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Update: Unfortunately they couldn't finish all the testing as a fair few junction boxes in attic still need finishing and boxing off but they tested what they can and everything has passed except lighting (due to attic work required) and kitchen sockets due to an "earth continuity fault". They asked for the other guy to finish the JBs in the attic and fix the earth fault and they'll return next week to finish up and test the rest as they are working away from tomorrow. Here are a few of the latest pics. The before and afters are amazing when I look at them side by side!

Hi there, A (slightly) shortened version. Hope you like it.

im not decided on insulating the waste pipe though. parasitic heatloss could be a good thing in winter, not sure in summer or even its its worth the cost of the insulation...

Browsing a few datasheets for different types, Water Permeability seems to range from 10 (woven) to 75 (non-woven) l/m2 /s If those units really do mean l/m2 per second then they're all probably just as goo d as each other when sat on a thick clay bed which itself is pretty impermeable. That could be handy in a shallow bed! Really? 😆 Well thanks all. I'm going to go with a woven fabric due to the clay surface it's going on top of. Probably don't even need it as the area has been stripped of topsoil and turf/weeds but cheap enough to do anyway.

This is what I had in mind above. The two 90 degree bends dont need to be vertical but can be rotated to preserve some of the fall for along the pipe if needed. The bits aren't very expensive. I'd get both sizes and see it the 50mm will fit. Perhaps pick up some 45 degree as well in case this helps. With solvent weld I test fit everything without adhesive then put alignment marks on all joints so I can assemble it in my hands rather than trying to do it in situ. A decent amount of adhesive give you a bit more time before it sets up.

Thanks. I appreciate there's more to it than meets the eye but looking at parts and install kit well under 6k mark means 6k + for install and overheads. I've another supplier coming Friday - maybe their quote will be inline and I'm miles away with expectation.

Not if the new porch is insulated to become a part of the house and planning permission is granted. Yes

You could adapt that one. Put a bung in the existing outlet, use a hole saw to cut a new outlet and use a 2" tank connector. Or as suggested, flip it 180⁰, use two 90⁰ bends to bring it back round.

or failing that false walls look better than boxing if you dont mind losing the space. Personally we quite like wall mounted taps and spouts as they stay cleaner longer and false walls make that lot easier.

Natural spring. “Peckham Spring” relaunch opportunities here I think! Either that or there is a significant leak from a water mains nearby.

Old carpet made of wool on jute backing yes. A scabby modern carpet of plastic pile and foam rubber backing, buried in the ground forever, no. Bob flowerdew would surely agree.

Plus one. Will help with airtighess too.

Chill force Dundee

AFAIK - A2A is a different game to A2W, Lots of pressure line work - routing, braising the pressure lines charging/pressurising etc then tidy up with trunking. I wouldn't underestimate complexity esp. if the external to internal is anything more than a straight line through a wall.

IIRC they are Reliance valves but it was several years ago so may be wrong.

To put it in context, think of all the recent coverage re storm water overflows leading to overloaded sewers and spillages. Yes, your roof is only small, but many many thousands of small roofs = a lot of water into combined sewers. I was surprised when I contacted my water authority (one of my fall-pipes draining approx 50m2 of roof discharges to soil with rock below) to be told 'yes, it's fine to connect to the combined sewer'. I realise that I have less chance of a soakaway soaking away than many, but even so...

You can get plastic contraptions which would sit above the insulation, so you can fully fill the eaves but maintain airflow. Lots of options, this is one: https://www.bcprofiles.co.uk/products/manthorpe-refurb-cross-flow-panel-25mm-x-400mm?variant=41199809298595&gclid=CjwKCAjw04yjBhApEiwAJcvNoa3M4krjrGdMNgrGvlf81ewC6oO5Z5D2WW_JDChLhAnnxRZzbbhjnBoClnAQAvD_BwE

Nice cantilever.

We sorted ours out after Building Reg's approval, a couple of months before starting [Jan-20]. We used our local council BC. We started our self build mortgage application when we started, Took a couple of months to sort out. Not sure what we sent them for the application, but by that time we would have full set of approved drawings / spec.

Meant to say ‘I’m’ Loving the design. Although I’m sure my mum would like it too!!

Ah yes, it’s frosted glass. I hadn’t considered that. Should be totally fine then! mum really loving this design. The only concern I really have now is the garden size. I’m assuming the whole house (or even the western side) can’t move south at all as this wouldn’t allow turning space? Could this section of the house just be shortened and widened slightly to give some more garden at the very end? the other thing I was thinking is could the whole eastern part go, but the current entrance hall be slightly wider and contain a small box room study in it somehow?

