Temp

Normal recommendation is to allow about 1 day per mm thickness. Think you are at about 45 days? How thick is it in the bathroom and can you remember if the screed was very wet when it went down?

If planning to replace with a larger building make sure you have applied for and received the CIL exemption for self builders. Starting work before you have that can mean loosing the exemption.

The electrician should check to avoid drilling into joists when planning exactly where the spots will go. If he has any sense he will have taken photos or marked a plan previously. When he drills the plasterboard it doesn't usually damage the wire because the wire moves offering no resistance. That and a bit if care is usually sufficient. Then he reaches through the hole to find the wire.

Welcome to the forum. I'm not an expert on insulating render but there are limits on how effective any thin insulation can be due to the basic properties of materials. Aerogel is expensive and not easily incorporated. PIR is probably second only to Aerogel and typically 50-60mm is needed used to achieve only reasonable u-values. If building again I'd be looking at 100mm+. So don't expect miracles from any render alone. Is it a cavity wall or solid wall?

We have a 12mm step from the landing down into the bathroom. Hasn't caused any issues at all. We have a narrow strip of wood with a 45 degree chamfer on it at the transition.

I doubt it will be an issue on walls. We have a relatively low ceiling in our bathroom and have had mould on ceilings radiating out from the shower even with MVHR (but no extractor fan). Zinsser paint sorted the problem.

Be careful if looking at plots without any planning permission. You have to wonder why it doesn't have it. There are scammers about.

If possible try connecting the TV direct to the router. I don't think it will make a difference but rules out any issue in the switch.

+1 If the neighbour is happy with your plans you don't need a formal PWA agreement. I think there is a template letter they can sign to agree drawings. I wouldn't go offering any other deal as might complicate any insurance claim. Insurance companies dont like it when clients make offers before they get involved.

No but I think most (?) smart meters installed rely on 2G and cant use 4 or 5G at the moment. Anyway it looks like the smart meter program is going to have to pay to keep 2G going.. From that first link which @joth posted.. . So it looks like the smart meter program can insist 2G is continued until 2033 but they may have to pay for it to be maintained.

Works in politics as well ?

Vodaphone and O2 have did have a mast sharing deal. O2 errect and maintain masts in the East and Vodaphone the West of the country. Perhaps Vodaphone will sell their 2G masts to O2 or ?

Vodafone has announced it will switch off 3G by the end of 2023 and 2G by end of 2025. I thought most smart nevers needed one or the other so looks like many smart meters will need replacing or manual reading in just three years time?

Our stopped working after about 6 months. Turns out filter was blocked and it had blown a fuse in the speed control unit.

Talking of exploding... Got an email from Octapus today talking about 75% increases in electricity bills.

I had to use big square thick "washers"/plates to stop the heads and nuts being pulled in before the spike washers were seated. Once the spikes were in I replaced the big heavy plates with regular large round washers.

Where you want several lights, like along a driveway, I would find lights I like and use a separate dusk to dawn sensor and PIR if necessary. PIR needs careful planning if it's a long driveway. Eg you might want a sensor each end. Remote switch to over ride? Where up just want one light then something with built in dusk to dawn and/or PIR works. Our village doesn't have house number and delivery driver get fed up looking for houses so we have an illuminated sign in a seperate dusk to dawn sensor. Around our house we have 9 low level wall lights on a separate PIR with dawn to dusk sensor built in...

Yes. For an outbuilding I used spike washers between the rafters snd joists and coach bolts.

+1 to what @ProDave said. The ceiling joists should/must be connected to the bottom ends of rafters. Check the roof is properly triangulated. Also check the span and dimensions of the ceiling joists as the "decorative" beams that run parallel to the ridge appear to be supporting them?

All insulation has some smell when new. The volume of gas in insulation is pretty small compared to say the volume of your house and houses are typically ventilated so that the air is changed many times a day.

Welcome to the forum @Silver-Fox

A mixture is also a possibility. I'd put EPS on the bottom.

I don't think it will be any harder. Both approaches need similar number of pipes between the various parts.

I think Building regs specify 75mm ID (82mm OD?) as the minimum diameter for an SVP. Normally building control like there to be one open vent stack. If there are 3 stacks planned they like the furthest from the sewer to be open vented. If you have some internal pipework that is slightly further they don't usually worry about it.

That's probably the best solution. Put a 25-50mm sand blind below the DPM. Perimeter insulation around the edge before screed.