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Hi Steel has arrived, for back of house with crane coming tomorrow to lift it in

It will be half garage, half workshop. space for 2 cars and to be able to open the doors fully. The upstairs will be a man cave/cinema. An extravagance I know but this will be my last house. I've had compromises and loads of old houses so now I just want something not too big nor too small. 2600ft2 not including garage. all quality German kit inside. £300k including the land and fees. think we have built a bargain.

Three? Three! Colour me sceptical, as I seem to recall pictures of about twenty-three.

Amazing what you can do with a bacon butty and 3 tins of McEwans...

Yea. Practically fixed itself tbh.

If I'd found this forum earlier I would have been wiser too. We just have to be so thankful we found it when we did. I can't imagine where I would be now without it. All the support both practical and emotional means so much 'Thanks' just isn't enough

The other thing is to put everything in writing, a guy saying yes when asked probably isn’t good enough.

At least there will be hot showers ....

As an alternative simply confirm all fittings comply with Table 2.1 in AD G!

There is a standard form you can fabricate to give to BCO as they never check .....

You could always borrow an epilator .....

We are at the stage where we are deciding if we should project manage the build or whether the architect should. The architect has managed the tendering process and we are planning on using the following companies: Company 1 Supply Only Timeframe Company 2 for all siteworks, building, roofing, Joinery including frame erection and outside paving/driveway Company 3 for electrics Company 4 for plumbing Company 5 for Ames taping and decorating I thought that because company 2 is doing most of the higher risk work that it would be OK for me to Project Manage, however when i told the architect today that I was planning to PM he sent me the following: "I seriously advise against Project managing yourself by the way - H&S responsibilities, time co-ordinating trades, detailing issues, arranging materials to name but a few but it is your call. Remember all these trades have priced works based on efficient co-ordination so don’t be surprised at a “claims conscious” mentality from them." The architect has proposed that he will PM the build for £15,000 (inc VAT), which is 4-5% of the build budget of £320,000. He anticipates spending 1-2 days per week on the project. The house will be 326 sqm, 2 storey, timberframe with a combination of block/render walls and granite walls. We aren't building to passive standard, but still want it to be well sealed and u-value around 0.11 - 0.15. UFH on ground floor, with mains gas for gas boiler. The site is a level corner plot with roadside access from 2 sides. - I have attached the house plans. In terms of my experience, I have software project management experience and my wife is an accountant. Neither of us have ever managed a construction project before, however I have spent the last 2 years researching and designing the house and have read various books on the subject. I am a control freak with an attention for detail and know even if I let the architect PM I would still want to be heavily involved and I know I would be willing to spend more time sourcing materials to get the best price. We have already agreed that we will be supplying the Kitchen, sanitryware and other shower fittings and the cantilevered stairs. I could be on site until 08:40 every morning for a daily meeting etc. In terms of budget we could afford the PM, however would prefer to use the money on furnishings and just not sure if it's required. The only issue I see in terms of the trades being delayed is that the mortgage is in arrears, which could cause delays, however this would cause delays regardless of who is the PM. What do people think? House_plans_and_elevations.pdf

I had to chuckle whilst watching a documentary on North Korean labour The gang master at a shipyard in Poland said The problem with Polish workers is they won’t work exstra shift and don’t want weekend work He obviously not been to the U.K.

The bloody dustbin leaked and CT1 wouldn't fix it! Made a new batch in a water butt. 45l water with 450ml soda crystals. The electrode "ring" could do with being set lower tbh: 24vdc psu this time at 5A and it's going berserk!

260 bricks 3 bags OPC 10 bags sand Good bricky would have that done in a day

Yes - I understand there are discrepancies and I need to do more work before asking for quotes. The lower floor and entry level are insulated to an extent and I know that I need to make sure that the UFH quote includes, insulation and screeding - or at least be aware if it doesn't. I am practising a mantra suggested earlier in this post. "Does that include everything?" along with "Is there any else I will need for this?" and "Can you do me a detailed breakdown?' where the job is complex. I also intend to make full use of this forum getting all my quotes checked.

