Alex C

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About Alex C

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  1. I did my own design SAP but my assessor refused to use my model for the final SAP as he had no idea if it had been done properly and was not willing to sign off someones elses work. He only charged £180 which seemed reasonable. For me creating the SAP model was really worthwhile as I could play with the variables and it showed me what changes would make the biggest impact. I was needing to score over 100 for my mortgage application.
  2. I think the issue is chargers that don't have any circuitry to control the charge of dodgy batteries. It is the batteries that then burst in to flames. When powerful cheap led bike lights first started coming out of china I know there were quite a few instances of this happening. The battery packs tended to be several used 18650 cells from old laptops made in to a battery pack.
  3. I have worked on the design and roll out of a lot of commercial interior jobs including high street fashion and banking. This sort of thing came up all the time and 100% why you cant rely on other peoples drawings.
  4. I have played this sort of game a lot over the years. I suspect the new architects want nothing to do with the converted files even though they can read them as they are likely to cause endless pain over the coming months of being worked on. They might look right when printed but could cause problems with inaccuracies and errors that will make working on them very slow and cause further potential mistakes. I hate working on drawings that have been started by someone else and I am sure I am not alone in that. Just re read your post. If it is a basic survey drawing not construction drawings it may be easiest to just trace over the drawing in the cad file so all lines are created from scratch, rather than try and modify existing vector lines that may have glitches in them. That wouldn't be a massive job. There hopefully is a scale bar or dimensioned line somewhere that can be used to check the scale is right.
  5. We have a black granite with a matt 'leathered' finish. It was a great choice and has not picked up any obvious marks at all in 2 years of heavy use. The leathered finish is created by thousands of tiny scratches so just hides any other marks that may happen.
  6. That is a pretty horrible place to be putting a door regardless if it meets regs or not especially as your landing is tight. I would be going for the 400 offset if at all possible. Can you narrow your gallery and get the landing a bit wider? Are you not paying an architect to tell you if the design will meet building regs, surely that is their job?
  7. Plenty of people seem to go through a whole build without construction drawings. Then wonder why they have gone massively over budget, have loads of problems on the build and the detailing is crap. You will always get a more accurate price with a proper tender pack. It should include more detailed drawings than just for planning, details of any specific on non standard parts of construction and a detailed scheduled of works and specification outlining all finishes etc.
  8. I found Ecology very easy to deal with and were also the cheapest by far as the fee is so low. I decided I would rather spend 4k upgrading the spec of my house to meet their criteria than spending 4k on a fee for a broker. I had a lot of equity so they let me have access to all of the funds as and when I wanted it so just drew it down each time I had a big bill in. I made sure I took my first drawing on day 1 though just to get the 2 year mortgage period ticking so I could remortgage to a lower rate asap.
  9. Are they going to be doing epc from scratch or just changing your existing design epc to an as built. I have to be honest but who does any work for less than a £60 fee these days? Thats less than a plumber call out for an hours work.
  10. Are you confusing Ecology building society with the work provided by your ecologist? Back to the OP. If your QS estimates add up to a sensible sqm cost (£1450 -£ 2000 sqm) I am sure they will be fine. I did my own costings for Ecology BS but they were quite detailed with quotes for timber frame and most work estimated on rates.
  11. Google search?
  12. Make sure you get a high grade birch ply with a least a BB finish otherwise it will look like a shed. You need to pay close attention to the detailing and any shadow gap details/window reveals. When it is done well I suspect it is not cheaper than plasterboard and plaster. If you want to plug the boards that is going to make your mind up for board thickness.
  13. If you use anything thinner than 12 for a finish it will bow unless you cover it in fixings. I have used 2400 x 600x 9mm sheets of top spec wisa birch ply nailed at 300 centers around the perimeter and it still bowed over its 600mm width over time.
  14. 12mm is generally fine for either a wall finish or to put behind plasterboard so you can put up shelves or cupboards. Has the advantage that it is the same thickness as plasterboard so you can mix and match ply with plasterboard over or double plasterboard. If you are using ply as the final finish make sure you quickly paint it with something like osmo uv protection to stop it going yellow.
  15. I would suggest that your air test is money well spent if it shows the quality or not of the build to that point. If you do it early enough in the build it then gives you a chance to try and rectify any problems with airtightness.