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The problem you’ve got is the CIL is due and the council will pursue matters against you. You’d be fighting on two fronts - one against the council and one against the architect… but a planning solicitor would help on both fronts and hopefully be able to look at whether the architect had any liability. Contact a solicitor tomorrow.

What a nightmare. I, like you, had no build experience and when I first heard someone mention CIL I had absolutely no idea what they were on about. Fortunately for me I learned how important it was not to f*ck up the form submission from the predecessor of this Forum (not from the architect). It’s a kind of extortion isn’t it? They’ve got you on a technicality. One or two pieces of paper that actually say very little are a bit late arriving with the authority, submitting them now would change nothing but they won’t let you so you have to pay over a hundred grand. They are probably more than aware that it’s a newbie making a newbie mistake. I’m sorry I don’t have any constructive solution but it’s making my blood boil so I had to get it off my chest.

>>> CIL isn't nationwide - not all councils implement a CIL, so it is in fact a choice That's a good point - so how would a self-builder know unless the council had told you directly? And a good point about the MP etc - it might just be legal, but it's pretty nasty, immoral and unjust for the LPA to try and exact this penalty. 'Community' indeed, legalised mugging more like. Also, it's worth asking the architect to sort it out with the LPA as they both need to have an ongoing relationship. Amazing what can be done if the will is there - I once had Barclays and the HMRC agree to sort out a tax problem that Barclays had caused by being stupid. Oh and the local paper of course. Councils don't like to be seen as money grabbing bullies.

Surely that’s enough to have a pop at the architect isn’t it?

I ended up using Farnovo dry paint, which is a bit cheaper than this, but not by a huge amount. They ship you 5kg of powder, you mix it with 3L of water to get ~5.5L of paint for ~£80, plus pigment. https://www.womersleys.co.uk/shop/paints/internal-paint/paints_for_internal_plaster/farnovo-dry-paint , https://www.womersleys.co.uk/Guides/TDS_DPM_Classic_Farnovo_en.pdf etc. Good coverage, but you do need two coats on top of lime - the first one mixed relatively thin. You can mix it into a thick paste to fill cracks or do decorative work too. Much cheaper, but I don't have any experience with it https://www.womersleys.co.uk/shop/paints/internal-paint/paints_for_internal_plaster/cornerstone-lime-paint

OMG I can only imaging the stress of this. It’s very unfair, and not uniform across the country. Some councils don’t charge CIL at all. I think you have a case to try to claim against the architect’s personal indemnity (PI) insurance. It’s an unkind thing to do, but that’s a heck of a lot of money. If he uploaded the CIL1 form, he was aware that he was doing this on your behalf. Presumably he will not be allowed to admit liability but I have no doubt he will be making a phone call. As others have said, get legal advice and maybe close the site whilst you resolve the situation? Write to your MP, Angela Rayner and Radio 4 whilst you are at it. All the best.

If I put my foot down, my V8 AMG returns less than 8mpg. "Smiles per gallon" my friend. You are dead for a VERY long time, fill your boots and do NOT listen too much to bean counters. Most get buried with their money and are boring as feck. Most won't buy a round either.

SE input is the first stop, and there's your 'sanity check', simples. Crazy or not is decided by that person, as your ground conditions will dictate the majority of the lunacy aka cost but at that point it's only on paper so cheaper to bin the idea there (if the feedback says don't do it) before you spend big. The main issue is the clay, and heave, as one slab set into a clients build (for a swim-spa about the size you state) featured a 100mm steel reinforced slab via the SE's "original idea"......this snapped clean in half over the first winter, literally. The SE was a cock, and very comfortable spending his clients cash like water. The clients were very lucky to have a great builder on board, and he went all-out on the second attempt; which worked out well, but only at twice (or three times) the price and about 4 months of delays....ffs 😳 I would recommend doing this in ICF in a heartbeat, and my ICF guy is someone who's done more pools than there are UK governments who have failed their constituents. For a single-storey jobby, the pump arrangement should be a fail-safe at best, and the majority of migratory water influx should be near zero or mitigated against / dealt with by natural discharge (unless you live near @Russell griffiths where you poke a hole in the ground and get a swimming pool for free 8 seconds later). Clever choices for the groundworks and robust french drains 'and what-not' should be your best friend here, but it just needs someone to look at it who has previous experience, and isn't just giving opinions. FWIW the last home we spec'd a pool for was indoors in a £7.2m home. Would be good if a design proposal for that scale of project didn't come back to bite me in the arse so I trust my team and my ideas, unless they all tell me they're bad ones lol. At that point it's back to the office (pub) for more intensive talks

