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sodium hypochlorite, brilliant stuff. Gets the slabs/blocks like brand new with no effort. Put on pretty strong first time and just leave it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sodium-Hypochlorite-14-15-Patio-Cleaner-Swimming-Pool-Chlorine-10-Litres/293530139736?epid=11037962208&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4457c27c58:g:r7cAAOSwRsJehe7e&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkvjzWOStkxwnlDuxSI1PVVu8e5rlRA4HwQngsX5udberl6rRHs%2FMOJD89a35nRa2ilDubBNc9iASqP4F72mvHidM9vQ1Z9QMtIcU0mVQP24860dJKaXYXLXtz0RIzgKnX7jBBvFfVLHlxIhGmicbtM%2BAdWsFrEoMhWY2TTrrxJzInoZPOAgHSMvWmcPU0Hi6MVTWNnbzUsgXC1FKCqyRbeeOyZ4YeGeR8M7ItR%2Fn6Jwf09Fzll8dbfe7dlOOQPCI0cT8Rm3b4astrBVCPSVF0EQoNETEtT4bX4t20JbyI00OmvyZKEcQ23YrbPTVfIY1s7q8KEyKqpENP7ezld99QZGO0xwxa0PjqLuJfLZjkQxPs6p0IDI3V5gy%2FjQ97IpDuMhSS46D9%2BlbSe2wvaEixTR0h1S2e11sRco4pvicx5KM2aEmxl9VRfD90V%2BJFNg0C2bJyFBiR%2BNY8dWwilDp42ce9FMEnu%2B0gD7a0FwV0YobiEO88i0ZKit6EpfktrHxp5YXpT03vw%2BG5FuxJbarkoAOAQOcbEMmLKIbA5bYVT9WU0cNW1gkPUqqrjWKI8u%2BGxM56%2BmVfY9nN0U6XEw%2BwIXIFA6m7IwsoZvAVtb%2BP2KzfjZNTFKa1SrBlIC6PhDBBvPZmPNfQW1DbrL9ILqIJLDsI00b%2FTuxwhahwfG26%2Bspi0RwibHrWWPEojUiBnytz431rxp1KAO8zz4IQGatonNnel0vSbCtBJ5ejGPByxL1c3t47PfA8Vl8I9%2FmDuCk6Xiu5XkJhL07ANxOk2EfDUQ%3D%3D|cksum%3A29353013973641e3d213656a429db185ab70e2c2cacc|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

Yes, concrete is inherently pretty waterproof and whatever add-mix is introduced just makes it more so. However shuttered concrete structures are not poured in one go and it's at the interfaces of cast sections that leaks occur and this is where the WPC systems really add value Our contractor's formwork made provision for an inch wide & deep channel on the top of the slab kicker and on sides of each vertical section. These channels were then scrubbed clean of laitance with wire brushes and dried with blowtorches (we were doing this in September, so was occasionally damp). Into the clean dry channel went Sika waterbar, applied with Sika mastic in advance of the next pour. For penetrations, plastic sleeves of a larger diameter of the service were cast into the concrete, each with two rings of water bar applied. When we ran the services later, the gap between pipe and sleeve was filled with a non setting waterproof compound from Newton. Finally mechanical expanding rubber bungs were used to seal all of the bracing holes and then sealed with waterproof cement. Everything was photographed and sent daily to Sika and the rep came to site a few times to check progress. THAT is what makes it properly waterproof and costs the time and money. If you're investing in internal membrane then go for it and get a good warrantied job done and you should be fine.

Another vote from personal experience for Zinser. But, I'm thinking about changing: why....? Here's an expert on the subject - he does much of his work in MDF. And here's the playlist which will give you a really good insight into the hiccups that can occur with things like raised grain and so on. (water-based paint sometimes raises the grain on MDF - just needs a bit of sanding to rectify, that's all.). For another perspective, Alistair Johnson takes you through the paints he uses on built-in furniture (often MDF) and why. Very detailed (order numbers and so on) Ian

Just do it! It might not give you the answer directly, but it might help us work out what might be happening. Zoot, if you're asking for help the least you can do is do what's asked of you - even if you're not sure why? Mrs Miggins never gives us all this trouble...

5 mil onto the casing We normally butt 150x15 ply around the casing and run a bead of acoustic sealer onto the ply Then drive some screws through the pb the following day Partitions Simply double board Just looking to see if I’ve any picks We did a 18000 sq ft house overlooking Lake Windermere 2018 I will post them if I find some

Just use countersunk 7.5 concrete screws as they are easy and don’t get in the way.

Erm...you WON'T see them is the idea! ?

4x3 wall plates are for stiffness as well as build up so if that is spec then why change ..? I use concrete screws to hold down wall plates and 140mm are fine for that purpose.

Has it been designed to introduce shading in the summer? if it was mine and I wanted more light in just fit a piece of glass instead of tiles, glass tiles are sometimes available , don’t use lead near glass

Yes I did.

Awhile since I was involved in consultation on RHI. It was originally planned for upgrading heating systems in existing housing and tied in to certain fabric upgrades. Not sure why self builders were given exemption, as you state with a well insulated modern build payment is minimal.

this is the stupidly crazy idiotic thing about RHI. get paid more for building a less efficient house! who the **** thought that was a good idea. surely any sane person would reward those building efficient houses. but when has logic ever played a part in government decisions. ?‍♂️ in that thread it seemed to state that domestic RHI had been extended to 2022. so maybe there's not the rush you think @pocster? ask your MCS installer to clarify.

