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10mm runs in plastic gives plenty of pressure fir toilets and hand basins, I did do the others in 15mm, including hot. Another advantage of plastic is the straighter runs which give better flow and can be fed in, in one length gently going around obstacles without more joins and bends. I was called to a customer to instal a pump to a shower to increase flow as it was poor, instead I replaced copper pipe with loads of 90’ bends with a sweeping length of plastic with one 90’ bend and the difference was great and no pump needed.

@Onoff few pics as an update. Had 3 fires so far. I lined inner stove walls & back with 30mm firebricks, even so no.1 was literally like a sauna, 34*C in cabin. no.2 I reduced wood to Max half the stove volume, 28*C still a bit hot. No.3 last night 26*C almost ideal. So, it takes a tiny ammount of logs/ super efficient, & I know in coldest winter I can ramp it up a bit & keep warm. Battery lights, ipad with a downloaded 2 progs for a few hrs: warm, offgrid & offline, & free wood too (collected on walks). Every other evening minimum I'll be in here now, as Im far warmer than in house & far cheaper too- truly fantastic results.

I designed a manifold system and used plastic pipe, never done it before but it worked out ok.

This is the guidelines and design criteria. If the clips are secured correctly yes. Now a 2metre long waste pipe blocked up could weigh around 150kgs which many people don’t realise and stick a couple of short screws in poorly drilled holes.

I still love this pic as I think it is the only time in 25+ years I’ve seen the collets used correctly and the correct colour per pipe … It is the only time I’ve seen JG used and installed as per MIs..

I also prefer copper. I took as dislike to push fit when we bought our first static caravan for our first self build and upon connecting the water one by one over the next few days all the push fit fittings blew apart. Yes I know that would have been very old pipe and an inferior cheap push fit system, but it put me off. Then a year or 2 back when i helped a neighbour with leaks, a mouse had got in and was in the inter floor space and by the time the mouse was caught and dispatched, he had gnawed through the plastic water pipe in 3 places. Make your house properly air tight and mice won't get in and that won't be a concern.

@Thorfun if you haven’t already . Get proper pipe cutters 👍

I’ve seen a speedfit fitting leak a few times . You could say wasn’t installed properly. But under stress ( pipe perhaps a bit bent so pulling on the fitting ) I think they can leak . I got a ‘gift’ pack from wavin ( just a tee and 2 pipes ) . I tried my best to make it leak ; I couldn’t .

And that’s why he’s retired… 10mm will easily do 8l/min at 2.5 bar which is more than the maximum allowable under then WRAS / water regulations flow rates. All cold supplies balanced from the control group, WC loop fed from the feed before the control group so a flush doesn’t affect balance. Basins and other taps in 10mm, shower or bath in 15/22 depending on flow requirements.

Is the garage on a separate planning grant or same as one as the house? If its on the same planning grant as a house already started I don't think you need to any work on the garage. If its a separate planning grant then normally its recommended to get BCO approval and dig and fill foundations.

There's something a bit odd about plumbing that always makes me put off doing any for as long as possible - until I finally cave in and dig out the plumbing toolbox. Once started, I don't want to stop. Funny that. I think it's a confidence thing, more so than with other DIY tasks.

the lovely wife bakes lovely cakes if that helps?

The matrix it creates is very fragile when exposed but gains stability in a contained volume. I may be wrong but I think it's more to do with slump prevention than stopping spillage.

Yes they’ll probably ask for it back. If they do I think I have one somewhere in storage you can have for free if I can find it.

The easiest way for the bulk of it, is SAW it to length with a large panel saw while it is still rolled up and bagged. then when you unwrap it, you have rolls of your chosen width to suit your joist / rafter spacing. You only then need to cut to length. The Knauf Frametherm sort is a lot less itchy and irritating than most mineral wolo insulation.

If they do ask for it back, I will refer them to the email telling me "if you joined after December 2019 you must return your kit" If they still insist I will send it back and seek another BT hub with the same USB port from freecycle or not much money on ebay.

yes..! vertical yes, horizontal at 600 centres or every joist but don’t forget your falls

One behind our bath.. The flexible pipe is the bath waste. We can easily move whole bath to mop behind it..

It is a good insulation material, ticks a lot of 'sustainable' boxes as well. The two really big advantages are its sound deadening properties and thermal inertia (sometimes referred to as decrement delay, but if people call it thermal mass, they don't know what they are talking about). Thermal inertia is generally better in materials that have a carbon/hydrogen or an oxygen/hydrogen bond. Get both of those bonds in timber and a lot of organic materials. You can't trick nature.

