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There’s no advantage to you in fitting a GSHP. Loads of installers have pulled out of the market and are just installing ASHP now. They may make more sense in larger installations or community heating. For near passive house specs it’s a lot of cost for no benefit and more likely more downsides. We looked at it ourselves as we happened to have a spare borehole that we never paid for so I thought it might have been a way to use it. But it was still expensive, added a degree of extra complexity, was possibly too close to our water supply borehole, and we had limited space inside for the plant needed. Arguably even an ASHP was overkill for us. I heated the place for months with two small radiators. Took a while to get it up to temperature but once it was there it was fine.

You must get to the bottom of this before parting with your cash. I see this a lot.. the vendor claims no knowledge.. but I know they know that they are not offering a clean sale. Ask this.. are you the first punter that has pitched up or have there been others who have clocked that the vendor is not playing the game? I have seen this over the last 40 years.. If you can't get a rural plot soakaway or similar to work etc then the plot is often only worth the agricultural value.. it's a fact folks and there is usually no magic bullet. It may be that the plot is worthless.. you don't want to be the idiot that buys it. It may be that you can do a deal where they give up more of their land and you share the soakaway say, now the plot has value. It's time to say to them.. look we need to sort this out or we are off. If you are not firm now you could lose your shirt. Forget CCTV survey for now and get the big stuff sorted. Who owns what and what rights of servitude exist. Understand that first.

It helps to know someone is listening and interested. We don't know each other and sometimes we just possibly might not be correct on everything, but its like having 10 consultants in the room, to just interject on their specific knowledge. Linear design is costly...client to architect to SE to QS to builder, with any original non-optimal ideas carried through. You can save 1/4 by getting comments and feedback early. Scottish reg's for conversions have ' as far as reasonably practicable' applied to insulation and some other sections. Thus you can argue where costs are insane, or you want to retain character. English not so, and you won't know the bco's attitude until its too late. We plumped for a timber stud wall (tent) inside the stone, with mineral wool. We fretted that this was losing a lot of floor area but we don't think about it now, while sipping Glenwhatsit in the cosy space.

Sadly too often the case. Our sliding door was off square by 20mm and 15mm out of plumb. I didn’t need to put a level on it to see it. I pointed it out to them as they moved onto the next window and got a load of waffle about it was just in and they were going to come back and true it up at the end. Who does that. After that I followed them round every window and checked it. This obviously pissed them off but I was passed caring about their ‘professional pride’ at this point. “It’s been years since I’ve had my work checked” etc. My advice to them of never being too proud to have your work checked fell on deaf ears.

I an engineer if I can take a lump of metal and form it to become a useful component part of a machine, whether as repair or new design, or am I an engineer only if I can sit in front of a cad/cam and produce design drawings along with some calculations Both could be an engineer, or neither could an engineer. Depending on your level of learning. An engineer needs to understand things at a fundamental level, know the theory, this comes from training. If can form a useful competent out of metal AND you know why (from your training) you have a certain surface finish and hardness and what the bearing clearance are and why, you maybe an an engineer, if you are just following a set of drawings blindly, you are not an engineer. Same as the person in from of a computer.

I think we've developed too much of a bias about degrees and the value they actually bring. I've met plenty of non-degree, non-formally trained engineers that will blow the socks of many engineering degree holders in both theoretical and practical knowledge. I also think we've developed a problematic prejudice towards manual work versus the degree holder. I hold a Master's degree, I studied aerospace engineering at degree level (but changed course during the degree as I got bored with the extent of mathematical modelling in front of computers) and then also studied acoustics, thermodynamics and fluid dynamics during a period where I designed exhaust systems. Now I am a heating 'engineer' installing heating systems, gas boilers, doing reparis and servicing part time - I actually find quite a lot of it very rewarding. Now, with all that being said, I do have an issue with the level of training and certification in the heating industry - I think it's appalling. But the problem with that is that is turns from protect to protectionism which becomes counterproductive. There would need to be some careful definition of what engineer actually meant and recognise various routes that can be taken to achieve this. Am I an engineer if I can take a lump of metal and form it to become a useful component part of a machine, whether as repair or new design, or am I an engineer only if I can sit in front of a cad/cam and produce design drawings along with some calculations?

