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I think I would write to them again asking for access stating that if not granted you have been advised you can apply for an access order under the act, together with costs for the work and legal expenses, which if not paid may be collected by a County Court judgement and ultimately seizure and sale of property by bailiffs. Spell it all out. Then say if access is granted you will cover all costs. If they agree get the supply split and leave theirs turned off. Another option might be to offer to purchase their flat at a knock down price due to the problem.

I believe you have a right of access to repair pipes.. https://www.mylawyer.co.uk/going-onto-your-neighbours-land-a-A76076D34458/ http://www.problemneighbours.co.uk/rights-under-access-to-neighbouring-land-act.html

Wet UFH and two towel rails fed from a thermal store. The towel rads are on a basic time clock but we also put a pipe stat on the return pipe. The latter just stops the pump to the towel rads running all the time and stops our thermal store being stirred more than necessary.

The width is normally determined by the load bearing capability of the ground. Did you have a soil condition report done?

When we did ours some years ago you could ask the till staff for a VAT receipt and they would write one on a pad for you. Others have just sent till receipts sometimes stapled to a sheet of paper with the companies VAT number on it. I think I would print out emailed receipts if you have them and staple the till receipt to that. Send both.

According to one of the comparison sites both the Coop and Octapus are still offering 24 month fixed deals at 24p/kwh and 25p/day. That's a fair bit more than I'm paying now but a lot less than the 30p/kWH being predicted from April. I must be missing something.

What size are the floor joists going to be? If you know that you can use span tables to work out the max allowed unsupported span. This ignores the issue of them sinking into the ground though. If you decide to use fewer blocks than option 1 then don't do option 2! Put the rows of blocks the other way so that every joist has three blocks under it. As currently drawn some joists have 4 blocks and some have none at all.

I would try the engineer that did the previous one. He can probably just reissue/reassign the previous one to you for a modest fee rather than the full cost. Try asking Building Control if they have a record of it?

If we assume 2.4m ceiling height that's a volume of about 468 m^3. 60L/S is about 216 m^3 per hour. So the ACH works out at around 216/468 = 0.5 ACH. https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/how-much-ventilation-do-i-need-my-home-improve-indoor-air-quality To achieve 0.35 ACH you could reduce the flow rate to 60*0.35/0.5 = 40L/S 15 cubic feet per min is about 7 L/S. So 40L/S would be ok for 5-6 people. It would seem that's OK.

Photos in here and your comments suggest its the wrong way around.. https://www.beneathheat.co.uk/uploads/1518187003_Beneathheat Installation Guide 2017 Proof.pdf I doubt it will affect the efficiency of the system but it might affect the life of the loop actuators and noise if any.

I put Fernox F1 in our oil fired UFH system. I think sludge from corrosion products is less with UFH than rads but still don't want it.

I reckon it will be OK.

Think you might be confusing units... I think the recommended level of air tightness on a pressure test is ideally below 3 m3/(m2*h) measured at some pressure which I forget. The ACH figure is what your MVHR is designed and set to deliver. I think its normally less than 1ACH. Passive houses 0.7 ACH I think? So I think you have it set too high in the spreadsheet. Someone else can correct me if I have those numbers wrong.

If you don't have expansion gaps in screed at doorways I would use some sort of isolation mat before tiling. It's not enough just to have a gap in the tiles because any crack in the screed most likely won't be straight, it can curve into one room or the other.

Are building control are involved? If so best not tell them that the new render has insulating properties as they may want the upgrade to meet better standards than can be achieved without EWI or IWI.

I think Quinetic claim to be the first with battery less switces?

+1 I was really replying to the original question about choosing a gas boiler.

I don't think there are any building regs issues other than the height of the floor.

I don't think it makes sense to put hydrogen into gas until the electricity grid is using as much renewable energy as possible.

Nearly all gas boilers can run on a mix of hydrogen and gas as well. My guess is that _if_ hydrogen is used at all it will be just a few percent perhaps increasing over many decades like we have done with E10 biofuel.

The installation instructions appear to be online.

Normal recommendation is to allow about 1 day per mm thickness. Think you are at about 45 days? How thick is it in the bathroom and can you remember if the screed was very wet when it went down?

If planning to replace with a larger building make sure you have applied for and received the CIL exemption for self builders. Starting work before you have that can mean loosing the exemption.

The electrician should check to avoid drilling into joists when planning exactly where the spots will go. If he has any sense he will have taken photos or marked a plan previously. When he drills the plasterboard it doesn't usually damage the wire because the wire moves offering no resistance. That and a bit if care is usually sufficient. Then he reaches through the hole to find the wire.

Welcome to the forum. I'm not an expert on insulating render but there are limits on how effective any thin insulation can be due to the basic properties of materials. Aerogel is expensive and not easily incorporated. PIR is probably second only to Aerogel and typically 50-60mm is needed used to achieve only reasonable u-values. If building again I'd be looking at 100mm+. So don't expect miracles from any render alone. Is it a cavity wall or solid wall?