Temp

To meet Building Regs you may have to raise the floor level. They require either a sloping floor to the garage or a 100mm step up where garage meets house. This is to stop fuel leaking from a car running under the door. I'm not sure a stud wall would be acceptable either. Might have to be blockwork between utility and garage?

One trick is to have a long winding path/ramp upto the front door with a step off the side for able bodies to take a short cut. Looks a lot less industrial than a short ramp.

OK as a check try measuring the kitchen flow rate again while another tap is running elsewhere in the house. Do they still add up to 10L/min. You also need to know the static pressure to make an informed choice on solutions.

+1 If building again I would go for a warm roof with most of the insulation above the rafters. Downside - long fixings needed. Builders don't have experience. Upside - much easier to make the insulation layer airtight (no gaps) Will need counter battens under the tile battens.

How/where are you measuring it?

The flow rate available from an electric shower depends on the power rating of the shower (in kW) and the temperature of the incoming and out going water. So it's slightly lower in winter than summer and you get a higher flow rate if you turn the output temperature down. All things being equal a higher power (more kW) will deliver a higher flow rate. So if I saw a claim like "30% extra flow" I'd want to know they were comparing like with like and how they justify that claim. Edit: This assumes the flow isn't limited by the mains !

In case it's not obvious you can normally do something like meters 1,4,7,10,13,16 etc all at the same time. Then do 2,5,8,11,14,17 etc at the same time. In three or four iterations (not 25) you have done it all. I haven't read your whole thread but did you get a ground condition report done? Test pit etc Have you exposed the existing foundations to see how deep they are? Ask the BCO for his view pointing out the building has been there 10+years with no movement and you aren't increasing the loading?

I'd just apply. Wouldn't mention the building line. Would cite house 5 as a similar local example. Planners sometimes like extensions to be subservient to the main house and this can be easier to build as you don't have to touch the existing roof/verge.

As I recall they are only needed in walls over 11m long. Thought they were normally put in the middle of the wall. We have one. Looks like its sealed with a foam sheet similar to perimeter insulation used around concrete floors.

Santa wouldn't demand you carry out a flying reindeer survey on the 26th of December.

If there is no air lock, flow rates are ok and flow and return temperature are similar to other rooms then I think it can only be an issue with the installation. Is the return temperature similar to other loops? Higher? Lower?

Take the chipboard up, insulate, lay WBP (two layers staggered joints?), seal according to tile adhesive makers instructions, UFH, tiles. Floor must be rigid enough for tiling contractor to warranty his work so discuss thickness of WBP with him.

We love our MVHR system. Air feels a lot fresher, no condensation anywhere, towels dry quickly. Only possible downside is dry air in winter but we don't find it a problem.

Do you mean she gets travel sick or catches a cold? Travel sick is caused by motion. Cold symptoms take 1-3 days to appear (more normally 2-3 days). You catch colds from other people not AC systems. Although I guess office AC may help spread colds if they recycle a lot of air. Not an issue for MVHR.

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/goods-and-services-you-can-claim-for-under-the-vat-diy-scheme Sheds are disallowable so don't call it that. Summer Houses aren't mentioned. Home office?... https://pjharchitecturalservices.co.uk/portfolio-item/self-build-vat-reclaim/ Would be nice to find another reference to confirm that.

Would you be allowed something like... Decorative cladding Fire barrier/SUPALUX Ventilated Cavity Panelvent DWD Timber frame Ventilated cavity would allow breathability but would that meet fire regs?

I think there are special renders approved for use below DPC but i've not used them.

Good catch. I thought it had to be done by a Vat registered builder. I can't edit my reply now or I would.

Where are you measuring the pressure? I think that suggests there is still a restriction somewhere in the system. The pressure should not drop that much down a 32mm pipe when when the flow rate is "1 tap". Check any valves are fully open including the main stopcock. If no problem found with those try and measure the pressure at the following two points both with nothing running and again with a tap open... 1) Near to the main in the road as possible. If this varies a lot with tap on/off then the problem is in the main not on your site. 2) Where the new 32mm pipe comes into the house. If 1) is constant and 2) varies a lot there might be a problem with new 32mm pipe or the meter or anything else in it. Small stone? If 1) and 2) are both close to 2 bar and don't change when the tap is turned on/off the problem is in the house somewhere.

Firstly they MUST charge you 5% on labor and any materials they supply (eg the electrician if he supplies wire). If they charge you 20% your claim may be rejected by HMRC. You cannot reclaim VAT incorrectly paid. HMRC can tell you to go back to the contractor for it. Officially you don't need to give them a letter they should just do it. The letter is actually a certificate and you can write it yourself. I think officially only charities need to provide a certificate but it can help smooth a problem with a contractor if you give them one. There is a template in VAT708, section 18 about certificates. You may need to reword it a bit. PS: Any materials you buy in your name from a builders merchant will be charged at 20% and you can reclaim that. In some cases a contractor might be happier for you to buy materials and free issue them to him to fit. Particularly if he's not VAT registered.

How do the pipes connect to the rads? Diagonally opposite corners? Both in and out at the top?

You should also consider what implication their plans would have on any extension you might want to build.

Planning Permission is not a guarantee you can build the approved development. There can be a number of things that prevent you building what has been approved. I don't think the planners check you even own the land. They rely on you filling in the forms correctly regarding ownership. I'm a little surprised the builder didn't know about the gas main. When he purchased the bungalow his solicitor will have done searches and I think it should have shown up on those if not in the title deeds. I've not used this site but perhaps worth bookmarking... https://lsbud.co.uk/

An air lock is also a possibility. I think you can still have good flow rates with water flowing faster past the bubble.

Double check that the stat in that room controls the floor loop in that room. In our case the electrician had swapped two over so the stat in the cold room was actually controling the loop in a different room. That caused one room to go full hot and the other full cold. We only noticed the cold room. Once I figured it out what was wrong it was easy to swap the valve heads on the manifold. Perhaps you have same?