Depends. BCO won’t give them anything - you need to give the BCO the as built to prove your build has met Part L of the building regulations And altering an as built SAP to gain higher RHI payments would constitute fraud but don’t let that stop you ...

Yes - but you need the as built or complete score and that needs someone to do it for you and then file it, and it is there forever in the system.

Can you post a picture of the UFH manifold controller, if possible with the cover off and close up so we can read the terminals. A lot of them have a "volt free" relay contact as the "call for heat" from the manifiold in which case you would use a 2 core cable to the boiler and it would not matter if they were on different circuits.

Assume this is to get RHI for your ASHP..? If it’s an MCS install then it’s an as built or finished EPC which you can’t get as you’ll need to get things such as air test etc. You need as low a score as possible but inside a D (C..?) to qualify for RHI. Get an A and you’ll get about £100 a year, get a C and you’ll get £500

That 25-60 is more powerful but not by much TBH as you have a balance valve with the tank I would be binning the mid position and replacing it with a 2 port and that way you are simplifying the controls, other option is W Plan and a diverter valve. As you’re on oil the time the DHW runs is irrelevant to cost so why not set that to 4:30-6am then put heat on from 6-7:30 and they won’t be fighting.? And no idea what that air separator is doing but I bet it’s sludged up ... where does the heating return back into the boiler return out of interest ..??

I don't think there is anything I haven't haggled over, bribed tradesmen (I make good cakes), complained, moaned, cried, begged and pleaded, presented price matches just to get some discount or better prices. Our building bill is one thing we can't control (although we have had some success) but anything else I've done pretty well on. I'm a good judge of knowing which approach works best! Our bathroom shower cladding for three showers was close to £2k and an afternoon or haggling and I almost halved our quote.

@joe90 progress so far.. the top step skirt piece not glued in, due to needing to be cut to the door frame/ leaving until.. but other two pieces each side are fixed in. Great idea yours. Funny single skirt bit rhs.. the inny outy old wall prevented putting skirt all along, i offered it up but had to be a banana bending, not ideal to fix in With this pressure wanting it to spring out, or to carpet to surely. Even splitting into 2 bits dinnae work, a big iffset where they met. So compromised, bed will go next to it, and bedside cabinet covers it this side.. rrhs another something covering the vacancy.

It was open a tiny amount.

Zinnser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 is the best.

...and the diagram on page 25 may help illustrate this as it can get a bit confusing just written down if you're not familiar with this method of control:

thanks. I've read Brinkley's HBB a few times and also Tim Pullen's Sustainable building bible for the green side. both were really good and I found them very useful. I've just been wondering if it would be worth getting another perspective on some more of the technical side of things but, tbh, this forum is giving me most of what I need now.

No i think from memory bco wanted 3 ‘things’ - so I have an external land drain around the build ( a pipe with holes in ? ) , plastic sheeting over the external walls below ground ( can guarantee it would of ripped ) . In my opinion these things are all pointless as can and will fail . Then of course the ‘real’ waterproofing of the dimpled membrane on the walls and floor leading to an internal perimeter drain and then the sump .

The David Snell book covers all aspects of a self build from sourcing a plot onwards but doesn't specialise in any particular type of build. The Green Building Bible covers all aspects of low energy type builds. The Green Self Build Book covers the same area as GBB but in less detail and it also covers the Segal Build Method and gives examples of individual builds. Some books provide inspiration rather than technical knowledge but for me those three were the most useful.

From some of the clues you've mentioned, is this your controller? (Vaillant VRT350F, with the instruction manual here)

That isn’t true - they are totally different. The size of the units, type of unit (split vs monoblock) and the heating media (rads vs UFH) mean these are two completely different set ups. The issue here is one of controls - which is what we need to focus on.

Use proper MDF primer. It's really good. SWMBO has always insisted I paint anything with it before bringing into the house. Worries over the dust being a carcinogen etc. SF used to do their own No Nonsense one which was good: https://www.screwfix.com/p/leyland-trade-mdf-primer-750ml/222FG? Bedside computer table for my lad out of an old office chair and scrap MDF:

I think there's been a misunderstanding along the way somewhere. A new pump (or radiator, or any other invasive bit of work) could indeed result in pressure loss for a period whilst you bleed out any air that was inevitably introduced (from the work itself and the fresh water added afterwards). However, a new pump would *not* cause the PRV to pass water. That is, or represents the existence of, a fault and so I would be getting the installers (of the system) to come and take a look at that.

I would recommend engaging a qualified electrical engineer/electrician that can review this installation with all the actual detailed data. Given the range of cable sizes and potential costs, it is worth spending a little money to reach the optimum size, underwritten by a qualified electrical engineer/electrician. As usual, everybody is trying to help and giving an honest opinion but none of these opinions may be relied on because they do not have the actual data to work with.

Phone your local SEPA office ? The local offices have direct phone numbers listed on the SEPA website

If it were me (again) and your skirting is big enough or your pipes low enough I would do this....

Did you ask Samsung how the TV works, or do you just switch the chuffing thing on and watch the nice picture?

Here's a link to the sections of the Skillbuilder YooChube site which might just help you. I am afraid I didn't understand your problem statement. https://www.youtube.com/c/SkillBuilder/search?query=hip Discussion of hips in our family usually centres on the amounts of Paracetamol and Anti Inflamatory pills taken.