Yes agreed. The fact that they made the effort to hunt down my e-mail address to send me the email today regards the surcharges once they discovered that I’ve started the build is what’s making me super angry. They had the opportunity to send me a letter, hunt down my email address, and then would not be in this position.

The new owners may well create a problem as the IWI build up will no longer be breathable. But thats on them If you are nice, like i was, i left the next owners a "house book" advising them what to do and which walls it was applicable too.

If you need a really big pump running 24/7 you have made some seriously bad decisions. So "no" to that, and "yes" to some 'proper' thought/input from someone both a) sane and b) who's been there and done that and got the T-shirt

>>> And then they emailed my architect on 2 occasions, basically reminding them that their client needs to submit the forms. I never got those emails from the local authority or my architect. That's right, the LPA should have emailed you directly and/or sent you a letter. It's not rocket surgery for the LPA to add the client themselves to the email list, is it? Because ... the architect's work might have concluded with the planning process and/or the architect might have forgotten to tell their client. If they want to hold you liable, then they should have told you. I think that's also (at least part of) a reasonable defence in law. And since email gets lost, accidentally deleted etc. then the LPA should have emailed and sent you a 'signed-for' or properly couriered letter.

I still have the standard filters at present as it’s only been running a couple of weeks. The Advance S is big enough for my house and more advanced than the plus B, it’s also quieter apparently

That’s a great idea thanks so much. I will get in contact with them tomorrow. Thank you!

Architect provided a 20 page specification document for the tender process. We managed it ourselves and have a solicitor approved legal contract stating that all works will be completed as per the specification document and as per the drawings (all 20+ drawing are specifically listed on this contract). Specific area related to the roof: “1.5.17. Roof Structure Refer to drawings.” “1.5.18. Roof finishes Roof covering in accordance with the drawings and manufacturers details. Supply and install all roof finishes and components, flashings, soakers, etc. as required to complete the roof covering as indicated on the drawings and in accordance with all the current standards and forms of construction. Include for roof vents, roof lights, chimney flashings, soil vent pipe flashings, etc. as necessary to complete the entire roof.” The drawings state: “Slate tiles on SW battens”.

Fair point @joe90 if the contract called out all planning matters inclusive of CIL arrangement fair enough. If they did I’d definitely pursue them - their professional indemnity would pay out, result all round. Our RIBA stage/worded contract definitely didn’t. @Berkshire_selfbuid - what was your contract with your architect? Care to post it (anonymised)?

Over the years I’ve removed two very expensive pools and the building re purposed as gyms, it seamed as though once the kids grew up and got bored with it they got very little use. depends if your an avid keep fit swimmer type. some people put in super ovens and kitchens because they like cooking. you do what you want its your house. just don’t be disillusioned that it’s going to be cheap to do.

