ragg987

Oh, and welcome¡

My system has a similar setup. Circulator pump apart from the manifold and no blending valve, and I do not have any thermostatic control at the manifold. The circulator delivers approx 10 to 15 litres per minute, so with a 8 port manifold this is less than 2 litres per port on average. In our case the controller built into the Ashp adapts the flow temperature according to the conditions. It measures external, room and set temperature and applies the appropriate amount of heat. On a very cold day flow temperature increases (max about 32C) and on a mild day decreases down to about 22C. This works very well and keeps cop between 3.5 and 4 on average. So before you make any changes suggest you check if your HP controller has any kind of adaptive control built in. If so I see no reason to change it, it is a perfectly valid setup and was recommended and commissioned by the Ashp's UK agent.

Ensure the dhw tank and pipes are well insulated to reduce over heating the study. You could also box in the manifold. Don't forget this process is iterative, if you reduce the flow in one rad it will increase the flow in the others so you may have to go round the rooms a couple of times to get it right. One other factor would be to check the speed of the circulator pump(s) on the heating circuit. If you have more than one pump then you can fiddle with the speed setting to control flow from one manifold to another. Trv is for a plumber if you are not skilled. Bit like open heart surgery ?. Might require draining the rad.

It sounds like a balancing issue. You could try to reduce the flow to upstairs radiators, this should increase relative flow downstairs. To prove this throttle back the upstairs radiators to very low flow, give it a few hours or a day and check the room and radiator temperatures. Once proven case of trial and error to get the right balance. My understanding of radiator balancing is to aim for a constant temperature drop between in and out flows. This would assume the radiators are sized correctly for each room. This does not factor in external events e.g. sunny room or personal preferences. So a degree of adjustment from the ideal would still be required.

Earlier post from me. No experience with other track systems.

Another ICF basement here. Integraspec ICF + Kryton waterproof concrete. We focused on the primary structure for waterproofing, there are no secondary internal or external membranes, pumps etc. This is a BBA (I might have the wrong approval agency, going from memory) approved scheme and our insurance had no issues with it. The ICF provider were involved in the design, build, sign off and issued a warranty.

Reminder that you should zero vat rate the demolition if connected with a new build.

Or 3 bed bungalow with 3 outbuildings cost £5,600 Inc council fee and cartaway. And approx £2,000 for asbestos removal and disposal. Our vat saving for the new build was over £100k.

Hi and welcome. I built a 330m2 with basement and use a single MVHR for the whole house. So unless you have some other constraints you can use a single unit, if you add another one you have the added complication of balancing between the 2 units. BPC ventilation were the place to go to for good prices when we built 4 years ago, they also offered us a free design service. 80m2 south facing glazing gives a risk for over-heating - you may need to consider shading externally. Basement is tricky to heat / cool. It is an underground element so in winter requires less heat than the space above ground and in summer it can get a bit cool. But bear in mind it can easily over-heat down there at any time. E.g. I have a home cinema down there and a few people for a few hours with audio and video equipment raises the temperature quite a bit at any time of the year. When we were building I was advised of this by a company who suggested I fit a stand-alone air-con unit in there. I did not, but maybe should have.

Our unit will switch on heat recovery automatically when external temp is high, I think when it gets above about 25 to 27C. This prevents the hot external air coming into the house.

On a hot summer day the MVHR will reduce the heat gain. It does this by switching on the heat recovery, in effect coolth recovery. This will not work if you open all windows and doors, though. You can open windows at night to cool the house then shut tight mid morning to preserve the cool. I understand that the air flow in the MVHR is too low to support substantial cooling, though it should work to some degree. In either of the above you will get maximum benefit if you continue to pay attention to air tightness and insulation.

With our architect we agreed to switch to a on demand model after they completed the detail drawings. Hourly rate agreed in advance. Useful for queries, for instance. Worked well, I needed their involvement maybe twice during the 11 month build.