Ditto to what Dave says. My 5.5pkW array cost £4300 for materials only, so £2k for all the install work is reasonable.

It’s 3.4m x 1.7m

the GSE in roof trays are £65 Solar panels say £160 plus inverter and cables. not a bad price id say. They making £1500-2000 for a days work.

Nothing wrong with it. You need a 450mmx750mm hole to get through. If you’ve got that you should be fine. Cut out a piece of cardboard 450x750 - if that can get through it should be ok.

Afaik the woven fabrics do let water through but at differing rates. The white stuff lets more through again. I did find a research pain the subject once upon a time but don’t know where that is now. the data sheet for the fabric should have details of water permeability rates. might’ve been this one https://onlinepubs.trb.org/Onlinepubs/trr/1981/827/827-001.pdf

As others have said it nigh on impossible to get perfect but I also highly rate Tikkurila Anti Reflex 2 - I have used it on all my celings.

Welcome. 1. Traditional trench footings. 2. Not at all unless you want a raft for some reason. 3. Lots more. I'd guess about £20,000. Oak is an expensive option, especially for a big house. Why do you fancy it? The point of sips is that it structural. I don't see the logic of oak plus sips.

I would put an inspection chamber at the top of the drawing between house and road. Connect 110mm pipe from that to rest bends at the bottom of each stack. Also run 110mm pipe up through the floor under the utility sink. Below the sink use adaptors down to suit the sink waste pipe. How thick are your floors? You appear to have/need to run 110mm pipe from the main bathroom backwards in the floor under the corridor to one of these the 2 stacks. Might be better to have a stack in the bathroom? But you have dining room below? You also have 110mm from one of the ensuites going under the door of the other to get to a stack. Drilling 110mm holes in joists might be possible but can be difficult to get enough fall as well. Yes and I think that's OK. MVHR has a condensation outlet which is small bore. Pressurised heating system have a pressure relief valve and I think that can go to a svp via a tun dish.

I guess you can't turn it 90 degrees because it isn't circular. The trap I mean not the tray. Can you turn it 180 (so the outlet points the wrong way), then make 180 descending bend to get it lower and heading in the right direction? Use 2 large radius bends not sharp 90 degree. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-solvent-weld-bend-92-5-white-50mm/96439

My EV charger is a dumb as a box of rocks, activated each night at 12:30to 04:30 to benefit from the cheaper electricity tariff just the way I like it

I used full width oak sleepers on ours, I bedded the bottom ones on their sides then did the top laid flat like a T I doweled the top to the bottom along with screws from inside upward so they were hidden

We charge our EV 95% from the PV, however the car is at home most of the time during the day. Plus 1 on @SteamyTea comments. The devil is in the detail.

Wish we put batteries in at the time, even though the economics are marginal... I did the calcs for us a month ago. Very similar to yourselves, all electric, last year we used 8.5MWh. 3 of which was self generated and we imported 5.3MWh. Exported 1.5MWh @ 8.5p unit. We've a 5pkW array, and economy 7. Heatpump only runs overnight. Same for dishwasher. Bill for the year after export payments was £1200. I worked out that batteries would save a max of £300 a year at current rates, by shifting to 100% economy 7 and solar. Meaning payback is at least 15 years. I think it's the similar in most other scenarios, the "payback" is much longer than on panels alone. Also think of what that £8k your not spending on batteries could be used for. Do you have an electric car yet?

Have you considered doing it yourself / individual trades? E.g. the roof trays are easy to install (you, roofer or joiner), the panels then drop in to place, optimisers are plug in. Then you just need a competent spark to connect it all together. I did it this way and my 5.2pkW system came in at under £5k installed. (No batteries).

I have never liked the idea having replaced customers waste pipes full of crud which I think could only get worse!

first bbq guaranteed someone will try and swing on it.

invite a coffin dodger for a weeks holiday and claim the free grant for loft insulation.

put the chains inside a downpipe. wont have any problems them!

How many nails and screws get dropped on the average build? I could open a hardware store!

Think I might make that statement my tag line

We are too. 'S a tough ask mate.....

Girls say that too me also

add a few more and make a feature out of them like crazy pathing!

you need a planning consultant to manage the application. They swim in the same circles. Architects are next to useless when it comes to planning, and pretty much everything else...

pointless.