ragg987

Armacell Armaflex Sheet Insulation and a tin of their adhesive. Slightly fiddly to apply round pipe bends as you have to cut a circular shape, but 2 winters in and no issues at all. I used 19mm thick sheet, I think you can get away with less.

Are these the pipes going outside? That foil cover insulation was no good in my case, I tried double wrapping and closing all gaps with aluminium tape but it still filled with water through condensation after a few months.

Fabric first. It lasts for the life of the build, saving energy sun, rain or snow.

Singapore is a difference in culture. Here tower blocks tend to be associated with low cost housing, so the problems are more related to deprivation, poverty etc. In Singapore the ubiquitous HDB blocks are made for the majority of the population. They also build towers with amenities e.g. shops and food courts so they become a hub. Lots of "executive" towers are now appearing in our cities, I wonder if perceptions will change over time. As a note, we rented one of these executive flats for 6 months prior to moving into our new build. Quality of build and insulation leaves a lot to be desired.

We used these in all our bathrooms, work extremely well and very easy to clean. You need to buy a separate wall box for first fix so it is an expensive solution. https://www.qualitybath.com/hansgrohe-38118-wall-mounted-single-handle-faucet-trim-product-40907.htm You can also avoid scum by adding a water softener. Our kitchen taps are base mounted, but with soft water cleaning is easier.

We have three bathrooms. 1 has a window which is nice, another has a rooflight which is ok, and the third has no windows which also works fine. I made sure there was plenty of light so windows would not be missed from that perspective. Being able to see out is nice but not essential. The MVHR takes care of ventilation so windows are superfluous for ventilation purposes. The bonus of not having an window is that the bathroom cannot overheat in the summer.

I used theunderfloorsuperstore. They provided the design and supply for ufh, DHW and Ashp.

Ah good point my bad...

Could you not ask them to zero rate it under design and supply? Improved cash flow. Send them a copy of your planning approval of the new build as proof of eligibility.

If you have solar PV you might want to do those things in the daytime instead. No single right answer, for us the cheap tariffs would not save money. Timer for mobile phone may not be worthwhile, do check how much power they consume over 24hrs compared to charging mobile over 2 or 3 hrs then switching off.

When cold outside, the relative humidity (UK) is quite high, but when heated in the heat exchanger it drops. In the meantime the stale, warm and wet air on the house is cooled and so gets to saturation, hence condensation and water drains out. The enthalpy part will remove the moisture from extract and add to supply. Is it really needed? We don't have this, the relative humidity inside is between 40 to 50% and quite comfortable. Perhaps people with some skin conditions might benefit from higher humidity? Not sure.

Very nice, and just the perfect day to test the effect too. A bit of ageing and it should fit the aesthetic of the stone and slate around it. The fins seem quite wide - does it block out a lot of the light?

Hi and welcome. I'm nit sure what you are asking, so a couple of thoughts from me. Look at planning application in the last 5-10 years online - this will give you a feel for the type of applications, what was accepted and what was rejected. Our council removes some content from the portal after a period (I think approx 1 year) e.g. comments from public. Some of this should be available if you pop into your planning office. Talk to neighbours too and gt a feel for what they may think - some may remember the old application. Again should be available to see at the planning office. Our council seem to have rolled back and put skeleton info of old applications online, but each council is probably different.

I used a Texecom Elite panel and each sensor is, in effect, a different circuit. You can then programme behaviour for each circuit e.g. when to set it, what type it is etc. I even used this capability to wire up my front door bell as a "sensor", so when pressed it chimes through the internal sounders. Not a pretty musical chime but it works well.

#MeToo Standard corner PIR, same as in the house. No false alarms, approx 25 to 30m cable length through underground duct. I would recommend pulling some spare cables - e.g. ethernet and electric (32A) for future proofing.

Ornament. Small space, water splashes outside the bowl, fussy detail at the base. A friend had one the counter was constantly wet and laminate peeling and badly staining.

I fitted one in our old house. It had 3 pre-programmed settings for temp and flow, so I set it cooler and slower and wife very hot and full power. You can also preset the max allowed flow and temperature. Beeps when warm water flows after switch on. Maintains set temperature very well. Loved it until the day it died, just outside the warranty.

I use firefox in preference to other browsers. I like the add-ins capability and it is stable. I don't think firefox is much worse than a comparable modern and feature-rich browser - example 9 tabs on FF uses 770Mb and Chrome 800Mb (Windows 10). On a modern computer you have at least 4Gb, likely higher - as far as I am concerned the more stuff in memory then the faster the computer is likely to be as it avoids reads from the drive. I also notice that firefox will automatically use the memory if more is available. So if the computer is constrained it uses less memory. This may well be a feature of Windows 10 rather than firefox. In above example, when I opened more apps on the laptop FF memory use dropped to 500Mb, despite it being the foreground app. I think this would only be a concern if you have an old computer using 1Gb or less of memory and with a slow hard drive. In that case probably best to avoid a feature-rich and memory hungry OS and browser.

In our previous house we had hard water. The coating on the screen worked and extended time between giving it a good scrub, but the coating did seem to lose its effect after many years (perhaps 5 or 6 years). In our current house we have softened water and the screen does not need scrubbing, now in year 3, but we have given it a good wash a few times.

Hi, and welcome. Good luck with the plot search. Might be worth a search for CDM - there were some discussions about this on here in the past. It seemed clear as mud to me.

Yes but Boris will fix all that for us. Plus 10.

You can appeal it. I believe it stays in place once the plan is started.

Clause 16 is essentially a removal of your PD. I believe it is common in new builds, we also have it. You have planning agreed and cannot lose it by making a new application, (provided you are within the validity period of 3 years) so I would suggest no harm in putting in a new application. If you are close to the end of the validity date you can lock it in by starting development (e.g. dig a trench) then put in a new application. If you get the new scheme agreed then move on with that. In England, planning officers are difficult to speak to, but varies by area. They might ask you to put in a pre-planning application, which (IMO) is a waste of time as they can make decisions (judgements) which they do not have to defend as they would with a planning application. But no harm in trying to speak to them, I rang a few times and finally got someone who gave me some input. The difficulty for you is that you do not own the land yet, so if you apply (which you can) the land-owner could refuse to sell to you or raise the price if the value of the new house would be higher then the current plan. So you can either buy it and then apply or get some kind of agreement with the seller in place and apply on that basis. You are going to need specialist advise (solicitor) for the agreement if going the latter route.

Weather underground is the one i use. Inconsistent, flaky and slow. I notice now that the precipitation vales are 0 but the graphs show a number.

Hi, I am in England and not aware of NI requirements Here council is one option for BC, but private companies can also do too. I used Buildzone, adding BC on top of their Warranty was a small difference, I think around £200 (but was a while ago and memory not so good...).