ragg987

Can't see why this would be. Even if you heat your water to abovee 50C, as you use the water in the cylinder it will drop lower and lower. So is the shower not going to work?

The higher the flow temperature, the lower the COP. But you risk overthinking it. I use my ASHP to heat DHW to 50C and usually get a COP of 3.5 to 4, depending on external temperature. I have not topped the temperature in the 3 years using direct electrical, though granted it gets to about 70C on bright sunny days courtesy of solar PV diversion.

Financial Conduct Authority (or whatever the replacement is). You need to formally complain to the lender first and give them a chance to fix it. I got the run around with ours and the FCA awarded refund of application fees.

I have a sound proof basement room. No windows, but needed a second door as per BC in case of fire as means of escape. Ventilation is thorough the MVHR system, have fitted in line silencers to both incoming and outgoing ducts. These look a bit like car exhaust silencers. Ventilation of some sort is essential what it will suffer from damp.

Will you get sufficient light at your work areas if just reflecting off e.g. white emulsion ceilings? I have not done any calcs, my feeling is you lose >> 50% of the available lumens.

Potentially, I have never used the others. I looked at Karndean closely, but disliked the colour and style options, so ended up with amtico.

MyImmersun to monitor electrical consumption, PV generation and PV diversion. SolarEdge to monitor PV. Both require that their equipment be installed.

Yes domestic vinyl tile range, we used Spacia. I don't think they have specific bathroom or kitchen tiles.

We have engineered oiled flooring in our kitchen, continuity from open plan lounge and diner. Looks nice, bur after 3 years it looks a bit grubby as bits of food have been trodden in. If I were to do it again I would use Amtico, as we had in our previous kitchen. Pretty much indestructible in domestic use, cleans well and is not hard, cold or echoey. I used Amtico in our current bathrooms, with a transition from wooden flooring using Schluter straight-edge strips. Subtle and interesting transition. https://www.northantstools.co.uk/product/schluter-schiene-av-straight-edge-milled-aluminium-2-5m-length

I think it is this model. http://www.plumbingandheating-solutions.co.uk/epages/BT4013.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4013/Products/DMAN06

This is pretty much what I have. I have 3 manifolds, 2 supply the main house and the 3rd supplies the annexe. All three have a single circulator and there are no individual actuated control valves. I use the ASHP programmer to decide the flow temperature (compensation controls) and a single room controller in main house to provide feedback to the ASHP, plus another in the annexe. I balanced the individual loops to drive the relative flows. Only reason I have 2 zones is to allow annexe to be controlled separately - elderly parents want it warmer. The zoning is controlled by the ASHP. If it were not for that a single zone would have been fine. This is extremely simple, as there is no control (other than manually setting flow) at the manifolds I can skip circulators, blending valve, actuators, thermostats. It works very well.

My experience is different. Our address started to disappear over a few months, including sales history off Rightmove. I believe the trigger was when my council notified the VOA after I told them of the demolition. It was not until I registered the new build with the VOA did it start to return to the address databases. I think it was a few weeks before royal mail had it.

Hitachi split unit 3hp.

Are you demolishing prior to build? And presumably you would then want to de-register the old house so you no longer pay rates? If so the address disappears and this change will cascade through databases of households e.g. royal mail etc. Reason this might matter is that it may cease to be a legal address e.g. for DVLA, voting register etc. And might it also affect your credit records?

We did not show the heap pump on planning, just installed it during the build. There were no issues. For SAP we declared the model and did not mention cooling, which was disabled from the factory. Was told this is to comply with the certification requirement. A simple link on site enabled it after commissioning complete. Out pump is approx 2m from the fence, our neighbors house is about 2m beyond that.

You need to ensure condensate can drain. In the winter this will freeze over, on a patio it would be asking for trouble.

Pm sent

Understandable. I claimed a couple of extra items in error (receipts had claimable and non-claimable items), they spotted and just adjusted the claim. I got a strongly worded letter about it but that was it.

Mitsubishi offer a 4.5kW CO2 unit capable of 70C. The specs are not well laid out, but looks like COP will be poor at about 2 or 3. https://les.mitsubishielectric.co.uk/products/heating/domestic/outdoor/ecodan-quhz-monobloc-air-source-heat-pump

Yes and yes, though I don't think BC are concerned about extract for cooking. Also be aware that charcoal filters are about removing grease and not so good for cooking smells.

It is a balance - anything you do to reduce direct light coming into the house (film, trees etc) will mean you are making it darker. Brise does not have to stick out by much - you can have window slats, random google search: http://dougintology.blogspot.com/2007/11/solar-decathlon-window-slats.html Sounds really nice...

Or maybe a mesh screen? Might create an interesting effect. We were soaking up winter sun in India at christmas - their architects really understood the effect of screening to aid cooling - shading and ventilation - plus privacy.

Tall trees south of your house? If not then you have shutters or brise-soleil in addition to reflective glass or films. You might get a combination e.g. short-overhang brise and shorter trees.

Cannot answer this question, we have posis in our timberframe at first floor level and beam and block above ICF basement. I dislike the posis we have - bounce and noise when walking over them, some of our spans are reasonably large. If I were to do it again I would consider concrete or b&b, or at the very least make sure the posis are substantially beefier.

I suggest you factor this in at an early stage as a design principle, it will be harder and more expensive to retro-fit. Example the pasiv standard calls for high insulation, minimised thermal bridges, controlled solar gain, well sealed fabric and positive ventilation approach. None of this will happen by accident, if your intention is to aim for something similar get it agreed early as it has impacts all the way through the design. @JSHarris has provided one example - bi-folds.