Our challenge was different (aren't they all), but reading your situation it sounds similarly difficult to my experience at the outset, so I feel like there is relevance in the strategy and approach I took. Here was my approach: Manage your expectations, risk appetite and budget - essential first step imho. Our expectations were: assume 12mths to get a refusal, prepare appeal (6mths), then go for appeal (18-24mths) whilst submitting second application but in general assuming it will take the worst case duration. Planning consultant (judged it to be a '50:50' chance). Initial visit and assessment cost £250. Architect (having approached a PC with local experience gave us a lot of credibility here). Developed a design, got all the possible surveys done and prepared an application. Our architect made a scale (physical) model - not specifically requested, but OMG it proved valuable! Wrote to all neighbours PRIOR to submitting application and local conservation group etc. Met those that wanted to and answered any/all questions (some had very strong objections, but our transparency and honesty were appreciated; they still objected, but we were fine with that and were happy that we could discuss it in person first). The physical model was invaluable in conveying the proposal to the neighbours and conservation group (much better than a CGI, which can appear too realistic and lacks the ability for ambiguity/interpretation. Submitted application... Lessons - engaging the neighbours in advance was one of the best things we did; it was based on how we would want to be treated if we were neighbours. For what it's worth, I'd take one of 2 approaches: Option 1 - no initial outlay Write to neighbours - set out situation and proposal. Although technically neighbour comments only carry weight if they are raising 'material planning considerations', the reality is that they can generate a lot of negative feel over a development and this can influence planners and/or committees. Some basic site information/maps/layout will help. Then approach planning consultant and the process above. Having some indication of the public opinion will be useful to the planning consultant and architect. Time is a great healer for people coming to terms with something that they may initially be vehemently against. The time it takes you to do the other activity will help them be more accepting of your design and detail when you go back to them prior to submission. Option 2 - Planning consultant fee initial cost Planning consultant initial site assessment. Broadly as above. Good luck in your approach.

Limewash. Doesnt get cheaper or more breathable than that.

I'm genuinely interested in what a better system might look like in terms of who should be making decisions. Is it so fundamentally broken that it's beyond repair for the forseeable?

I don’t think they have a plan Other than throwing unrealistic numbers out there

I don't know the relative SD values, but 'Contract Matt' is effectively designed for painting walls which shouldn't be painted yet.

Thanks for the recommendations, I will take a look at that. Yes, pre-app would be an option, though we had a bad experience with this previously, not on a residential project but on a business application. Like most planning teams it seems, ours has a crazy turnover of personnel and the process has been arduous to say the least. The pre-app was very encouraging but it passed through so many pairs of hands that the momentum just waned. I suspect if we just ask the question with a pre-app the answer will be no but if we're able to build an argument it might just be a maybe... (and probably a no later down the line!).

This may help you recover VAT from contractors. There is a more useful information in the original thread

I did!!! My VAT chap spotted that my builder had made a mistake and he gave me back about a grand (£1000) and apologised. (I told you my builder was a good chap. )

That's what I'd do. Plastic waste pipe and fittings is a game that no-one other than the bleedin manufacturers win.

Oh the old 'how do I mate this with that' game. I've spent many jolly hours in DIY sheds holding two white plastic components in my hands with a quizzical look. Helps if you're good at jigsaws. Stick to one quality brand if it's you that's choosing. Otherwise good luck 😁.

Just had the post and sure enough letter rejecting some claims! - I'm on it!

Yes, get on to them.

Insulated metal sheeting is by far the simplest and cheapest solution for a small span like that. I would raise the pitch to at least 4deg (about 1:14) by raising the rear wall plate or taking a row of bricks off the front wall. Could completely dispense with all the internal timbers then too as the span looks like it's only about 2.5m.

But what did the roofer's quote say? If there is any doubt whatsoever in your mind as to whether you have been charged for real slates or 'fake slates' I would argue that it is not Dig a bit.

Should have said “slate effect “ roof.

Have you thought about using solar PV panels. Move so you have one side of roof facing east the other west. 2m2 of PV is about £50 to £60

It’s quite simple to set out No I wouldn’t do it that way Using one hanger to catch both ceilings is much stronger We do quite a lot like this on department stores and hotels In effect there left with a large ceiling Freshly taped with 1200 mil of hangers sticking out Then the shoplifters come in and do there stuff Then put a ceiling in using our hangers