I think we need a political wing to Buildhub who can ask questions. I mentioned yesterday that installers should be asked how many degrees in Engineering they have in the company. This because, given the sophistication of the systems they are selling, I think they will need 1x mechanical engineer for the thermodynamics, 1x Electrical / electronic engineering for all the power and control systems and another in software engineering / computer networking to handle that aspect and finally a systems engineer to deal with the integration. If they are chartered engineers then you can seek redress from their professional body and either they or their company will carry professional indemnity (PI) which could be claimed against for inappropriate installs. The trouble is that too many of our engineering graduates go into finance and traditional plumbers don't want to grow in the graduate skills direction anyway. To be fair our daughters favourite plumber is a graduate and very happy plumbing in Dulwich.

Well done you. As @ETC says annotate this up. Admire what you are doing, if you can get handle on this then the world is you oyster. Here are a few quick comments, some are obtuse but you'll learn this as you go.. don't be disheartened mind. Have a look on the internet for some of the terms I use if not clear. 1/ On the curtain wall where the glass comes down you show a flashing to shed the water outwards. Flashings need a safety lip. Show add that as the manufacture of the flashing will recommend it as a standard, so folk don't get cut on the sharp edge and it weathers much better for example, also stiffens the edge of the flashing. 2/ Make sure you show any mastic and note it as say flexible polysulphide mastic or similar and approved. BC can pull you up on this. Contractors will love you as it gives them room for manouevre. 3/ Your concrete anchors look a bit off SE wise. The two near the glazing are too close together (causes anchor spacing problems at detailed SE design stage, you could have to redraw it all!) and too close to the edge of the concrete.. all will trip you up later once the SE gets going. The two holding the I shaped section down are too long. Show them embedded into the concrete by 130mm. Also show the thread of the bolt extending above the nut by 5mm unless you are using expanding anchors. 4/ I think your mansard roof is too close to the box gutter as: (a) You'll need to get a drill etc into fix it... buildability. (b) The box gutter will have a run on it.. how do you achieve this and make all look tidy at the end of the day. (c) It will choke with debris / moss as the cladding is too close to the bottom of the box gutter (d) You will get spashing back up the cladding which could void the manufacture's warranty. BC regs in the spirit of things like to keep things 150mm above the spash zone. Simple solution.. just lift the cladding clear of the box gutter by 150mm? Ok don't get too hung up on the above. The best advice I can give you is to be brave when drawing. If you don't know something just put a note " to be confirmed" and then say why it needs to be confirmed.. it's ok to say you don't know! Below is a screen shot from a section drawing from one of my jobs. I use red colour to flag up a big structural safety issue and softer colours to pick out the bits that make the drawing easy to read. At the top there is a note where I say "also prop the ceiling joists to prevent punching through.." here what I'm doing it to try and communicate why I want something done in a certain way and what other folk need to do to make it all work. You'll also see how I'm flagging up stuff about temporary propping ect SE wise at the top of the drawing, no strong boys etc. This drawing also has a figure of a person.. bit odd .. I do this as soon as you open the drawing you get a feel for the scale, yes it's not true SE / technical detail stuff but my job is to make it easy for everyone to read an understand what I want them to do. I also dimension where I can the height of the person to avoid later "complications" and accusation that I may have shrunk / increased the figure height to make things look bigger / smaller. @ETC? surely not sir? But other's are not so honest as we know.. some folk alter the drawing aspect scale for planning purposes. The drawings above are telling a storey and targeted to the reader who will be a local builder, BC, the checking SE and the Client who has a technical background. The real objective is.. yes to provide the technical detail and that is what @ConnerR you'll probably get assessed on. But run this by you lecturer and see if they will add marks by using colour, adding explanatory notes which shows that you understand what you are drawing and how someone can take your drawings and build something from them. The annotation notes on a drawing are often as important as the detail. I'm not talking about the massive long text list down the side of the drawing.. more the annotation. I use arrows as the reader can see what I'm pointing at! It takes a bit more time but helps avoid errors. Contractors are busy folk and don't have time to read pish. Below is a bit of a fascia detail from the same job. Again I'm using colour and notes to try and pick out the important bits on this drawing. Also see how I offer alternative warm roof fixings to the Contractor but make it clear how I want them to penetrate the timbers. I use a technique to denote things on the near side and far side.. steel fabrication drawings often have this annotation. But if you do this you need to have a text box that explains the annotation.. It can be a good tool as it declutters the drawing if the annotations gets too congested. Below is a totally different style of drawing from the same job but using a specialist steel designer software package. It's two fabrication drawings for the steel fabricator..who take no prisoners if you get it wrong! The first is a general arrangement 3d drawing, the second is what is call an assembly drawing of beam B2. Beam B2 I hope the above gives you and insight into how we communicate by drawing what needs to be done and the different syles / ways of doing it. Keep posting as you make progress with your studies and all the best.

