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A clean and touch up paint now . Looks good I think

If it's a 165mm blade, go for 40t+. I use these. 24tfor ripping and first fix, 40t for fine. Trend CraftPro Triple Pack of Medium/Fine Finish TCT Saw Blades for DC390, DWE007, DCS391, DC391N Circular Saws, 165mm x 20mm Bore, 24 & 40 Teeth, Tungsten Carbide Tipped, CSB/165/3PK/C https://amzn.eu/d/hp07Ddg

If unvented yes, no Legionella risk with chlorinated mains water that's not exposed to atmosphere or contamination.

You need a structural engineer

If it’s worktop you are cutting and the edge is on show ,cut it 10mm approx from line with jigsaw then finish with router and clamped straight edge.You then have an edge you can laminate .

Can you not find the details of this from public records or the previous owner ?

I know . Wish @Thorfun would listen to me ! . @Conor it worked really well - you’re a legend like me 😊👍

Each January, I pack away the decorations, tape the tops shut and store in the attic. Each December I find all tapes are unstuck. It must be the February chill or the summer heat. I regard tapes as temporary fixings.

A crosscut blade, highest number of teeth for the diameter you can get. The 6-1/2 inch ultra thin blades are fantastic

You are slightly confusing the discussion by talking about a "reed relay" Those do exist but they are not what you want. you want a "reed switch" that is just a switch that closes when it gets near a magnet. You might find the contact rating a bit low for your needs so you might need to use the reed switch to switch an conventional relay to turn the lights on. My personal preference in that situation would be to reverse in. Reversing out you are putting the rear end of your car in danger before you can see if anything is coming. That is actually safer at night because you hope they would have lights on so you should see someone coming. If you were building that house now they would insist you had turning space so you could enter and then leave in forward gear.

I seem to remember that storage heater bricks (Feolite) are about double the capacity of sand/stone/brick/concrete/earth. They are properly designed not only to store extra energy, but not degrade when in contact with a electrical element at 800°C+. Just found this on Stackexchange about Feolite specific heat = 920.0 J·kg−1·°C−1, density = 3,900 kg·m−3, thermal conductivity = 2.1 W·m−1·°C−1. maximum operating temperature 1000 °C So a bit better than brick on the SHC, but due to the much higher density than sand, the volumetric capacity is higher, about 1 kWh/m3.K Just a bit better than sand at 0.6 kWh/m3.K. I think I may have made an error in the conversion, but not in favour of sand. The reason storage heaters can store more energy is that the bricks are very hot >200°C. Commercial sand systems also also stored at higher temperatures, but a domestic system in an polypropylene/polyethylene container is limited to about 70°C.

completely agree with this comment, second this

Or fit an PIR sensor to the lights.

As above, disabled it for the given reasons. I might run it once a month if we have guests & need an extra boost of extra hot water anyway!

If it is worktop, cut it face down.

Yes, the firrings need to be 40-50mm minimum when perpendicular. Run the firrings at 400 centres and you can use 18mm sheets. I have bought firrings at 1:60 and this seems fairly standard. You could always have a gutter either side and a ridge in the middle.

It did come up as the history behind the objections from neighbour were highlighted. The planning department indicated that Right to Light issues is a civil matter.

With mine, an LG ASHP I turned off all the settings in the heat pump to automatically use the immersion heater. A well respected former member did a very good analysis that if you are on treated mains water, you can be sure there are no bugs in the water supply, and if the cylinder is unvented, no way for bugs to enter, so no need for a legionairs cycle. Different matter if you are on a private water supply or have a vented water tank fed from a header tank. I can still turn my immersion heater on manually should I need it, and in any event surplus solar PV automatically goes to the immersion heater.

You may want the immersion as backup or to dump any solar you may have? No need to switch it right off if the legionella cycle has been disables as it just won't get used unless it's wanted.

I always wanted a Goblin Tea Maid.

@SteamyTea Nick, your point is valid, but I can only take small steps. I'll update this in a week or so, when I have reworked by optimisation algos and got some initial results.

Amount of print time was insane - but done !

Thank you for the reply. If you hear anything further please let us know. Finger's crossed. in the mean time I'm faced with having to pay £6.5 - 8k / sqm to purchase a property in the Brighton / Lewes area, which leads me to think the current planning / property system is broken.

Agree, and i would be happy if my taping efforts are redundant. But once done i wont know either way. The size of the task is worth it to me.

Welcome to the forum I would break this out into a separate question in an appropriate area on the forum. Otherwise the question will just get missed.

No big family houses?

They will if you pay. I currently pay 65p/day, £237.25 a year, part of which is for network upgrades. I have recently paid £200 to put my car on the road for a year, I want a larger road between my house and work, not going to happen at £200 a year.

50mm isn't enough for UFH, it'd probably work but wouldn't be efficient. You need at least double that. Can the slab be dug out? Only a couple days work, tool hire and a skip for the builder? Not all insulation is the same, PIR is the better kind so ensure you use that not the generic polystyrene you've got there.

Why are you paying a right to light surveyor to come out? It has already been granted planning permission, and planners seemingly took this into account. Are you planning to change the design and submit a new application based off the new assessment? If you're not, then what benefit will the new assessment be to you? Do you have an example of a single case anywhere in the UK where someone has been granted planning permission, built to their approved design, and then been successfully sued by their neighbour for loss of light? If not, what exactly are you worrying (and spending money) about?

@Canski Check out @Russdl how he cut the firrings and set up a basic Skill saw.. gold dust! Now you have my techy bit and someone who has been there and worn the tee shirt on site.. will this work for you?

The public information is the key plus you need to go to the council and library archives and possibly pay for a search on what if any consented alterations have been made to the house next door. You may find that the neighbours have made unauthorised alterations and that may explain their reluctance to engage. How deep have you delved into the public records? I always advise to play something like this off a straight bat. Go right back and make sure you have all the basic facts correct. It sounds brutal but if they have made alterations without consent then these don't count.. just don't warn them in case they get restrospective consent before you get your submission in.. Once you establish that you are on a sound footing and you work from there. The right to light calculations are complex when close to a boundary and they vary depending on how your project will impact on say a utility room next door or a bedroom / habitable space often called an office but still a habitable apartment. You also have over shaddowing that applies to say external spaces and privacy.. looking into their windows. This requires diplomacy as you are going to have to live next door and you don't want to fall out big time in an ideal world.. but you if you can establish what you are entitled you have a basis on which to negotiate your way ahead..as you have other things to deal with as follows.. Can you post the soil investigation report and a plan of the site showing where the tree is? What is the height of the tree, what is the trunk diameter 1.0 m above the ground, how far does the canopy extend, what is the orientation of the site in relation to the tree. It's important to understand where the tree gets it's structural support to resist the prevailing wind and nutrients from.. (which could be from a diferent direction). Then you can take view on where the roots grow and the impact it will have on your founds. Your SE is playing safe and sticking to the BC and NHBC guidance.. probably because you have not paid them enough to look at this in greater detail. Pay them an extra five / seven hundred quid to sort this out, provide a bespoke Engineering solution for your site and they could save you thousands. A bespoke solution would require your SE to have sufficient expertise in this area which not all SE do have. Can you cut the tree down and wait 18 months before building?.. a brutal approach but we are taking money here and not one I would advocate as a first option.. but if the tree is old / diseased that may be the best approach. You could go to an Arborist for a tree report that covers root propegation and life expectancy of the tree.. why adopt a complex found design if the tree is on it's last legs.. trees die like all of us! I think your SE is being cautious here as probaby does not have a lot of info to go on. Work on the premis that you'll need to some PWA notification, don't let this drive your initial design assumptions. Any pile or found that adds significant extra stress to ground you don't own basically requires consideration under the PWA. Screw piles do indeed mitigate the need for deep excavations.. but they come with potentially significant problems later on.. there is no free lunch. I would go for the simple stupid type found, get a handle on the tree, gather the facts on the neighbours position in terms of light, don't panic and take it a step at a time.

The concept is great. For example there are folk on BH that have large plots.. access to excavators as part of their day job, space to dump the muck away and so on and this could make things cost efective. On a small scale I have UF in a structural concrete slab on a well insulated perimeter wall. I know I'm heating the dumpling of clay soil in the middle of the house.. like a battery.. I notice it as going into winter we need to pump in a bit of heat to dry out the concrete slab above the insulation.. and warm the dumpling below.. it takes about a month to settle and after that all things being equal the energy input drops off. As on clay there is no ground water flow that carries the heat away. I'm sure I have some kind of low temperature battery / heat store .. just can't prove it.

Just watched this episode. I don't have a problem with the size if it. If someone can afford it and that is what they want best of luck to them. Although it took longer than their plan, there were not any major blunders with the build. But what did get me quite angry and shouting at the television was this Passive House Plus. The house has to generate 4 times the power it uses. That's a very laudable aim and one you would hope would be achievable. And it is the achievable bit that got me angry and shouting, because where I am, and in countless other places it would simply NOT be achievable. Not because I don't want to, but because the DNO would not allow it. They did touch on this in one sentence right at the end, the DNO export limit in this case is limiting them to about 2.5 times what the house uses. That is way better than what I am allowed, but still it shows the infrastructure and the red tape is holding back proper domestic scale self generation. And the £100K plus cost of the roof PV system would be another deal breaker for me. If programs like this keep on showing that domestic scale self generation is being hampered by an under funded under capacity grid, and stupid red tape, then perhaps, just perhaps the situation might improve.

Thanks for the appreciation.. but practically and on site when the pressure is on.. the sequencing of works could fry everyone's brains.. and if it "forgotten" about it could cause havoc later on. Mind you this is the advantage of self building and keeping an element of control.. if you put the work in early and understand what you need to do and when then you can tackle the whacky and present it as simple to the builders.. which helps stops them adding on daft costs. I can see this might suit the home automation folks on BH.. its a free duct (apart from the fabrication of the cap and notching at the base) so can you put something in it!

Ah, build a passive house proper out of stuff that used to be plants. Then use an ASHP and some PV and you're punching.

Looking at that picture, things could be deceiving, and that design could be simplified and costs cut significantly. Imagine if all the overhanging areas were just the roof and the deck/ patio area. The actual house punches through the patio area and goes directly to the ground, so could sit on fairly normal foundations, then at the floor level a lightweight steel frame projects out to create the deck area, this sits on columns that go straight up to roof level and pick up the oversailing roof. It depends really on @Matt Darey budget, he didn’t seem that keen when I said it would involve lots of steel and concrete.

Just been taking a look on the battery stats and heat pump energy usage. GivTCP set the charge last night to 62% (my defined min for this time of year), 00:30 to 07:30 is E7 period, so during that period the battery does not contribute to the house, everything is taken from the grid. Has been a pretty good solar day, 12.9kWh generated. During the E7 period, we imported 17.55kWh, for charging the battery, running heat pump and other house stuff (MVHR, treatment plant compressor etc). By 2pm the battery is at 100%, solar generation has almost stopped by 3pm and battery starts to discharge to the house. We exported 3.5kWh (this will go to hot water next week) From the ASHP electric meter (last 24hrs) we used 15kWh (last night down to zero, today although sunny didn't go over 6 deg), currently 2 degs outside. Heat pump has just ran for 2.5hrs straight with 2 defrost cycles. After cooking our tea, we have 62% battery still remaining.

I saw this in action yesterday. A petrol station had tubes supporting the gantry, and the rainwater pipes disappeared inside them. I hope they were plastic all the way to the drainage system or the steel will rust. btw the pipes were made of spiralled steel plate, like a toilet roll inner is made, but 500dia, painted red and rather splendid.

Still under discussion apparently, but unlikely to be implemented any time soon, unless it is going to win them the election, and in reality it doesn't affect enough people so don't hold your breath

You're on the right tracks. As I understand it, when you've got long runs of cable where a 'live' conductor is run for a distance alongside one that is not (as in 2 or 3 way switching), then a 'ghost' voltage can be induced. Not enough to give you a shock, or to light an incandescent lamp, but it can make some LED's glow. I've come across it a few times, but always when there is 2,3,4 etc way switching in place. Not so much lately though, I think the better manufacturers have got a handle on it now. You need a 'snubber', such as this one from TLC. Connect in parallel with the load. It'll need to go inside an enclosure/light fitting/switch if there's room. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DNCAPLOAD.html

You can break out a fairly large area of slab without issues. The slab could just be concrete oversite. Hopefully there is no rebar / mesh. Better to have a bit of wiggle room.

Quite nice with the light on

I agree that its would be 'possible' however it would be a really bad idea to render directly onto the outside surface of any SIPS system or timber frame wall construction, even ones faced with a cement based board. It's a much better idea in the wet climate that we have here in the UK to use a rainscreen in front of the SIPS. The rainscreen should create a ventilated cavity between the SIPS and the rainscreen layer. In British Columbia, Canada between 1985 and 2000 approx 50% of all buildings that were rendered directly onto timber framed external walls have subsequently failed. The repair costs exceed $4 billion. They subsequently altered their building codes to make rainscreen construction mandatory for timber bulidings. Google link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leaky_condo_crisis

Hi, I have a DIY install for PV that I was happy to use a non MCS accredited installer to save cost as the SEG tariff was so low. However I read in Aug that Octopus Energy were going to offer 15p as a fixed outgoing tariff AND would accept just the EREC G99 declaration, as submitted to the DNO by the installer, to allow you to join up. Ive been trying now for several weeks to actually join up but get rejected and it seems there has been a change of policy at Octopus and only MCS or Flexi Orb certified installs are being accepted. They are suggesting as an alternaitive that I can add my name to a list for a £250 admion fee for future consideration withou any commitment as to when. Has anybody else managed to join an outgoing tariff without MCS certification? Is there a way to get a system retrospecitively certified by an MCS registered installer? Any ideas much appreciated.

😂predictive text has mauled my presumed misspelling of ‘submission‘

Holy sh1t, somebody followed my advice.

I like it, would make an awesome aquarium

What the (expletive deleted) is it. I used to make models out of fag packed and Swan Vesta boxes when I was a kid. My favourite box was the one that my Mother's vacuum cleaner came in, has Goblin on the side. Three ways to interpret that.

Passed at what level. 0.2 or 5? I passed my driving test, crashed sister's car 2 nights later, then my motorbike, twice, then my father's brand new car, got banned twice for my troubles. Then, at 20 years old, I got glasses and it all seemed to stop happening.