The simplest would be to recess your track into the ceiling board. Screw it direct to ceiling joists. The cost is not the track but the labour to create the recess. I did this with track lighting, it is a nice look. Would recommend silent gliss tracks and gliders. Simple, tough and smooth in use. https://www.silentgliss.co.uk/engb/products/view/curtain-systems/curtain-track-systems/hand/6243/

In my view adding the strips should help is you are not using resilient bar everywhere. And yes to above and below stud, though do not see the point of doing it adjacent to external walls, may as well use it on the internal wall boundary if that is the case. FWIW we also have MBC timberframe build and have taken very few precautions for noise in most areas and I would say it is fine. The noisiest aspects are gaps under the door for MVHR and the sound of footsteps upstairs, none of the strategies you have mentioned will address those. We did use single layer of fermacell on walls instead of plasterboard, plus sealed air gaps at floor and ceiling junctions. I do have a basement home theater room, built as a room inside a room where the inner structure is sitting on an acoustic floating floor. Double skin of fermacell with green glue in between. The green glue binds the 2 sheets together and increases the effective mass, plus provided some resilience. Works really well, on this room I did not have any air gaps including for ventilation and used a muffler in the air ducts.

What type of noise are you trying to reduce? If you are using resilient bars to support the wall plasterboard, then I don't see why you would need the strips. If not then the pb will transmit the vibrations to the stud and hence into the structure. Assuming you wish to keep noise inside the room from leaking out, e.g. home theater.

Can you not raise the height of the tile to match the wooden floor? A small difference in height is not ideal and becomes a trip point? For transition from amtico to wood we used L-shaped Schluter strips : https://www.schluter.co.uk/schiene.aspx

My ASHP has both the external temperature probe and compensation control built in as standard, I needed to allow for 2 cables to it. Mains power and a two core control cable. The external unit is north facing so sheltered from direct sunlight for most of the year. This does not compensate on weather forecast, only on temperature. Works fine.

330m2 house with theoretical demand of 3kW for space heating as calculated using PhPP. Using 7kW nominal split HP for DHW and space.

Or the easier way would be divide cost of electricity by CoP to get effective price per kWh of heat dumped to the house. In our case CoP is usually 3.5 to 4, so effective cost is equivalent to that of gas. If you factor in solar PV or E7, the cost of heating with ASHP can be significantly lower. Neither offer a benefit with gas.

Do you need gas in your house anyway e.g. for cooking. If not and you choose ASHP then you cut out connection and standing charges for gas. If your primary driver is cost, gas if probably better as noted above. If you want to be green then ASHP gives you the credentials as your are not (directly) adding harmful stuff into the air.

UKPN do not allow internal meter inside a new house. (I checked in 2016 when I was finalising this in my build). However, I managed to get agreement to install it inside our house after speaking to the manager. This was on the basis that the meter would be located on an external wall, in our plant room, and with free access in front of it. Happy I did that, did not want an external box hanging off rendered wall.

Looking forward to it. My build is long complete so no immediate practical need, here's to the next time...

Here you go. Page 1 is the buffer, page 2 is the DHW cylinder. DHW cylinders.pdf

I have a tall 300l DHW cylinder. It has 2 direct electric immersion heaters and one heating (water) coil. The coil sits in the bottom half of the cylinder, that way the ASHP can heat the full tank. The ASHP thermostat sits about 1/3 up from the bottom of the tank. The upper immersion is just above the coil. The lower immersion is near the bottom of the tank. Hope that makes sense, I have a schematic someplace if not.

Just to add also think about how many immersion heaters you want to use. On our 300l DHW I specified a lower and upper immersion. The diverter logic switches to lower heater when the upper one hits the set temperature. Gives more usable DHW this way. The upper immersion is above the main heating coil of the ASHP, so this permits a half tank of 45C below a hotter volume of 60C, which is my cut off for upper immersion. I have an Immersun diverter.