Temp

Ill go back to sleep ?

The technical guide isn't clear if the following is PDR.. I suspect they will argue that its still a side extension as its to the right of the red line which counts as a side wall of the original house. In that case it fails because its wider than half the width of the original house.

That's correct. I assume this bit is part of the original house... From the Technical Guide.. I don't think the conservatory really changes anything.

Yeah sorry I was rushing to go out. Got two teenagers needing PCR tests ?

OK so it wasn't a Planning Application it was an application for a Certificate of Lawfulness to determine if Planning Permission was required. I'm pretty sure we could have told you that would be refused because of the rules in here.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/830643/190910_Tech_Guide_for_publishing.pdf Specifically page 22 which defines "side walls" There might be other reasons why they think you need Planning Permission. However all this refusal means is you need to actually apply for Planning Permission.

The detailed dimensions depend on if it has to be a Category 1 "visitable house" or Category 2 "Accessible and adaptable dwelling". Think that depends on your planning permission . Cat 1 is less onerous than Cat 2. I think the following meet most of Category 2. Minimum clear opening width 850mm so likely to be an 900mm wide door minimum. (775mm and 800mm door for cat 1). A flat square 1500 x 1500 outside the door (1200 x 1200 cat 1). A ramp/path 1200mm wide. Slope depends on the height but they suggest between 1:12 and 1:20. If you keep it below 1:20 you can go up 500mm in one go over 10m . Steeper ramps like 1:12 is limited to 166mm over 2m before you need "resting places". There is a chart in Part M page 12. If any of that not possible then you have to look at the details of Approved Doc Part M.

This is the sort of thing that can look good. Effectively an area of the garden is raised to hide the ramp..

The issue is there are two areas of screed that meet with a narrow strip at the doorway. Bit like a figure 8. The two areas shrink towards their own centres which puts stress where they meet. If the whole floor had been screeded as one before the internal walls were built it probably wouldn't be an issue but that's rarely possible. Here is what ours looked like. The doorway runs top to bottom with no actual door fitted.

The bit you quoted appears to explain why planning permission might be needed but doesn't actually give a reason(s) for rejection. Can you post the whole rejection letter with address and planning ref redacted if you like.

Can you post a before and after floor plan as I'm having problems following the description. The one you posted doesn't appear to show the existing conservatory or the proposed extension so is it the before or after?

We had exactly same issue except the cracks propagated through the stone floor on top. I've posted on here a few times about it and recommend an expansion gap (aka deliberate straight crack) at doorways. As @nod said its just regular shrinkage. Pretty small percentage if you think about it. Just 1mm over the span of a room. Near impossible to avoid.

Cold air can't hold as much water vapour as warm air so outside air in winter is quite dry. Many people get dry skin issues in winter. Any form of ventilation allows that dry air in to replace the warmer more humid air indoors. Its a balancing act. Not enough ventilation and you get stuffy air and condensation, too much and it can be a bit dry in winter. We turn our air flow rates up and down at different times the year.

Offcially you probably don't need to make a Building Control Application (unless changing the drains or possibly DIY electrics) but you should really aim to adhere to the Building Regulations to help minimise issues if you sell up. I would avoid making an application if you can because BCO sometimes insist on foundations below internal walls, eg not just bearing on the slab. Other times.. https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/6179005/advice-on-changing-part-of-garage-to-a-utility-room

To meet Building Regs you may have to raise the floor level. They require either a sloping floor to the garage or a 100mm step up where garage meets house. This is to stop fuel leaking from a car running under the door. I'm not sure a stud wall would be acceptable either. Might have to be blockwork between utility and garage?

One trick is to have a long winding path/ramp upto the front door with a step off the side for able bodies to take a short cut. Looks a lot less industrial than a short ramp.

OK as a check try measuring the kitchen flow rate again while another tap is running elsewhere in the house. Do they still add up to 10L/min. You also need to know the static pressure to make an informed choice on solutions.

+1 If building again I would go for a warm roof with most of the insulation above the rafters. Downside - long fixings needed. Builders don't have experience. Upside - much easier to make the insulation layer airtight (no gaps) Will need counter battens under the tile battens.

How/where are you measuring it?

The flow rate available from an electric shower depends on the power rating of the shower (in kW) and the temperature of the incoming and out going water. So it's slightly lower in winter than summer and you get a higher flow rate if you turn the output temperature down. All things being equal a higher power (more kW) will deliver a higher flow rate. So if I saw a claim like "30% extra flow" I'd want to know they were comparing like with like and how they justify that claim. Edit: This assumes the flow isn't limited by the mains !

In case it's not obvious you can normally do something like meters 1,4,7,10,13,16 etc all at the same time. Then do 2,5,8,11,14,17 etc at the same time. In three or four iterations (not 25) you have done it all. I haven't read your whole thread but did you get a ground condition report done? Test pit etc Have you exposed the existing foundations to see how deep they are? Ask the BCO for his view pointing out the building has been there 10+years with no movement and you aren't increasing the loading?

I'd just apply. Wouldn't mention the building line. Would cite house 5 as a similar local example. Planners sometimes like extensions to be subservient to the main house and this can be easier to build as you don't have to touch the existing roof/verge.

As I recall they are only needed in walls over 11m long. Thought they were normally put in the middle of the wall. We have one. Looks like its sealed with a foam sheet similar to perimeter insulation used around concrete floors.

Santa wouldn't demand you carry out a flying reindeer survey on the 26th of December.

If there is no air lock, flow rates are ok and flow and return temperature are similar to other rooms then I think it can only be an issue with the installation. Is the return temperature similar to other loops? Higher? Lower?

Take the chipboard up, insulate, lay WBP (two layers staggered joints?), seal according to tile adhesive makers instructions, UFH, tiles. Floor must be rigid enough for tiling contractor to warranty his work so discuss thickness of WBP with him.