I use Solaredge and you can pick them up on Ebay for £15 upwards if you're prepared to wait. Otherwise £40? upwards. They have a 25yr warranty so I'm not bothered about buying privately. Optimisers/micro inverters are wired in a string the same way as panels can be wired. The panels plug into their optimiser but arent functionally part of the string. The difference is that where a faulty/shaded/lower powered panel in a conventional string can block or restrict the power coming from the rest of the string, optimisers don't. Each optimiser allows power from the rest of the string to pass through it unrestricted and adds any power it has available. If an optimiser has no power to add because its panel isnt producing any, the rest of the string carries on producing as normal. Each optimiser has an MPPT in it to get the most power out of its panel. You can connect whatever panels you want to optimisers so long as the panels output is within the optimisers input range AND the optimiser is compatible with other optimisers in the string. If youre asking about mismatched panels in a conventional string then yes you can, but the lower rated panels will likely restrict the output of any higher rated panels. It's doable but alot more restrictive than using optimisers/micro inverters

I have pretty high expectations, but the reality is a lot of this isn't terrible...a bit sloppy but you're below DPC and most of that will never be seen again... Had the builder been staying on I'd have said totally leave it, the fact he is rotating off gives you wiggle room but for the sakes of half a days worth of a brickie they will get resolved, but the level of stress you'll have put into this.... You're building a house, not a space shuttle. It's outdoors, in all weathers, by multiple people who generally have a low threshold of care and lower skill levels, and they're far more experienced then you are at grinding people down If you have this level of attention to detail and expectations this build will put you in any early grave. You need to prepare to compromise, the art form is in knowing when you need to - vs when your standards mean the work gets redone. You can't win them all though...

Seems like your being over critical Choose your words when speaking to your builder

First thing to learn, and you know a little bit of it already, is Ohm's Law. The second thing to know is the resistivity of cables, well metals really. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistivity_and_conductivity Then, as others have said, how to use a multimeter. Bigger is better as the writing on the dial is bigger, or maybe that me just getting old. No need to buy an extra expensive one, I got one from Poundland, works well and the probes are pretty decent. Final thing to know, and this helps with PV as there are some quirks, is it he fundamental difference between AC (alternating current) and DC (direct current). There is a reason that people say play safely with DC. Though Topsy the Elephant was actually dispatched with AC, though there had been a long running arguement about which type of power delivery was the safer. Hopefully, all your AC side is covered by an RCD/RCBO. So your personal risk is low.

@SBMS - save your cash . Do this - value for 15 quid .

FWIW. We have a Brink Flair, so not a dissimilar model to the Zehnder. Ours is sat in a warm loft space on a block of EPS without any kind of fixings. The MVHR has never moved and never transmitted any perceivable vibration.

No way are you pressurised that high. In the 10s of Pascal's, maybe. 10kPa - no. Are you sure you don't mean 0.1psi maybe, not sure I would want to open a door against that.

Wow. Do the doors sound like the doors on the USS Enterprise? (Being serious I’m with @Mike on this one, running a positive pressure sounds like an invitation to trouble, and running balanced should keep smells out just as well - all down to the quality of the extra carbon filter you may have fitted).

Not a good idea - unless your flat is perfectly airtight the excess pressure pushes moist internal air through any gaps in the structure, where it can condense and cause problems. Always go for equally balanced.

When the wall is dry you could apply a coat of StormDry. It should last 25 years and keep the wall dry while still allowing evaporation.

The wall can be built up to 2.5 metres (ten courses) in height before the first concrete pour. This bit has changed since our build, it was 6 rows when we built. I would ignore and do 6 rows at a time. It way more manageable and less likely to go wrong.

Yes. This is it going on You can see the brushes we used to apply in this photo

I think you will have to lift the floor. Laminate flooring is fairly moisture resistant, but it is also quite vapour tight, so getting a few litres of water to evaporate though it is going to take a long time. Most MDF swells when wet, and does not return to the original dimensions. Get the insurance to sort it.

We knocked the building down the second bats were mentioned, don't need planning for that! We had a full ecology report done which said NO BATS, but planning warned they'd want a bat survey anyway, due to a planned october/November start of construction and confidence we would get planning approved, we pulled the demolition forwards, then a week later sent a very apologetic letter back to them. There were a few grave warnings on fines and penalties, but the risk of delay and costs made the decision easy. It helped that our new build was broadly speaking reusing the existing footprint (project planned as extension, but swapped to a full rebuild) so had they forced a rebuild we'd have made it work. We did have a real fight over trees, had a full tree survey which stated our garden was already over subscribed with trees. Planning wanted a full tree replanting plan, for the 4 small, low value, excessively aged trees. Took several weeks pushing back on it. An hour with a chain saw pre project, and those trees would never have existed had I known the headache they caused....

