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Note how most NIMBYs are adequately housed. Trying to stop those who aren't.

I'd go with Part M, controls between 750 & 1000mm: Doc M Shower Pack Details & Layout Guide.pdf

I have been logging temperature data from a dozen probes across the system: hall temp, the outs and returns from the slab, the willis, etc. ever since we started using the CH system after we moved in in late 2017. I have started an exercise to mine this data in order to calibrate a simple heating model which gives a reasonable fit to actual house performance. Take an example, the current heating algo computes the predicted heating time, and when the external temperature is low, this is invariably more than 7 hours, so this first 7 hours is dumped in during the E7 off-peak window , with any remaining heat only added if the internal hall temperature fall below a preset (~22°C). This sometimes doesn't happen if the hall was slightly warmer than average at the midnight rollover. So I have a bunch of days where the external temp was ~5 °C and the house was only heated from 0-7 UTC. I can average these out to get a typical house response curve for this initial condition. Ditto when the external temp was ~10°C, say, though in this case I need to group by actual heat input. as the CH system is on for less than 7 hrs. Also in warmer periods, the unheated slab still typically hovers at about half a degree cooler than the hall; this is because the ground is at ~10 °C below the slab, so there are still heat losses to ground, this set of reading can give me an estimate of these. Anyway, I'll crank the numbers over this next week or so, and the next post here will be on what I've found. One quick spoiler: my actual overall heat losses are about 50% more than what the simple JSH approach predicts. So the as-built house is only low energy rather than true passive-class: we need ~20-25 kWh daily top-up in the peak winter months instead of 10 kWh or so, but this is still many factors less than a typical 2018 house of our size.

And another couple of pictures of the stations..

Hi all - I know this is very late after these original posts but it seemed the right thread - I'd been debating Aerobarrier https://www.aerobarrieruk.co.uk for some time, I really wanted to build a house that's as efficient as possible but was stuck with a traditional build (brick and block)... My builder knew this and supported me with air tight roof membranes, parge coat, and air tight tapes to all windows and doors but I didn't think this would get me as far as I wanted - the passive 0.6ach I spent quite a bit of time on the phone with the folk at Aerobarrier who were really patient with me as I asked them lots of questions to deal with my internal debates, but eventually took the plunge - the cost wasn't crazy so I had convinced myself to give it a go... The Aerobarrier team spoke with my builder a few weeks before to run through all the work he had completed and they had agreed that the best stage to do this work was pre-plaster so my builder was a little concerned at what the initial test result would come out at! The team spent most of the day on site, initially checking the completed work, and then using an air heater to warm the house (which helps with the sealant), the kit consists of several 'stations' set up around the house which is a computer controlled mist that comes through nozzles on tripods which contains the sealant. The initial test on the house came out at 1.84ach which we were fairly happy with, the team then kick the process off and I watched the house fill with the sealant, which runs for about 2 hours, as it's going you can start to see the numbers drop as very small holes are plugged, after a while a member of the team entered the house to spot larger holes (you can see where a lot of sealant is attracted to the holes as it forms a white mass) and manually sealed these leaving the process to continue to run... And... The result for me was an amazing 0.41ach at the end of the day and this is pre plaster and floor tiles which I hope will at least keep me at this level - A very happy end result for me. I thought I'd share my experience with you all as I know this is newish to the UK - I'll be waiting for my final post build air test now and making sure no new holes are made in the envelope! I've included a couple of pictures which may help give a view of what I've explained about, happy to take any questions....

Has Openreach flown a cable across your property and not provided you with any information on objecting to the cable? Some parts of Openreach seem not aware of the latest legislation regarding their rights and OBLIGATIONS when flying cables over private property. It has taken me months to get a cable moved and this is some information which may help in getting a cable you object to moved. First, based on my experience, don’t waste time with their complaints procedure which is tedious, difficult and obstructive and you’ll be responded to with a barrage of technical and legal bullshit telling you why they have flown the cable legally and why it can’t be moved. Send a signed for letter to the CEO and if you get nowhere, raise it with your MP. The applicable legislation as at the end of 2023 is Schedule 1 of the Digital Economy Act 2017. This supercedes parts of the Communications Act 2003. When flying an overhead cable Openreach has to comply with paragraph 75 which is a duty to attach a notice. This should provide an address to which you can send you objection to the cable. Openreach are committing an offence if this notice is not provided. Openreach apparently haven’t instructed their engineers to leave these notices. If they don’t leave a notice, write to Openreach and ask for the details that should have been on this note. The right to object is described in Part 12 which is paragraphs 78 to 81. If the cable is impacting your enjoyment of your land and it would be possible for the cable to re-routed without the re-routing resulting in another landowner being impacted and without Openreach incurring substantial additional cost, the county court can instruct Openreach to move it and there is provision within the legislation for the county court to award you costs. So, before allowing Openreach to bully you, make sure you have read the legislation and be prepared to take them to court.