Absolutely not, they’ve f***ed up - it happens, we all do it and we all do our best to prevent it but that’s what’s happened based on the picture. You can see daylight bottom right. Either the surveyor has f***ed up or it has been the estimator/order processor. They have forgotten to add the 30mm transport strip that your internal cill butts up to and external cill connects to. I’d like to see more internal and external pictures to give a definitive answer. However, on first glance they’ve f***ed up and I’d be expecting this to be addressed.

Climate is as important as my heat pump that's for sure we are trying to do our bit building a wooden framed house to passive standard, trying to keep waste to a minimum, paying attention to details like air tightness. The fact is climate is a wicked problem and although we can all do our bit individually, we need to do so much more collectively and recognise the cost this will be across the piece. Still what price can you put on your great grandchildren' great grandchildren?

Ventilation, ventilation, ventilation, stick a living, breathing, cooking person inside a box wrapped with plastic and you are going to get damp and mould.

Good morning everyone, My wife and I (and our 1 year old and 3 year old) are embarking on a stone barn conversion + extension in Northumberland. It's been a long process already (first sat down with the architect 2 years ago!) but we have planning, have satisfied our pre-commencement conditions (3 of 21 conditions in total 🫠) and in are now in negotiations with a contractor following a tender process. The tender replies were pretty wild, coming in anywhere from 50% to 150% above our expected cost so we've been busily cutting everywhere we can and hope to be very nearly there.... Yesterday saw a new spanner enter the works with the news that we will need a new connection from the DNO (would need it anyway but we are installing PV array, GSHP, EV charger etc so doubly important) which is how I came across with extremely helpful community so thanks for the help already and thanks in advance for your wisdom on the stupid questions I'm sure I will be asking!

Well worth a listen to this old broadcast. https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/b007ycdl

I have used a mixture in the past on different builds ranging from tiling batten 35mm sq untreated etc . Personality I prefer a slightly larger void to stop anything puncturing the vcl . On my own builds or for friends I use 3x2 cls , dry, nice and wide for fixing your plasterboard and deep enough to protect the vcl and get electrical back boxes in etc

There really is nothing to the design of a heat pump plumbing. Single zone (if you want zones you need a buffer). You need around 40 to 50L of water engaged at all times. Let's say a 6 kW heat pump. Flexible hose attached to heat pump, then 28mm pipe to a 3 way diverter valve (not a mid point). Normally open port to heating system, normally closed to cylinder heating coil. If UFH either direct to manifold (from diverter) or via a mixer and pump (general it needed. Common return pipe. Heat pump cylinder (3m2 coil).

The internal cill height difference should have been taken into account. Cill needs removed, packed up and made good. It’s an oversight but it would need to have been resolved either way. External alu cill as expected but I’d expect coloured screws / cover capped screws for fixing. Along top externally, it's a replacement tbh and I’d expect things not to have been considered or a wait see result before finishing. I’d have expected a discussion to have taken place though.

? When it comes to condensation, the absolute humidity (the grams of water in a kg of air) can become important.

Dinner has just been put on table, will come back to this.

