-interior-oak-door-2040-x-726-x-40mm-40elygcx726fsc.html https://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/xl-joinery-suffolk-original-suffolk-unfinished-internal-fire-door-with-clear-glass.html

Search this site for FD30. https://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/ .. they have some from JD Kind , XL Joinery and others that are FD30 with glass. Not all cheap mind.. https://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/jb-kind-oak-glazed-fuji-internal-fire-door.html https://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/jb-kind-traditional-12-6vm-oak-pre-finished-internal-fire-door.html https://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/deanta-bury-prefinished-oak-glazed-fd30-door-1981-x-686-x-45mm-45nm4gf/dx686fsc.html https://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/deanta-seville-prefinished-glazed-interior-oak-fire-door.html

Welcome to the forum @Foggy

OK OK I take it back ?

Those big blocks would need good access for something like a forklift, telehandler or crane with forklift hooks. +1 to what @Declan52 used. Ask if they have a design guide or design service. Perhaps not but worth asking.

Not sure CT1 without a channel would look neat. We have ours in a channel glued down to the top of a tray. Looks OK been solid 13 years.

Not quite sure how "zero subsidy" is defined but its not hard to find details of both onshore and offshore projects that claim to be subsidy free. Think the first was in 2017?

Good catch. Form just says the spreadsheet should be in the same order as the receipts are filed.

You can use a spreadsheet if you use the same headings as their paper forms and attach to the first few pages of questions. Receipts should be in date order. Many of us numbered receIpts and added a receipt number column to the spreadsheet. I also used plastic ring binder sleeves to hold them. Some small receipts were stapled to a sheet of paper with any explanatory notes. Eg where the receipt wasmt clear or it included chocolate or other items not allowed.

Welcome to the forum. House looks good.

We have UFH under our bed and don't notice it. It's a slatted bed base with regular mattress on top.

Double checking I see that one is 90mm at the left hand end. So I think you need this one.. https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/geberit-hdpe-duofix-straight-connector-110mm/ Which fits a 90mm pan on the right and a 110mm push fit socket on the left. That means you want one of these 135mm bends instead of the solvent weld bend.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-135-single-socket-bend-grey-110mm/13199?tc=IB6&ds_kid=92700055281954505&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAiAz--OBhBIEiwAG1rIOgkYNciguvpRgG1ukkO_cpXMMHhDBGvLrYQgsFAaSlKSmlgv_nsPORoCHWQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds That might mean using push fit rather than solvent weld for the other parts as I don't think you can mix and match

Normally a stand pipe produces a pretty impressive flow rate. What did your builders use for mixing mortar etc? Did they turn it off when they finished? https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-universal-stopcock-key-920mm/71652

To qualify for class Q they must be (and have been) in agricultural use for 10 years I think. You must read up on what counts as agricultural use. Check Google Street View and the like doesn't help the planners refuse your application.

There is bound to be a YouTube video or 10 showing how to install and set up a Freesat/sky dish. Wasn't hard to replace mine. I used a meter and short lead to connect it to the LNB at the dish to max out the signal. https://www.toolstation.com/proception-dvbt-and-satellite-finder-meters/p44578?store=K1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dt&pcrid=565612566369&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAiArOqOBhBmEiwAsgeLmdhKOpjZDTPLRdnyCmvBd0Q7sZkip2GfT5JttpEpnr_YyYXesz9-SRoCp78QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I've no experience with Hardwall and single skin brick. Is it rendered outside? Google finds comments recommending sand and cement instead. Personally I would be fitting internal wall insulation. I doubt PVA is the best to seal with either if there is any damp. https://www.plasterersforum.com/threads/hardwall-on-external-walls.37045/ "i rang british gypsum today to confirm what i already knew. they told me that you can use hardwall on solid 9" external walls only if they are dry, hardwall did replace renovation plaster as they were basiclly the same. they also recommend dri coat for solid walls that have had a damp course injection." "ya but the problem is there solid walls...they are prone to damp, how good is the render on the outside? or how good is the mortar? There is no cavirty... personally if i was asked to do a job like that, I would use sand and cement. No british gypsum product is waterproof. Also people tend to dab it with insulated plasterboards or batton it out. you could then bond and skim it." https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/plasterboard-on-one-wall-face-and-bonding-coat-on-the-other.383114/ "You've to be careful somtimes dot and dabbing onto a single brick wall. The same applies to using bonding or hardwall plaster. Providing you know there is "definitely" no chance of damp/moisture penetrating through the single brick from the outside, it'll probably be ok, but give the brick wall a sand and cement scratch coat first. Use a "measured amount of WATERPROOFER" in the mix. Make the scratch coat: 4 to 1,,,, (4 of sand, 1 of cement) + the WATERPROOFER. Better to get someone who knows the job, to do it. Another good way for you to go would be to scratch coat, and then batten the wall, put in some insulation between the battens, then plasterboard the wall with 12.5, foil backed plasterboard. That's the way i'd go on a wall like that."

There are plenty of wireless systems for general use but perhaps see... https://plumbbox.co.uk/product/mains-switch-rf-solution-alternative-to-cabling/

Starting at the WC end.. I've looked at your drawings and I don't think the fames come with a straight pan connector pipe. I think they all come with the black right angle pipe as per @Onoffs photo. Check that first. So I think you might need something like this one but I'm not sure if that's the right type for frame mounting.. https://hertsplumbingsupplies.co.uk/toilet-spares/813-geberit-90mm-90mm-hdpe-straight-connector-for-wc-frames-366887161-4025416030232.html Also not sure if that's 110mm at the left hand end? Then it looks like you will need a bend around 35 degrees downwards like one of these.. then in the horizontal run insert a "Triple Socket 92 Degree Soil Branch Tee" like one of these. The curve injecting water in the direction of the flow. Then 110mm pipe for the horizontal run and another of those Tee branches in the vertical stack. If the stack can't be lifted to insert it into the Socket of the Tee you may need to cut out a bigger section and use a slip coupling. I've shown solvent weld versions but similar push fit exist if you prefer. Its hard to be certain about the 35 Degree bend. Might need a length of pipe between it and the Tee in the horizontal run. It's a case of it being easier to work out when you are on site. If you do then the bend needs to have two sockets not one of each.

According to an Amazon Q&A the external dims of the L32 are.. 159mm long x 114mm wide x 35mm deep. Scale up a photo to that size in with a cad program or even MS Word then read off the internal dims.

Perhaps Google smart mirrors.

I've built an Arduino based data logger to record outdoor temperatures and what my oil boiler is doing (run times) so I can work out roughly how much energy my house uses. I don't have much data yet but it looks like over the past month (two cold and two mild weeks?) the boiler has been firing for 25% of the time. Means the heat loss and DHW consumption averaged about 9kW. Can anyone suggest interesting ways to munge and graph the data in excel?

In theory you don't even need to wait for them to formally reject it before appealing. If the letter from the planning officer is just an opinion not a formal rejection letter you can appeal for non-determination as they are over the time limit.

@JAS-Build said the neighbours was supportive.