Alex C

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About Alex C

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    Check out my blog at www.passivehouseselfbuild.co.uk

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  1. You also need to look at floor to wall/skirting details in the room above as a lot of sound is transferred from floor down the wall. Try and track down some robust details as there are lots of examples of how to deal with this.
  2. My neighbour is building a german kit house and the wall panels are craned in to place with a single sheet of fermacell factory fitted on each one. That is where the product is really being used to its best advantage.
  3. You are always going to get a flatter finish by using the largest board size possible. Fermacell is crazy heavy and uses expensive screws that will be a nightmare to fix. 15mm large sheets of standard plasterboard or 2 sheets of 12.5 is how to get good sound insulation and use standard dry wall screws that will be a fraction of the price. Fixing boards to a ceiling without a board lifter will be the hardest workout you ever do. a 1200 x 1200 fermacell board weighs 21 kg. You cant lift that overhead and fix it on your own.
  4. Why are you putting fermacell on the ceiling. Are you planning on put some shelves up there? You would be nuts to board a ceiling in half size sheets of fermacell. They will still be really heavy and all the joints will look crap. If you are doing it on your own hire or borrow a board lifter and use standard plasterboard 15mm thick or 2 sheets of 12mm. The guys I have seen who board out without using lifters tend to have no neck and look like power lifters. There is a reason for this.
  5. Yep, both down lights and 5a lighting circuits and whatever else you fancy is how to design a lighting scheme as it is then easy to make a room bright for cooking/reading or maybe darker for movie watching. In my experience electricians and also light fittings suppliers tend to go for the grid up the ceiling with far too many downlights approach. Back to the OP. I would be interested if your free design suggested any 5a circuits, as there wouldn't be any kind of fitting for them to sell you then.
  6. If their house feels like scratching around in a cave then it is a perfect example of not designing the lighting properly. A good lighting scheme will allow you to see properly but does not feel like you are living in an office or a branch of Debenhams.
  7. A supplier is obviously after selling as many fittings as possible and is more than likely just going to grid up loads of downlights. As was mentioned above light the walls not the spaces and think about what atmosphere you want to create in different rooms. 5a wall circuits work really well for floor standing or reading lights so great in living spaces. Think about where you might want to hang pictures and put a row of adjustable downlights along that wall about 600mm off wall. Just rememeber if design work is free it is not going to be by a decent designer. You pay for decent work.
  8. The chance of getting that stop bead in accurate enough to get a decent square door is zero and how do you neatly fit it around the top of the door. These sorts of details are always much harder to build than to draw and more often than not end up with the plaster cracking around the door any way and looking bad. I have used a shadow gap detail in this sort of situation dozens of times in commercial jobs. Use the detail above but with a qic trim d12. Job done. Also use a 3d adjustable hinge as you will make life even harder with a soss hinge.
  9. Sheet material such as habito board gets much cheaper if you can buy it by the pallet load direct rather than being delivered by your builders merchant from their store. Resilient bar is a good call and not expensive. for our 150m2 ground floor it was about £400 in materials and 2 man days to fit it. Just make sure you use the correct length screws as fixing the plasterboard with too long screws that go into timer just defeats the whole point of it isolating from them. If you do use habito you don't need any other ply or osb behind unless it is in the kitchen. In bathroom use green plasterboard with ply behind or work out exactly where fixings will be and nog locally. Dont forget bog roll holder and bathroom cabinets.
  10. Fill it with expanding foam. Maybe put some tape on the window board to stop any overspill sticking to it. Neatly trim it back when dry and put the trim back.
  11. Is that a little trim at bottom of window on the window board? If so I bet it is hiding a bloody great big hole at the bottom of the frame. You could remove the window board and refit with some thin celotex underneath and a the back edge. Or just put up some heavy curtains.
  12. https://myenergi.com/product/zappi/
  13. Yes, Fit the window in to a properly sized opening in an insulated wall and in line with the insulation not in front or behind it. (not always easy in a retrofit) Foam carefully around the window when it is installed put a strip of insulation as a break at the rear of the window board You can also fit foam backed plasterboard around the opening on the inside part covering the edge of the frame to reduce any bridging.
  14. Cutting in to what? I have used both a router and track saw in timber. Very easy.Some LED strips are top hat shaped so the edge of the slot can be a bid dodgy but it gets covered up.
  15. Our ground floor is largely open plan but with a separate snug. I knew i wanted this as a quiet escape from my kids so got mbc to build a separated twin stud on these walls that was filled with sound insulation and then double skinned both sides with sound bloc and habito and fitted a fd 60 heavy door. I am really pleased with the result, but has ended up being the room my kids watch movies and play Fornite with the surround sound turned right up and you can hardly hear it in the rest of the house.