I am rather self taught in chemistry. I have to reduce it all to the physics, then it starts to make sense. The biggest problem is there are 118 elements, and about 20 words to describe how they attach to each other. Then it is a memory test, and makes no sense to me at all. My last school chemistry teacher was a Born Again Christian, a complete twat of a bloke who put me off the subject for 40 years, even though I used chemicals every days at work for 30+ years.

Basically the dT for the floor moves from being internal room temp compared to ground temp, to water flow temp to ground temp. You basically need double the insulation for UFH compared to radiators to have an equal downwards heat loss.

Lithium batteries are not pure lithium in its metallic form. Then there is the graphite, manganese, cobalt or phosphorus anode. Typical chemistries are: LiCoO2 LiFePO4 LiMn2O4 Li2MnO3 (LiNiMnCoO2 It is the last molecule that is important as it has oxygen attached. Oxygen is a tart of an element and will easy swap to the hottest element available, so it may not need free oxygen in the air to sustain a fire. Yes, how many cars have we seen explode? I have probably driven 1.5 million miles, been a passenger for probably half a million more. Never seen a car explode, though have seen a few burnt out ones. I can't remember which car it was in the USA that had a habit of exploding when rear ended, think the motor industry started taking secondary safety seriously then.

I normally align shower controls (and light switches) with the door handles.

So long as there isn't the opportunity for movement in it is not a huge deal.. Provided you don't have a history of badgers or similar in the area, they can make a real mess of cables on the ground Make sure it's thoroughly fixed at each end and I don't just mean a tight cable gland. If there's the potential for it to be yanked or stood on, you don't want it being pulled out of its terminals. I saw a sweeping bend of swa rip out of a DB because a labourer was bumping over it with a wheelbarrow of concrete.. Doesn't take much to cause a problem if its not fixed properly

I concur.

Well it’s meant to be adequately supported it’s entire length, so if it was in a duct it would supported, if it’s laying on the floor it’s the same but the reg warriors would say it’s needs clipped every xxx cm. I wouldn’t worry about it

I read that. But I'd think also quite easy to encase. Fires need oxygen So on balance good? If only car parks (and tunnels and basements) allow for this. Sprinklers can act very locally and that is the enc of the small iniyial fire. I know a lot of car parks have sprinklers, because they are designed by small people and I hit my head on them.

>>> If we take the current design to full planning permission and they reject garage position will they reject the whole design or could they say no to garage yes to house. Depends on how good an LPA they are. Most LPAs would 'negotiate' with you over the garage position if they thought the overall proposition was good. You might check the government stats for LPAs to see where they fall in the league tables - which may give an indication on whether they're in crisis mode or not. I'm surprised that your architect has already given you their opinion on this point though. Press them?

If you keep the lime tree, don't park anywhere near them as the sap is hard to remove.

If the planners don't like your proposal they will often contact you and suggest an amendment to the plans so you could move the garage if it was an issue. It may be worth showing what you could build under PD, as this could include additional outbuildings and an extra storey. In reality you are doing the right thing by demolishing as you get a much better product. Don't make the Council Tax a major factor in your decision making. Seems odd that it can't be removed from the register for 8 months if you don't demolish before February. I would question that.

I would just cut the cable with a nice long pair of loppers. Good to have the information. Thanks for posting.

That comment smacked me on the face like a wet fish. Bang on.

Not always true, for example Daikin hybrid, the heat pump just ties into the existing boiler. The Alpha one is just copying what Daikin have been offering for a decade. My ASHP (Maxa/Viessmann) has all the controls built in, with full control if how the circulation pump responds, so hydraulic sepereration isn't needed. It's all run weather compensated, so smaller, original radiators are fine, the really cold weather the original boiler takes over. However if you go hybrid no grants are available, which puts most off.

The ideal temp is as low as it will go without actually running out of hot water. The other thing is set your timing to heat the cylinder, either in a low price period if you have a low rate tariff or towards the middle of the day when it's likely to be warmest outside so you get the best CoP. Worst time to heat without a low tariff period is first thing in the morning, when it's likely to be the coolest outside.