We do, and despite all the whingeing I do here, I like it and it works ok. The fixed priced tenders we looked at all had extra costs that couldn't be justified. And a fixed price contract would lock in a detailed specification without any changes and lock me out of the site. For us it works well but only because I have time to be on site every day to do the crap jobs that nobody else wants to do like sweeping cavities, getting airtightness detail right, and putting red bull bottles in the bin. There are fixed prices as we go along, so fixed price for blocklaying, fixed price for metal roof, etc. The builder overees progress, gets good prices for materials and, most importantly, gets good trades on site. I know from expereince that when I phone, say an eletrician, they don't even return my call, but will pick up the phone to my builder straight away. Open book arrangement also gives me the option to save some cash from things like buying the scaffold and provideing water and leccy on site. This saves on the extortionate preliminaries in a fixed price contract. I can also retain control over stuff like roof design and mvhr layout and do some of the work myself. Even though I have no idea generally what I'm doing. 🤦‍♀️ Its not for everyone but if you want to be involved in the project and are prepared to cancel all your holidays (my wife is not talking to me) to be on site every day (and have a builder you can trust) then an open book arrangement is a good option. It will be interesting, when I get to the end of the project to see how the cost compares to the FP contracts but I think so far it is looking very competitive.

Bugger me that’s exactly what I thought.

Simple, if it’s not in the deeds of your plot that it has to be kept for your neighbours use, then just dig it up and skip it. this could actually simplify things. I have a property with next doors tank and drainage field at the far end of the garden, it’s in my deeds that it’s there and I have to allow access for maintenance. so if the bloke selling your plot is playing dum then what’s to stop you digging his up and building a garage on top of it. unless it’s stipulated where it is and the need to stay away from it, as in an easement around it, then buy the plot, drive all over it with a big excavator and break it all up, he will soon regret not showing where it was.

If it is old it will have a soakaway, probably a small one filled with rubble and unlined.. If the tank is inefficient then it will clog from time to time. Either the neighbours know there is a soakaway or drainage field but are choosing not to tell you where, or they don't know. they must at least know where any cess or digester is, and you can asses where that would drain to. If it is working OK then there isn't really much of a risk, but there is always some. if it isn't working well, there may be occasional saturation of the ground. Look for longer grass and especially reeds to show where that might be. Look for the same on google earth At the very least you need a clause that says you are not responsible for any damage to their drainage system, and they are responsible for relocating it if found on your land. Assuming there is none, have you worked out where you would put yours, and most importantly if the ground is appropriate in porosity and area? it may be unviable.

It does you need to read the manual. I have attached a spreadsheet that allows to match different mixes of series and parallel solar panels to different immersion heaters to get the correct response from both the PV and immersion. Solar PV Calculator (1).xlsx

I'm quite happy to offer my insights, as I'm now sat in a warm, low cost house thanks to a lot of research, reading and input from Build hub. My initial build materials changed considerably after my research on here, and fortunately as I drew everything cost me only time.

So apologies to @Mr Blobby, but having never done it before, this is why I think I'll get a better result on my windows than the average window fitter.

Not read all the recent replies, but the members who have replied give sound advice (usually). You could look into fitting an Air to Air Heat Pump (A2AHP). That was it will be cheaper to heat the place, then ventilate the bollocks out the place, with or without heating recovery. There are a number of different A2AHPs. Some are cheap, others are expensive, and some are fitted inside only with a couple of holes drilled through the walls. Quite a few people on here have fitted them, and one member has one fitted in his static caravan. The VLC, (vapour control layer) in the UK climate is fitted on the inside, which is why ventilation becomes important. It is there to protect the building, not the occupants (they should know about ventilation, but many don't, living in an airtight house takes a bit of getting used to). ST also means solar thermal, a technology that is not used much now as PV (photovoltaic) is cheaper and generally more useful. I am sure with a bit more detail about your mother's home, we can, collectively, get it warmer, dryer, and cheaper to run. All without putting the dog in an outside kennel, where it should be.

We are also Northumberland - new build Timber Frame. Would second all the views to spend on Insulation and airtightness (passivhaus standards) Our pre plaster board airtightness test was 0.42 and took a lot of effort on our part and the builder to get right. Despite having a ‘turnkey’ build we have spent time virtually everyday on making sure everything is as we want it - including investing in a thermal camera to check insulation and potential cold bridges; this will be the most performant house our builder will have finished so he’s learnt a lot as well.

This is exactly what we asked for at the start and hoping we will acheive. I pulled those U value numbers from the the schedule of works the QS drew up so that might just be him using the building reg values for England but I will need to ask. I can't tell you how helpful/interesting this is. So much of the process so far has been a mystery to me so it's great to speak with people like yourselves and understand what's actually being proposed!

These values would not pass Scotland new build target. Max wall is 0.15 - I think you need to push for better levels of insulation, this will reduce your heating requirements further making GSHP illogical. IMHO You need to advise your experts, that you want to achieve push for passive house levels of insulation and Airtightness, without the associated costs of Passive house. I was on a tight budget, but planned to better max U values, and achieve 1 or less ACH. You only get one chance to get this bit correct. I managed my goals and budget with tweaking the design and flexibility with material selection.

Trouble with DC you need to get a balance system, if the impedance (think that's the correct term) isn't the same you get rubbish output. Also to get the best out of PV you could do with mppt. Not cheap but does what you want out the box https://www.windandsun.co.uk/products/my-pv-elwa-dc-immersion-heater

Are you going to be on site managing the project making sure everyone is doing what they should be doing every day? If so the the open book or managing subbies yourself can work, but otherwise the costs can run away and you can end up paying for phantom labour!

It’s crap yes but also normal for fitters to even discard the fitting kits and do what they always do. We used straps screwed to the windows as this is what our window supplier specified. It’ll probably be fine just check the warranty isn’t impacted.

The plastic is a Vapour control layer (VCL) which is designed to stop 'interstitial condensation (water vapour condensing out in the insulated wall 'sandwich). Unless you are planning to change completely the 'moisture behaviour' of your Mum's house no, you do not necessarily need to remove it, but if you are adding more insulation internally you might, as you would then install a VCL on the 'warm side' (just behind the plasterboard) of that new insulation. Edit: Was typing while @Crofter typed.

Plastic should be installed on the warm side of any insulation, to prevent moist air from entering the insulation and condensing as it reaches the cooler outside layers. Especially important in timber frame buildings, but it's always good to keep your insulation dry.

PIV = Positive Input Ventilation, as described by Andehh

So you will almost certainly require both planning permission and a building control permission. You are likely to need a steel support in the wall you wish to open up. I would however at this stage get a builder around. They are likely to be able to tell you what is required. Based upon your pics, it’s highly likely they will need to raise the ceiling height of the conservatory. A builder will likely be able to advise whether they can do that or not as the conservatory structure might not be suitable for a new proper roof and MIGHT require to be rebuilt as a more robust structure and more substantial foundations to take a proper roof. If you’re replacing that plastic roof with a proper roof that will reduce light into your dining area. You need to think about getting light into that area. my comments are all just ifs and maybes though, until you get professionals in. be of no doubt this work will be a major disruption to you and quite a big job if you want it done right. Including moving the WC. you’ll have to put a mini temp kitchen in your livingroom during such a build. everything you wish to do is possible. If you have the money to do it.

Thank you everyone - in answer to a few points: Yes we are on that right now, been trawling through advice on here to make sure I understand what they come back with (my guess is the 15kva transformer 100m away, serving two farmsteads, needs upgrading to more like 50kva, will definitelty need new cabling from pole to buildings to be converted (c.50m) and possibly new cables coming up the hill depending on what they are). I like the idea of the GSHP due to efficiency, lower input costs and given we own land around can use coils rather than boreholes so slightly less expensive than most but I 100% hear you and this is up for debate currently. The house itself has been designed to near passivhaus standard so we're ok on airtightness and performance for each. Regards PV - we have an EV so always have somewhere to put it and given these panels are cheaper than the slate the planners have stipulated we're keen to maximise! We YI esNE65 8AX.YeI Our budget is not all of our money (too conservative for that!) but is the amount we feel is appropriate to spend and we are going main contractor route so I don't end up going prematurely grey and being miserable (might happen anyway though!). We're working through the spec with the architect, builder, QS and SE to make savings but will be sure to ask on here for anything we're not sure about.

Also get that DNO estimate in ASAP - I had the shock of my life when it came back at £70k the other day. Granted it was for three-phase, but better to be safe than sorry!