We used a black high-density acoustic soild pipe which supposedly helped avoid "flush noise" given we have 3 first-floor waste which comes down internally in the ground floor. I don't know how much real difference it made though. One of them still made a lot of noise and we ended up wrapping it in a specialist acoustic pipe wrap which made a very big difference. You don't need pans, but ideally you have frames in. The waste height will depend on height you want toilet at (frames are adjustable), but datasheet will give you standard height. 23cm it seems.

In our bathroom my builder was fretting about all the pipes, taps and spouts he had to fit into the wall. I just told him to batten out the whole wall about 4" rather than part of it. Made the whole thing easier and neater. Battons were covered in hardi backer board. We cut an access hatch behind the free standing bath to get to things like the pressure reducers in the void. Whole wall is covered in travertine.

I am doing a 150mm cavity with beads on a project. The brickwork is getting a coat of StormDry. I will watch the bead installer to make sure they have got to all the voids. I may suggest to them that we will use a thermal image camera on completion.

Experiment with pumping porridge round corners.

Is the land registered? Covenants can either be in the title document at the land registry or possibly in the local land charges register (which normally show up in solicitors searches). Google says the latter are normally financial but I think they can also include the sort of thing you are talking about. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/hm-land-registry-local-land-charges-programme/local-land-charges-programme

my initial soil waste design. it's quality back of fag packet stuff. 😂

BLACK is usually electricity? Unless it is VERY old water pipe. I would call both your local DNO and your local water company and ask them to identify if they are pipes or cables and then ask them to mark their exact course once identified. Try listening either with a stethoscope or just a listening pole, if it's water you should hear some flow.

In our previous house our garden and paddock was part of a larger estate grounds. Our deeds had some restrictive covenants. However, the larger area of land that it once formed part of had other covenants (no livestock) that we only became aware of when we sold it. Therefore, you can’t assume it won’t apply to your garden. Covenants run with the land.

Get it designed right and it will be fit and forget, nothing for the customers to fiddle with.

The whole thing needs to be accessible for servicing. How about a removable panel system which could include a concealed cistern as well, think of what you see in most public toilets.

Also, watch out you are not on a commercial electricity tariff. If so that won't be capped so even more expensive. Details of the property, age construction, No of rooms etc might help. If large, (9 or 10 radiators suggests it is) oil CH may be an option if no mains gas.

Holiday let? So you will pay the bill and guests will not care about leaving heating on and wasting energy. Bad idea to be honest. I'd look at getting gas in there if you have a gas supply or look into a ASHP or you will need to add literally £20's per night stay to cover electricity costs. Unless it is super well insulated and unlikely to need much heating... Is it rural?

Storage heaters, fan heater, panel heaters, infrared, and even oil filled electric heater are all resistance heater. 1 kWh of electricity in, 1 kWh of thermal energy out. Have you considered Air to Air Heat Pumps or maybe a normal ASHP that will also do the hot water.

Easy quick way is to apply for his deeds and your near neighbors I think a online search was about £8 per time when I did last 50 quid will give you a handful of searches

Actually all the fittings are a dog as jubilee clip . Can’t see how to fix it all water tight and have access to remove it if an issue ; yet tight to the wall . Tempted to make the whole lower section of that wall a removable panel . This wc will be tiled . Best solution ??

But will probably agree. Forgot to mention DIN. And WADE, which is just a pisstake name for what happens after they leave.

@Nickfromwales Will be angry with you

You're probably looking at the temperature of the sky. Point an IR thermometer at the sky and it's generally -20 or less. Emissivity also plays a role in that low emissivity surfaces like metals read lower than their surface temperature because the IR sensors only respond to radiation. You can readily see reflections so you may even be seeing a reflection of the sky.

If you get tempted by the Bosch thermometer you’ll be in the ‘Flir 1 Pro’ price territory. Brilliant bit of kit that attaches to the base of your iPhone (I hear rumours that other types of phone exist as well?) Heres one I made earlier of an open bedroom window. Various temps identified, should be self explanatory.

copper will bend as well you know. I don't like using fittings where not needed. My record in our first house was 9 bends in one length of pipe to go round an alcove. It was a little challenging getting the bent pipe out of the bender and then wiggling it into place. Shame I did not photograph it at the time.

Look for @Jeremy Harris recommendation on this board. I agree with the point above: you're looking for relative temperature difference. In a fit of lust, I bought the Bosch colour thermometer a couple of years ago. Works a treat. It's good enough to act as a thermal imager to identify rats 20 meters away. Yes, @SteamyTea, yes, I know.

Reminds me of Mousetrap

Well I used to be old school (copper everywhere ) but our @Nickfromwales converted me to hep20. Manifold and no joins between ends, been brilliant, no problems, 10mm to basins and toilets.

