phatboy

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About phatboy

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  1. I would ask what professional qualifications he is looking for. The answer will probably be 'there aren't any', in which case re-submit your results!
  2. Stranded?! You're not using jacks and panels then!?
  3. Hope you chose a nice colour! Just the 1 roll?!
  4. My BPC manifolds were totally un-insulated. I fitted them to a board on the ceiling beams, and then rolled the additional 200mm loft insulation over them. Pipes from them to the main unit are in the process of being insulated with 50mm rockwool
  5. I used Excel cat6 cable, was about £90 a box I think. No issues at all. If you then have someone 'qualified' punch it down to an Excel panel and mods, they warrant it for 25 years.
  6. I found cable basket was way way cheaper than tray, despite being just as good. £5 for 3m I recall, for a 50x55mm one
  7. I don't know really, there is the required 10mm under the doors. The room has a supply valve, so heat isn't likely to be sent into the room from the rest f the house when the door is closed?
  8. Sorry for the terribly slow reply.... family life happened and nothing else got done! Since starting this thread we no longer have pets in the house, and so the bedroom door now remains open when we are home (Someone is here most days). This seems to have cured the issues during the recent cold spell, so the issue seems to have been that the room just inadequately heated - it has a 800w panel heater that's always on and is set to keep the room at about 18 degrees. Last year, before the MHRV was fitted, we did run a dehumidifier for 2 hours each morning and that kept things mostly under control, except for the corners. Thanks for all the replies, much appreciated. Tim
  9. That's what I did on mine too... inserted a connector to the solid pipe and taped, then attached the flexi with a worm drive clip, then taped over that too. I used the fabric flexi's though, and there was no way at all they were going to go over the pipes any other way.
  10. I only had a silencer on the supply, but fairly quickly added one to the extract as well. The rooms with extract you can tolerate more noise, but it was still noticeable. £25 later and the entire system is almost silent even on boost.
  11. That's a lotta reading!! I will have a look properly tomorrow. I'd like to think my system is well installed - I took a lot of time over it, as it was to be for my own benefit / enjoyment. As you have probably seen elsewhere I had considerable issues with the balancing but I think that's resolved now, I'll be re-measuring everything this week sometime to confirm.
  12. Worth a shot I suppose! I'll soon be told if it's a problem. No actual VCL correct. I never did an air tightness test before commencing, intended to run the supply side of the system higher in order to compensate for any leaks. I've made damned sure the windows and doors are well fitted though. I knew I was never going to get to a passive house level with this place, to be honest at the beginning I didn't even know about it, I just knew black mould up to chest height on all of the north and east side was not on!
  13. Wow it seems I've kicked off quite the debate here! I appreciate all the advice, so I'll reply! I really appreciate all the replies, and it seems my 'simple issue' may be far from it! Yes solid walls, no void. 9" standard blocks laid on their side. Hard plastered, existing cement parge coat, existing skim, then a re-skim re-done when we moved in. Yes HMRV was fitted as after all the insulation works were done, some corners and behind the bed still got a bit of mould, but nothing like when the house was uninsulated. The damp course could be seen until the EWI went up. Air bricks vary as we are on a sloped plot. Closest is about 2" above ground level, the ground is a paved driveway. We are also on sand. Air bricks are DEFINITELY below the DPC. I hope not, as it's all now in! The issue I guess with lots of ventilation is the draughts. I won't question any more on what you said until I've had a chance to read fully the other thread JSHarris has linked. I was pretty sure the issues we were experiencing were due to air not moving enough, and MHRV seemed a better choice than PIV. Technically yes, but it would pain me hugely, and the wardrobes would need to go against the north wall, probably making things worse! Re-assuring to know you fixed the same type of issue in the way I proposed. I could, however I don't want to over-ventilate and get a cold shoulder at night. It may be something to trial! Usually in the tumble dryer, which has an extract vent almost directly above. Sometimes it's done around the house, but the experience of others seems to be that with HMRV that's OK?! Yes just the 1 bathroom, we dream of an en-suite! There are 3 extract points: Bathroom, kitchen and utility room. It would be tough to add another now... the loft has been insulated and floored over. The mould does form very close to the supply valve though, near floor level. Yes there were, that's pretty much why I installed the system. The moisture was always worse in this room, but all rooms experienced mould in the top corner where 2 outside walls met. And behind furniture close to the wall, even with it all spaced off 2" with timbers. As suggested by @ProDave, I do already have an IR thermometer, used for sick children. It does have a surface monitor setting which I used extensively last year Right now, the north wall in that room is showing 1.5degree Celsius cooler than all other walls (roughly). I'll gather more stats tomorrow evening, even better if it's a cooler day. Thanks again all. Tim
  14. Sorry I've not made things very clear! With the MHRV I cannot have an extra extracts (presumably), nor should I need to I don't think? Please see attached room with issue, and whole house MHrV design. The problem room is Bedroom 1. Thanks again... Tim
  15. It's in the furthest corner from the door (about 4.6m), in the north - east corner About 10mm. Boost flow rate for that room is 6l/s Thanks Tim