These were in cooling mode, usually a low (ish) output speed, the high speed settings bugged us even more. No idea of models, sorry. One may have been a Mitsubishi the other a Toshiba. Efficiency is great, coming home to a nice cool space is good, when it's mid 30s outside, we only really noticed the annoying drafts when we we sat watching the TV and in bed. We ended up getting used to sleeping with the unit off in the bedroom.

Is that German. The First Mates name was Carter By God he was a farter When the wind would not blow And the ship would not go They used Carter the Farter to start her.

Assuming it is definitly all garden and not mixed or agricultural... This is from 2020 so might be dated.. https://www.herrington-carmichael.com/sdlt-treatment-of-garden-land/ And..

Your bog standard multi split with wall units

https://www.gov.uk/stamp-duty-land-tax Im in Scotland and we were advised it was treated the same banding as purchase of house when we were looking, we got lucky and purchased uninhabitable house and paid 0 stamp duty but was told to keep an amount handy incase it was challenged later.

From memory Up to 150k is exempt

Quite a few years ago now, I lived somewhere that was getting a large housing estate built directly behind my back garden. The lib dems came a-knocking with a petition to get it stopped and just could not comprehend the idea that I was actually in favour of it being built. Poor souls.

Basics of my system are a borehole pump feeding an accumulator. So I do get good flow. Pipe from boiler is 15mm to a manifold. Water then goes to each wet room. Could with a bit of fine tuning run 3 showers just. You can flush the loo while in the shower with no affect in the shower. One thing you need to do - remove the flow restrictor at the cold water inlet to the boiler. This restricts flow when it's winter and by default in the summer. Intergas was on my list originally, most Dutch combi boilers seem ok for pre heat. Couple of things to read attached the photo is the preheat cylinder sold by Alpha boilers (25 and 50L). You can add an immersion to the 50L.Canetis-SuperFlow-Product-Sheet-WE-050318.pdfCombi-SuperFlow-White-Paper-v1-2-4.pdf

Quick update, fired a few question over to natural green heat and got a reply almost instantly so ordered the system (duct and plenums) Shortly after ordering got a call from them explaining how the Heatpex system goes together and confirming it’s all ready to be shipped! I can’t remember the chaps name who I spoke to but he was extremely knowledgeable on the product, gave me the company backstory and I’m glad jayc89 put me onto them👍 For anyone contemplating 75mm or 95mm ducting pick up the phone to them for some good honest advice. Companies like this are rare so we have to keep them going🫡

Put everything down on paper, especially if he's assuming H&S roles and responsibilities.

I would temper that with, a remark on noise and overall reliability. Also support and spares if things aren't quite right. I bought my units from eBay but expensive units for super cheap prices. One unit had an issue, got great support from Titon and had the spares in two days. Set it up per building regs then once signed off, used the setback setting, which knocks fan speed down to between min speed and current speed setting. Rarely use boost, totally silent, zero drafts, monitor CO2 in master bedroom and lounge - zero issues. Runs 24/7, nothing smart, manual boost switches. Complex controls if you like, but no need.

Lol I just stood in my shower cubicle and went “ yeah there will do “ - I won’t measure it .

Cars? By the time the planners have approved the schemes the powers that be will have us all cycling around our "15 minute" cities wearing hand knitted jumpers made on our own hand looms using wool from the sheep grazing on all the green spaces promised and shown on artist's impressions of all new developments. Cars will be for authorised users only on production of the appropriate permit. Oh hang on got confused....that last bit was soviet russia not green policy. Sorry.

Thankfully be of the QUANTUM processes in my MIND, I can generate my own ELECTRICITY. This saves me £££ every day. By HARNESSING these COSMIC VIBRATIONS I can SURVIVE a WHOLE DAY without buying any ELECTRITY from the CORPORATIONS that have been RIPPING US OFF for DECADES. Before I get SHUT DOWN, I MUST tell you that I have INVENTED a way to HEAT YOUR HOME without NATURAL GAS. PHYSICS has had it all wrong because of GOVERNMENTS and BIG BUSINESS not allowing us to use CAPITAL LETTERS. THEY WILL BE STOPPING THE USE OF BOLD TEXT SOON AND BEFORE WE KNOW IT, COLOURED HIGHLIGHTED TEXT. Terms and conditions must be to small to read

You got this @Dee . What I did to boost my confidence is once the tray had set the next day I put some temp pipework off the trap into a bucket . Then gently tipped water into the trap from above . If no leaks it’s a good start ! 👍

^^ That is meant as an END profile, not for the bottom.