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Nothings quite finished but it's all getting a lot closer.... ?

Perhaps the thing to learn here is that opinions vary, even between partners, and having a flexible system is valuable. My parents have a *super* dark livingroom, even though there's a lot of windows facing south. Main reasons seem to be indeed no downlighters (older house), lots of dark wood, only a few pendants that are strictly speaking mostly pointing down too. I think this was/is my dad's doing who is fine with this.. whilst my mom keeps on complaining about the darkness.. I tend to agree with her, but indeed having a bit more individual control seems sensible here. ("why not both?")

Yes, ours was just included with the structural calcs for our retaining wall, last page of this attachment: 20717.pdf

@Triassic, the core problem you would have in briefing a lighting designer is your modesty Everyone can start from ' I know what I like ' , and everyone can put together a Pintrest Board - or something like that - magazine cuttings will do. Once you start, you won't be able to stop. I've found the process great fun. I've almost stopped changing my mind. That process will inevitably help you produce a brief for either yourself, or a designer. One of my children is an architectural illustrator for a large design office in Canada. He produces presentations using a bit of software called DIAlux : its the kind of complex program that takes a whole night to render an animation of how a building looks in all sorts of lighting scenarios. Naturally, he discussed our lighting scheme with us. His advice : layers, and simplicity. Trixy means unecessary cost. The simplest approach might be to get a copy of something like The Bible of Home Lighting - it takes you through the design development steps, has a helpful chapter structure and a passable index. And then there's this video about lighting by Llewelyn Whats His Face We found Use Cases to be helpful in making decisions. Perhaps not the formal Use Case of the software programmer - simply thinking through the light we'd like to have in well-understood situations; Evening in front of the box - getting up to make a brew slicing onions and - eyes streaming - throwing the peel in the bin coming home, arms full of shopping, and unpacking a 3am. trip to the loo - how not to disturb others reading the newspaper at the kitchen table or armchair whats at the back of this cupboard? how to read in bed without disturbing the OH We asked around locally (in the same area you are looking) : I got the distinct impression that the services offered were more suited to large companies. @puntloos puts it best of all, I think.

I'll add to this topic rather than start my own - but I'd be interested in this too. I spoke to a commercial one sitting next to me on a plane, she only did things like offices etc, but in her opinion it might be worth a consult or two but there's a lot of handwaviness about. This all comes back to my earlier opinion where major benefits could be had if people who design lifestyle, lighting systems, architectural features all work together on some concerted vision based on real experience. Things like personal preferences, habits around the day, angles of light, artworks that need to be custom-lit etc etc could be accounted for but in practice I think more often than not you get sold a lot of nothing where people just charge for making up some random Feng Sui type line of fantasy. One thing she did tell me is to not 'just' go for a matrix of downlighters. Great for cleaning but if you want atmosphere, light the walls. I should also have her recommendation on a good london-area guy if I can dig it out.. let me know if you want me to see if I can find it.. Anyone else opinions?

Render last 2 days: my idea was countoured 'stone effect' to blend in with cottage: done (reluctantly!) with skill & care, & results better than expected. Today 2x windows, french double-doors, lower door (inc slate sill [pic below] to match adjacent new window). Racing on: scaffold down in a few days.

Games room's sorted I see! ?

We are in the NW of England Our build was 284 plus two detached garages The charge would have been 13 k had we not had the Cil exemption Costs seem to vary

I now always use manifolds for heating. I run from the manifolds to the rads in plastic. The whole point for me, is that i won't have any joints below floors, or above ceilings, or anywhere where i can't get to them in the future.

Thats odd. The updated guidance is quite clear that you can obtain a Self Build Exemption. I starting my planning application and looked into the revised guidance, which I have pasted below: How does the self-build exemption work (for a whole new home)? If the necessary qualification requirements are met and the application process is completed within required timescales, an exemption from the Community Infrastructure Levy will be available to anybody who is building their own home or has commissioned a home from a contractor, house builder or sub-contractor. Individuals benefiting from the exemption must own the property and occupy it as their principal residence for a minimum of 3 years after the work is completed. Paragraph: 082 Reference ID: 25-082-20190901 Revision date: 01 09 2019 What are the specific requirements to qualify for a self-build exemption? A self-build housing exemption is available to anyone who builds or commissions their own home for their own occupation. On completion, they must provide the requested supporting evidence, and the property must remain their principal residence for a minimum of 3 years. If personal circumstances change and the applicant wants to dispose of the property before the 3-year occupancy limit expires, they must notify the charging authority and the levy then becomes payable in full. Failure to notify the charging authority will result in enforcement action against the applicant and surcharges will become payable. View more information on disqualifying events. Full details are set out in regulations 54A, 54B, 54C and 54D as inserted by the 2014 Regulations. Regulation 54B was amended by the 2019 Regulations. Paragraph: 086 Reference ID: 25-086-20190901 Revision date: 01 09 2019

I had some concerns with mine that the EPS would be able to hold back concrete at 300mm deep. The EPS was 200mm thick around the perimeter and each section around 900 long with a solid profile that locks each section together. I shouldn't have had any doubts, the Isoquick system was excellent, it didn't move or bow at all during the pour.