Well done you for posting and asking the questions you are and compliments on your model. Funnily have just done a design for something very similar. I'll split the post into two parts: Your original post has three photos.. call them photos 1 ,2 & 3 Part One if you were not adding load to the attic floor: Photo 2 shows the joists spliced in mid air. Often you find that there were back to back cupboards in these houses and someone has taken away the cupboard on one side that supported the end of the ceiling joists. One way of fixing this is where the joist does not rest on the wall is to extend it. Say it is 500 mm short of the new support.. and the support is 100 mm wide. Get another bit of timber and cut it 1800m long.. nice size as you an get 4 bits out of a standard 4.8m length of timber. That gives you a 1200mm overlap. Now the old timber will be imperial size.. new ones are often metric so watch out for that. Now get some Cascamite structural glue.. read instructions! This is important. You need to look at the end grain of the existing timber and see which way the circular pattern of the grain runs. The side of the old joist will be "cupped" Turn your new timber so the end grain pattern runs the same way so that when it dries it tends to cup the same way as the old timber, if not it will pull the joint apart or split the timber. Next offer it up and pilot drill the new timber. Clean the old timber and new and cover both sides in the glue. Now screw them together with 5 x 80mm screws staggered at 200mm horizontal centres. Keep the glue off you.. messy stuff. The screws do the clamping while the glue cures. The glue is stonger than the wood so job done.. no need to check the screws for strength.. other than to say the screws provide an alternative load path if something goes wrong with the glue. When you look at the ceiling joist spans you'll see that by extending the now short ones they are spanning no further than the longer ones. Lastly don't forget to put in the noggings / dwangs. The above sorts out how you remove these back to back cupboards you find in these houses when you want to take them out an make straight wall. Provided you are only going to put around 25 kg / m^2 including the self weight of the flooring ceiling etc.. which leaves you with about 10kg per sq metre load for xmas decorations and the point load from a plumber. In summary this about the safe working load you can put on these old ceilings. Sometimes you can put on extra load but this needs to be over the supporting walls below provided they are truly load bearing. Part two: Adding further load: You need to start in the solum. On the ground floor you'll probably have brick walls on a found than can transition to thinner (3") cinder block on the first floor. But often the first floor cinder block is built off the floor joists and offset from the structural walls on the ground floor. You should consult an SE as there are quite a lot of unforseen implications. Don't mess with the roof at this stage until you get a better understanding of the issues. For example I often see that folk have on the ground floor widened the opening between the front sitting room and the rear room to make it open plan.. it needs a bit of thought. What you do up top has an impact lower down. That said if you want to post more drawings showing how the walls on the first and ground floor line up I and others will chip with potential solutions that you can mull over. Easy way is to do some floor plans with gridlines. Once you nut this out at the lower levels then you turn back to the attic floor. If you are going to do this then why not design it for full domestic loading to be on the safe side. It may be that in the round you might be better off spending your money on a rear ground floor extension that will add real value to your house? For all: On the face of it you may think hey.. I'll strengthen the attic floor by putting in big timber running continuously from the front to rear wall and let them rest mid point on an internal wall.. On the face of it that looks good..it reduces deflections a good bit but there is no free lunch as what you do here is to create a two span continuous beam. The bad news is when you do this the central support attracts about 60% of the overall load and rather than 50% if the timber was formed in two pieces..simply supported.. things can start to protest if at a lower floor level the load does not go straight down to the founds for example.

damn! that is quick. need to get my arse in gear and collate all my invoices. good luck with getting better receipts. afaik you can't claim the VAT back that contractors have charged when they shouldn't but i guess you can ask the contractor/company if they'll refund it. again, good luck!