+1 to this

Firstly Welcome welcome! Congratulations on the planning. Secondly STOP! Hit the brakes for a minute. Please post the spec sheet of the build and some de-identified drawings. I can already see a £10k saving from your first post. I suspect collectively the "hub" can save you much more. Thirdly, be realistic with your budget and labour. You have a young family, time is precious with them. Overcommitting yourself financially and in terms of time will make the build miserable and home life strained. Good luck!

Ask the contractor if you can go and see a recent previous job The difference in finish can be pretty obvious and it’s not always the most expensive that’s best

I don’t believe any type of survey,will provide the layout of the drainage field. what you can find out is the start of it, the second it branches of into a herringbone pattern then I think you will have problems with the camera. you will be able to plot the tank location and the direction of travel of the pipe, then the beginning of the drainage field. I would have thought just standing in the garden you would get a reasonable idea where it would be. but before you spend £300, what would happen if it’s not where you would like it. if for instance it travels too far into your plot, but would be ok being further back to the boundary, how will this be achieved. would the vendors be willing to relocate it closer to the boundary is there room to put it in their land. could you install a new one and share it. I think I would ask all these questions, because as soon as you find out it’s not where you want it, it’s game over unless you have a solution already in place.

I should have been more clear. They have split their large garden into two and got planning approval for a new dwelling at the side of their current house.

Listen to Gus. When we were buying our rural plot there were no services on-site or nearby other than electricity. The vendor had vague notes in the sales particulars about water could be provided via a borehole on the plot or ‘nearby’ same with sewerage (treatment plant and soakaway) I made it a condition of the sale that they had to find a plentiful supply of potable water ‘on the plot’ and carry out a land survey to ensure the ground was suitable for a soakaway located within the regulations although, in the end, I carried out the land survey. The plot was worthless without these services easily (cost effectively) being available.

Good for you as you are thinking about things. I note you provide no details on the boundary wall and what is behind that! a Church? .. but no other info.. levels etc. This is the key.. you can't destabalise your Neighbours house or garden. If you can let us see what is over your boundary in a bit more detail.. just get it out now in the first wash.. Yes you see a terraced garden.. I see stepped / battered ground that the previous owner has planted up, and probably messed about with.. look at the crib wall! maybe already dug away ground that leads me to think that it (the stepped ground) was there for a reason. You have a timber crib wall.. date that and you'll probably see that previous owners have already pushed the boundaries a bit. I think you know deep down that if you want to level things up it will cost a lot.. I think you need to draw some cross sections that also show the ground on the other side of the boundary and where the other structures are, put some dimensions to all of this before anyone on BH can give some meaningfull input. Sometimes I look at a set of photos and think.. what is not included! if you want some advice then provide this information and enough detail so folk on BH can chip in with good site specific advice as opposed to try to second guess what you are thinking and what lies on the other side of your boundary wall.

I might be missing something, but why would there be one before the house is built? Unless it’s a demolish and rebuild? Or is it a brownfield site? Or does it have planning permission and digging has been started?

Thank you all for your replies - I thought I might have been missing something, so I'm much happier about pushing back, but they are now saying they will need to do a room by room heat loss calculation. If that is the case I am going to treat them like I treated the window company and make them come and measure it all themselves 🙂 I dealt with MCS some years ago on the supplier side and didn't much like the "one approach fits all scenarios" position that was taken then and this does not seems to have been updated. There is no flexibility in the system for some of the types of houses we are building.

I think it would be worth getting a topo survey done so you can see what you have got. You can then work out what you would like (bin store, clothes drying, bbq , seating etc) and plan the space and areas and how they will connect. Is this a DIY project?

Some of it does seem that way. and the barn isn't their first time build by the looks of it either. So as they say "I'm Out!". For anyone getting the wrong impression from these videos: You need building control and an SE. An SE report for planning saying that the building can be converted is NOT saying that no upgrade is required. The building has been designed for cattle or tractors and has no factor of safety. Agricultural buildings do fall down, but commercial steel buildings don't. Something to think about lying in bed when the wind is howling, and the building is creaking, unless done properly.

Fig 2 has a curve already built in.