No he does that for free @AnonymousBosch but the gap at top of hinge to hang coat off is extra!

If their house feels like scratching around in a cave then it is a perfect example of not designing the lighting properly. A good lighting scheme will allow you to see properly but does not feel like you are living in an office or a branch of Debenhams.

This is often touted by lighting designer for a reason to have more lights. The thing is, less light worked just as well. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawthorne_effect

Do you have to pay more if the screws are all lined up properly?

I had my cataracts changed, sorted that problem, can put a 3 watt build in a room and see fine. I do use a cheap standard lamp for reading in bed, still got a 3 W bulb in it.

Interesting and shows how much variation there is in what people want. I'm not interested in atmosphere, I just want to be able to see clearly. If I wanted some bling I could add a few LED strips I suppose. For me all this lighting walls etc just produces a lot of shadows. Some friends of ours have a house with 'fancy' lighting and I find it's like scratching around in a cave.

I have always been a bit dubious about lighting designers. I worked for one of the largest manufacturers of lighting controllers and diffusers in the UK about 20 years ago (my project was not lighting). Often we would get a lighting designer come in with some great new concept. They were all flakey "designs" and nothing new. We treated them with respect, nodded at the right times, pretended to be enthusiastic, then did a quote for them. That was the end of that. I am very happy that I have not been involved in the business since LEDs have come along, would have been the same old all over again, but with smaller illuminairs and more colours.

A supplier is obviously after selling as many fittings as possible and is more than likely just going to grid up loads of downlights. As was mentioned above light the walls not the spaces and think about what atmosphere you want to create in different rooms. 5a wall circuits work really well for floor standing or reading lights so great in living spaces. Think about where you might want to hang pictures and put a row of adjustable downlights along that wall about 600mm off wall. Just rememeber if design work is free it is not going to be by a decent designer. You pay for decent work.

I’ve got the free design, all 80 pages, it’s centred around what a single manufacturer has to offer, so some good ideas and some not so good ideas. My main problem id that I’m a bloke and I’ve no vision! I also have three large rooms with cathedral ceilings and a basement that need carful lighting. Im going to ask around locally (Cumbria and North Lancashire) if anyone can recommend someone to do a design. I’d hate to spoil the ship for the want of decent lighting.

I have internal French/double doors, 2 sets, leading off our hallway. I had to have bespoke ones as our ceilings are 2.7m downstairs. I got a very reasonable price on mine from Weekamp, a Dutch manufacturer with a UK outlet. Check out Weekamp Duiren for the Dutch site and full range. These are our internal doors from them.

No £2, the model only counts losses when heat is required to maintain demand temperature (Full SAP) but yes premium versions are rarely worth it from a saving point of view. Adding 50mm of PIR to either will reduce the U value by about 0.04 and save approximately 3.5kWh of gas per m2 per year

... clowns who pretend to know a lot more than they thing they do ?

Kindle probably just figured someone so experienced and with such a busy practice wouldn't have time to read it anyway ?

Another way to phrase this might be "enough to be competent in his profession, but also young enough for his knowledge to be current", and if you are attempting to build a passive-class house then this is highly relevant. 99p sounds a steal to me.

One thing to think about is the beam angle. For some reason the world seems to be standardising on 36 degrees for GU10 bulbs. I find 90 or 100 degrees is much better but they are harder to find (BnQ have some). You get a bit more glare but fewer shadows and more even lighting.

Definitely a big improvement, it’s a shame you had to be the customer they got to “learn” from but at the end of the day it’s done. When you do your car port I think you will wonder what all the fuss was about as it’s ALL in the preparation and planning, putting the tin up and fixing it is the EASY bit. Anyway glad I could have contributed something to the forum.

Good news is I think the contractor felt ashamed enough to apologise and rectify the work on one roof today. Turns out being a reference for half the other self builders in the development has some sway when they realise it! Taken today and tomorrow off from work to supervise onsite directly and ensure the rest gets fixed too. Thankfully I had spare material for the car port which can be cannibalised for this, and they'll be paying for replacements directly out of their fees.

That's what the labour savings went on... We didn't work this hard to have a "standard cooker" ?