Well we bit the bullet and our CFWN broadband was installed yesterday. We now get a blistering * 45 MBPS download and 20MBPS upload. As well as being faster, it seems more reliable, by that I mean I have had the Pi Music Box quietly streaming Radio Caroline for nearly 24 hours now without a single drop put. Previously it used to stop and start a lot, particularly early evening. There was a little "confusion" with how to cancel the old BT service. The advice from the new provider was cancel your broadband and keep your landline, and when you are ready to migrate the LL to VOIP let us knw and we will transfer it. So I phoned BT yesterday. "Yes sir you can cancel your broadband, but to keep the landline that will enter a new 12 month contract" and it appeared when you left you still had to pay the remainder of the 12 month contract. I argued and got nowhere, so I ended the call without cancelling anything. Another call to the new provider and you could hear the lady on the phone sigh, BT up to their dirty tricks again. So the result Is I have signed the forms for the VOIP transfer and just received an email from BT the landline transfers on the 15th October and on that day both my LL and BB contract with BT ends. So both ending together they can;t play the silly new contract trick. BT really are acting like a spoiled child. I have given them plenty of time to improve their service and finally lost patience and am leaving them. Their behaviour in this matter does nothing to make me want any dealings with them again in the future. I wonder if they will ever learn the way to get happy customers is give them good service? *Some of you lucky enough to get FTTP will wonder how we manage with such a slow connection, but it is 15 times faster than wired ADSL was here and all we are ever likely to get in the near future.

@TimCx I’m using these Analox ones. No complaints so far (and the price on that site I linked is very good but no idea if it’s a good site)

What CO2 monitors are you guys using? I was thinking if getting one but I am struggling to find any that are good, most of the YouTube reviews seem to be for cheap Chinese units and I would like something that is likely to be accurate.

Open Reach free issued a coil of steel wire armoured 6 pair phone cable and a length of grey Duct 52 for the purpose. Only the section under the road crossing was under the duct, the rest was direct burried. Some areas don't use the SWA cable and use a soft cable and duct the whole lot.

I suspect the casual way he just pulled the wires in and connecting it, he was thinking "here we go again, they forgot to complete the install and I am left to pick up the pieces and make it right" When we built this house I routed the cable in even doing the ducting under the road crossing and left the cable coiled up directly above the trunk cable running down the road, and because I was feeling really nice, I left a stake in the ground of the verge marking the exact spot. I was staggered when an OR guy turned up with a shovel to dig the connection pit by hand. He did thank me for making his job easy.

There is minimum 1.2kw needed to charge the car, I think it's charging standard not a zappy limitation. On Zappy there is a Eco+ mode where you can choose within app (1%-100%)how much Grid electricity you want to add to reach minimum 1.2kw. Another keypoint to consider is which brand hot water diverter you are using? We have both Eddie and Zappy, so it can programmed from one app and they play nicely with each other. You don't want two different brands competing for surplus

Not sure if this link will work but this is where I got it. They wouldn’t ship to the UK when I bought it last year so we had it sent to a colleague in Ireland. Daikin part number for ours is EKHBCONV. This was for 6Kw split https://www.gus-astuces.com/pompe-a-chaleur-moyenne-temperature-daikin/702-kit-rafraichissement-daikin-altherma-3.html

Luton man left shocked as his house is ‘stolen’ :- https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-essex-59069662 Property fraud is where fraudsters try to “steal” a property, most commonly by stealing the homeowner’s identity and selling or mortgaging the property without their knowledge. They then disappear with the money leaving the true owner to deal with the consequences. The Property Alert service below helps people to detect fraudulent activity on their property by sending them email alerts when there is certain activity on the property being monitored, such as a mortgage being taken out against it. The recipient can then decide whether they think the activity is suspicious and act quickly if so. The alert email tells them who to contact should they be concerned. HM Land Registry Property Alert is a free property monitoring service for anyone who feels a registered property could be at risk from fraud:- You can sign up to get email alerts when certain activity occurs on your monitored properties, so you can take action if needed. The property you want to monitor must be situated in England or Wales and registered with HM Land Registry You must create a Property Alert account to use the service You will receive a HM Land Registry email (please check spam inbox) to enable you to verify your email details You must then sign in to your account to add a property Email alerts are sent when official searches and applications are received against a monitored property If you receive an alert about activity that seems suspicious you should take swift action. The alert email will signpost you to who to contact. You don't have to own a property to set up an alert The same property can be monitored by different people. Property, especially flats/apartments, can be registered with two titles. Blocks of flats are often owned by companies (Freehold), and the person owning the individual flat (Leasehold). When registering for this service please choose Leasehold title for individual flats/apartments. https://propertyalert.landregistry.gov.uk/ Advice on registering your property or properties against possible fraud was highlighted this week on the ITV Martin Lewis Money Show:- https://www.itv.com/hub/the-martin-lewis-money-show-live/2a1827a0127