Temp

We also have a Grant Oil fired boiler although ours heats a TS which feeds UFH so it behaves differently. I don't think your boiler should shut down totally in the situation you describe. It should just cycle. Eg it should turn the flame off leaving the pump running until the flow temperature falls again. I wonder if the pump is turning off when it shouldnt? You could try turning down the dial on the boiler. This will make it cycle more but might avoid it getting so hot it locks up. Don't turn it down too much, you want it as high as possible without lockup occuring.

You're probably correct. I've only seen the normal ones.

As I recall these dimmers have a mechanical push on/push off so can't be a spike in the mains causing it. My guess is this circuit has been connected to the switched live in the hall rather than permanant live? Something like that.

We have 80mm insulation and wish we fitted more. If building again I would go for 150mm or more. On a retrofit 100mm might be OK if there are height issues but not ideal. Some BCO insist on a structural concrete slab under everything but if you have well compacted hardcore I don't think its needed Ufh in screed Poly sheet to retain water in screed Insulation DPM Sand blind 150mm well compacted hardcore. If the hardcore is very coarse I'd suggest putting a finer layer on top and compact again.

Yeah I must get around to rewiring ours.

+1 Should be in parallel with the lights.

We have an outdoor one that does this sort of thing. We just leave it in PIR mode as its a pain to remember the magic sequence of flicking the switch to change modes.

Slightly OT.. I recently built a small amp with my son using one of these boards... https://www.tinyosshop.com/tsa7800b At normal listening volumes the sound quality is pretty impressive. Well at least I was impressed. The specs suggest a lot of distortion exists at max power but that's way more than he will use it for. We went with that board so my son could play around with DSP. The board supports the SigmaStudio app for PC allowing him to experiment with digital filters. It's got Bluetooth and stereo phono input and 2+1 outputs. Currently connected to some old Creative speakers from a retired PC sound system and a bass speaker he designed himself on work experience last summer. We used a totally inappropriate switch mode power supply but seems to work fine. He's studying Acoustical Engineering and currently trying to find an industrial placement where he can do some design/DSP/Python/C++. Most of the companies offering places seem to specialise in Environmental monitoring.

Thing is I'm not always there when a delivery occurs. I've heard it's possible to put say 900L into a customers tank then put the nozzle into the tankers filler and pump 100L through the meter back into the tanker. Generating a receipt for the 1000L ordered.. Then at the end of the day the driver put 100L or whatever he's creamed off into his own tank on the way back to the yard. Perhaps it can'/tdoesn't happen but I'd like more confidence.

Problem is most modern plastic tanks are bunded so not easy to measure the internal dimensions. This also relies on you knowing the starting level. I dipped my tank 10 days ago and calculated 1500 l would just fit in. 1500L delivered today. Dipped tank again and surprised at how low the level is. Just annoys me I can't measure it more accurately.

Yes an integrating flow meter. I was thinking of something mounted in a tube that fits into the neck of the tank so there is still a pipe for the oilman to stick his nozzle into.

Several times over the past 13 years I've been suspicious that we've not had all the heating oil we paid for actually delivered. Does anyone sell a gauge that fits in the neck of the tank that measures whats actually put in the tank?

Is your architect proposing to use a Quantity Surveyor to work out the likely build cost? If so then it might be reasonable to charge something to provide the information and support the QS needs. But the QS isn't cheap and if this is done at all its normally done later when more detailed drawings have been made.

https://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/news/vat-reclaim-its-your-money/

Another thread on this here..

Another appeal allowed where the rear projection of the dining room was only 0.3m. http://www.permitteddevelopment.org/Appeal-Decision-157.php

Here is a case that went the other way (they deemed it NOT to be a side extension). However see the footnote.. http://www.permitteddevelopment.org/Appeal-decision-106.php

Just for reference here is a relevant Appeal Decision here supports the planners rejection in relation to it being a side extension of the dining room. In this case the projection was a small store they planned to demolish... https://modgov.lbbd.gov.uk/Internet/documents/s119272/Appeal decision - 23 Mill Lane.pdf

There are some rated for 750C briefly and 650C continuously.. https://www.rawlinspaints.com/up-to-750 eg.. https://www.rawlinspaints.com/home/metal-paints/heat-resistant-paints/8017-rust-oleum-heat-resistant-paint-750°c-aerosols.html Even 800C for short periods.. https://www.rawlinspaints.com/home/metal-paints/metal-primers-and-undercoats/1861-international-interplate-937.html but why?

Yes we have no cracks anywhere except where the screed in two rooms meet at a doorway.

Yes and possibly the start capacitor C1. A5 has live and neutral so a short there would cause overcurrent. If A5 or C1 is faulty the compressor motor may not start start running and that can cause low torque and over current.

+1 Don't change it until that's been shown to be the problem. I was just looking to see if it was even possible.

Remember to check the VAT rules.. Scenario 1: The annex would be standard rated unless it can be seperately occupied to the bungalow (eg the planners accept it can be sold off as a separate dwelling). Demolishing the bungalow under a separate planning application. The guidance says all existing buildings on the site should be removed to be eligible for zero rating. Now I've heard they might allow a garage to be retained but yours would be a habitable building. They might argue the bungalow is just a big annex to the existing dwelling above the garage. Scenario 2: This appears to be eligible for zero rating.

@Jamier Have you seen this.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/158/additional_storeysextending_upwards

We can't answer that. If its using a resistance heater instead of the compressor it might work but cost you three times as much to run. Might also wear out the resistance heater faster.