@Hecateh comparing the schedule above from @PeterW to your spreadsheet I’m concerned that your estimates don’t break down far enough. Now you may have everything at a more granular level separately but the electrics being quoted @ 2k for example. Presumably that’s for both 1st and 2nd fix? Do the quotes you have cover both things as the first fix wiring could be quite a while before the 2nd fix work if you are thinking of delaying work in certain rooms for example. And at the end you will need the electrical certificate for building control. Does it include the light fittings, sockets, switches etc? You will need to insulate the floor and I don’t see that noted or the screed unless it’s bundled into one of your categories. Personally I would start with Peter’s list and augment it to try to ensure that you have covered everything needed. Broken down into labour and materials unless you are certain that your quotes cover both. Even then you will need to know exactly what is included and ensure that it covers everything you need, or that you are aware of anything excluded.

Hello to everybody. My girlfriend is having built her own home she designed. 230m2 of living space plus large double garage etc. 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, wc, kitchen, living room, office, utility room, cinema/activity room. The house is in France and is on a plot of 1300m2. The house is going to be complete in September. She is using individual trades and she manages the project. There have been no problems and it will be on or just under budget. She is using a brick construction ( lots of holes in it but don't know the name in English) with wood fibre insulation. Under Floor heating by town gas. All German materials for kitchen, bathrooms, boiler, windows etc Estimated energy (hard and electricty) costs per annum €500 Land cost €45,000 including fees. Build cost: €300,000 I joined the forum to ask a few questions and read up on theories and practise. Feel free to chat. Mark

In my planning conditions it specifies no loose material within a minimum distance from the road. I have yet to investigate how they would measure that distance as my driveway is not straight.

It is now. https://www.inverse.com/article/7853-permeable-concrete-is-the-mind-melting-future-of-driveways-and-parking-lots

Yeah good point! And the ability to turn on a tap and hot water arrives which is still a novelty .

The Plans

Only BCO can tell you as he / she is signing it off. "Not lockable" refers to a thumb turn on the inside eg no looking for mislaid keys to get out in an emergency. But your house is tiny and cramped. How will you ever manage ?!?

I assumed that 'road humans' was simply @Ferdinand using a non-gender-specific term for sleeping policeman!

You would be more than welcome.

Thumb turn on the inside?

That would be a way to keep the population down @Ferdinand

Could not possibly comment. I may have a pelt like a bear . Or not.

Surely you meant "nazi's"?

My BCO didn't mention Part G and didn't ask for a certificate. I had told him earlier in the build that all our taps and showers were aerating and that it was to be a low water usage house.

I remember seeing this on another forum, I think Jeremy had to fit flow limiters!. I am hoping my BCO does not know/enforce these as I have bought a very deep bath and I heard even the bath capacity is limited ?. I think it’s yet another case of who your BCO is and what he knows ( and does not know).

Is there a reason for the osb? Its a perfectly good product, but I would personally use a tongue and groove chipboard designed just for floors, you can get a product with a nice plastic coating that protects it when the plasterers are upstairs chucking crap everywhere. I don’t know what is available in France,

Here in the UK we have to do a garage ceiling with 2 layers of the pink 15mm thick plasterboard with staggered joints to achieve the fire rating. Ceiling up first, then you can fill between the joists with insulation, then your floor. What's wrong with P5 chipboard flooring? OSB does not give a particularly smooth finish.

Its OK Capt.F he's been through customs already ;). Just a bit of an overstep with the link so no lives lost.......yet. It goes all the way down my back too so theres a bit to do

The question is one for others, but that is some garage.

When I went to purchase a duct the supplier asked if it was for my house or shed. Apparently the local DNO insists on a particular type of duct and marking on it. This makes it more expensive so they also sell a cheaper version for connections on site (eg to a shed).

My girlfriend is having her new home built for her - individual trades. See photo. House is in France. All is going well. Over size is 230m2 plus a large garage. It has 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, wc, utility room, upstairs and downstairs living room, kitchen and large play room/cinema. On a plot of 1300m2 Joined the forum to ask a couple of questions.

Out local DNO pushed and pulled our supply cable through the 30 m duct no problem. One pushed the cable into the duct and the other applied tension on the drawstring.

Note the minimum bending radius of the cable you are using. Don't have sharp bends in the duct where it comes up from / goes into the ground. Don't panic if you lose the draw string.

Deffo. Just be very sure to bury it in plenty of fines, and not to dent or distort it. Arrow straight will help but if you do get stuck you can hire a petrol driven hydraulic winch that'll pull it through. Oh, and ~60-70mm duct minimum.

This is all the protection needed. Now we know who bought it at the Crowe's divorce sale. (making my scrotum itch just looking at it)

Coming on: