Leaderboard

If you help carry them down and back up you will save any damage and he will be less grumpy.

I have a similar kind of requirement. From advice elsewhere on this forum (which worked well) I converted the incoming 25mm MDPE to 22mm copper, then did all the filters using copper/compression fittings then converted back to MDPE for the run into the house.

Wait until they go on holiday, and then order 40t of hardcore to be ‘gifted’ upon their driveway. A gift once recounted by a few B&B owners who decided to club together and buy one old hag a ‘present’ for slagging all the other B&B’s in her street off anonymously on ratings sites, and then telling someone who then decided to share her secret. Bingo Bango. 👊.

Probably the pictures are too large and too many for the forum software? That is never going to be a pretty house, it probably was not when it was new, and I doubt it is going to fall down. It does not take a surveyor to tell you the workmanship is basic and it would benefit from repointing and some spalled bricks replacing.

The brass compression fittings go into the plastic filter housings ok, but you do have to be careful lining them up as if they're out of alignment they'd strip the thread of the filter housing. Just keep a careful eye to make sure they're not wonky and don't use too much force. Once they're in then they never need taken out. UV lamp had metal threads so it was no bother. The fitting you linked to looks like something I used and yes, just used a bit of PTFE tape.

We bought a warm-up kit on our last one

I am in the process of doing this and BC wanted the floor insulated, they are generally interested in 0.24 U-value in my area. I will use the fire step lower level to fit the woodwork and insulation to bring it up to the same as the rest of the house.

If the material it is removing is wood, then it kicks out a lot of shavings and not much dust to be honest, if the blades are nice and sharp and he takes a reasonable pass each time it should create stuff more like pet bedding shavings rather than a dust. With extract on the fine stuff should be caught. If MDF, whole different ballgame as that stuff comes away like a dust storm. Even MDF doors usually have a wooden edge though.

Planing doesn’t produce dust, nice curly shavings if using hand plane. If the chippy is going to trim bottom of door with it still in place then insist on dust extractor coupled to the saw. still better to take doors off, outside for trimming, then re fit

If he’s a good carpenter he should have a dust extractor fitted to his tools, there should be minimal dust if this is the case. Ask him.

Or as per the above linked paper: 3.4. Critical storage volume The critical storage volume to satisfy 100% solar fraction using different thermal energy storage technologies can be estimated based on the energy densities given by literature (Hadorn, 2008), which estimated the storage volumes required for a storage capacity of 1850 kWh with 25% heat loss were 1 m3, 10 m3, 20 m3 and 34 m3 respectively for chemical reaction storage, sorption storage, phase change material storage and water sensible heat storage. Take the moderate overall heat loss coefficient at 150 W/K as an example, the critical storage volume using sorption storage is 31.5–44.3 m3 in all studied cities. Critical values of using other storage technologies can be proportionally calculated according to the data provided by literature (Hadorn, 2008), for example, if using water as the storage material, this storage volume should be in the range of 107.1–150.62 m3. Nevertheless, in reality, the energy density of SSTES system depends on the system structure and scale, some experimentally tested energy densities of SSTES prototype and corresponding critical storage volume are shown in Fig. 5. Download : Download high-res image (175KB) Download : Download full-size image Fig. 5. (a) Energy densities of SSTES prototypes, the number besides the dot symbol is the prototype system scale in unit of kWh; (b) corresponding critical storage volumes. β = 45°, γ = 0°,  = 150 W/K. Storage technology: 1. Hot water in pebble-bed storage (Hahne, 2000); 2. Na2HPO4·12H2O supercooling latent heat storage (Hirano and Saitoh, 2007); 3. Closed SrBr2-water sorption (Mauran et al., 2008); 4. Open SrBr2-water sorption (Michel et al., 2014); 5. Closed LiBr-water sorption (Zhang et al., 2014); 6–8: Closed LiCl-water sorption (Zhao et al., 2016, Bales, 2008); 9: Open MgCl2-water sorption (Zondag et al., 2013); 10: Open vermiculite-CaCl2-water sorption (Aydin et al., 2016); 11–14: Closed zeolite-water sorption (Bales, 2008, Finck et al., 2014, Hauer, 2002); 15–17: Open zeolite-water sorption (Bales, 2008, Weber et al., 2016); 18–19: Closed silica gel-water sorption (Bales, 2008); 20–21: Closed NaOH-water sorption (Bales, 2008). Current results are based on the situation of 100% solar fraction for domestic heating with 21 °C room temperature all through a year, which might not be practical; however, these results can be used as baselines or fundamental database, then the SSTES system performance with lower solar fraction or shorter space heating period can be reasonably estimated.

Didn't in mine.

I had this with electric supplu when they wanted to upgrade the transformer on neighbours land. They started off with "we have the legal right, he can't stop us" etc, which then went to, "you'll have to route from another one 200m away crossing fields and a stream". to finally, aw f@*%k the transformer will probably be fine.

Openreach have this power but enforcing it takes time and lawyers court fees etc, 3 days work on an alternative route was probably cheaper.

Tell her how brilliant fast your Broad Band is, and how it will be so much easier to run your business from home. Point out that there is enough parking and turning space for even quite large trucks. My neighbours still think I am a vivisectionists for the government and I do taxidermy for a hobby. Well one side does. The other thinks I am gynaecologist, all I said was 'acute angina', but her English is not too great.

I've picked up some premixed tubs from here: https://www.traditionallime.co.uk/products/hydraulic-lime-products/natural-hydraulic-lime What you will likely want is natural hydraulic lime, NHL3.5. Just briefly, as the terminology is confusing: Natural hydraulic lime - lime which sets in the presence of water. Comes in 2MPa, 3.5MPa and 5MPa strength. It's breathable, repairable and compatible with most old buildings. 3.5MPa is the most suitable for most things. Non-hydraulic lime (lime putty, fat lime) - lime which sets in the presence of carbon dioxide. This is a weaker mix and requires a bit more specialised knowledge to use. Only reserved for very delicate heritage uses, especially in mortars but is used more often in internal plasters. Hydrated lime - lime which has been mixed back with water and is used as an additive with cement. It won't set on it's own and won't make lime mortar.

PM sent @pocster.....

There is that, of course. Its complicated by the fact that I am planning to change a upvc window too. The window needs fensa/certass/bc, but if the door doesn’t I can just get the chippy that will be doing internal doors to do that one.

People will be people.

I could've sworn I'd posted a while back on voltage monitoring but I can't seem to find it now. I had on loan (for a job) a Fluke VR710 voltage logger. While setting it and it's software up I had it logging down at the house for a few days. Conveniently these were very sunny days. There are five properties on our pole transformer, four of which have 3-4kW solar. I'd need to hunt out the log files- they're on the computer down there- but I was surprised just how tight the voltage was clamped.

I would pay extra attention to that flat roof area and its ventilation. Really would have wanted it to be done as a warm roof with ply deck on firings or use tapered insulation.

Don't get involved let the contractor do it. If he hits anything it's on his shoulders not yours. Mine hit a main 10" water line , the cost to repair was down to him and his insurance. If you start saying do this, do that, you are in charge - it then your fault and your shoulders, your money.

In theory, but in practice the holes you make in it, means it's not airtight, plus you would need to seal skirting level. Instead of guessing do if I need this or need that, get an interstitial condensation assessment. Either download a free trial copy or get your house designer to do it. Are you going for an airtight build? Have you looked at ventilation?

Looks too low to be Part M and only have a 3-4mm LVT on it. What’s the depth on the threshold .? The crap corner needs trimming back and the DPC checking but it’s a quick fill with some self leveling compound.

So the bloke did a days work, your mate weren't happy and refused to pay him. You said the work was OK. Where does your mate get off thinking he can treat people like that and there be no comeback. I'd have done exactly the same as the bricky.

There's no reason to install polythene (air and vapour barrier) unless you're needing to stop vapour getting into an assembly that absolutely isn't able to dry itself. Use a breathable air barrier as your airtightness layer. Plasterboard is pretty worthless thanks to all the holes through it. Easier to stick up a breathable "tent" that's airtight and line that with plasterboard for structural integrity so to speak. We had a local plasterer come to quote for dry lining and either taping or skimming our seasonal cabin build over here. "Are you going to heat the building all year round?" was the first question he asked on the phone; followed by "So you will want to use moisture rated plasterboard everywhere?" as a confirmation type question and was horrified at "No" as an answer. When he arrived on site and saw OSB as the (vapour open) air barrier instead of the usual polythene it was a case of "Oh thank christ for that" or words to that effect. "You're not trapping the moisture." [between the (vapour retarding) paint and the (vapour closed) polythene in a building where there isn't always a strong drying force (from reducing winter humidity by heating it all year round) to suck that moisture back through the paint] If there weren't howling gales through most buildings I think we'd start to see fun as people air conditioned UK builds and moisture backed up against the polythene on the structural side or tiles / wallpapers / vinyl type paints on the interior side of the plasterboard...

HX with air in it leading to higher flue temps. HX with crud in it leading to higher flue temps. Thermal fuse breaking down internally and going "normal" (closed circuit) when cooling down again. Not uncommon with age and operating at high temperatures. Google polish forums etc where these are repaired. Can you power limit the boiler? If the HX is clogged that'll drop flue gas temps at the expense of hot water reheat output and the time it takes rather than hot water final temperature. Reheating a stolen cold tank probably had the boiler firing harder for longer and triggered the fault. Else if you're sure HX is clear find a scrap boiler to nick the (normally closed) sensor out of? (I don't think it's available separately)

Sunamp are, I believe, going to release a unit with an integral mini heat pump which stores 'cold' rather than hot heat energy. I'm currently awaiting some further detail so I can recommend / integrate them, but if you've got PV and no ability to trench for geothermal loops or have an ASHP ( which I think is exactly @divorcingjack's situation ) then this seems a good product to look at. Basically when the suns shining your cooling, but the same can be said about a split air con unit. The only benefit of wet cooling via the UFH is no breeze and no stale air. Also I'm not sure about how MVHR and air con would live together. @JSHarris, could the air con unit feed to a heat exchanger in the MVHR ductwork as a pre / post cooler ?