ProDave

And don't bring the pipe out of the wall BEHIND the FF. Most need every mm of depth available. Bring the pipe out e,g under an adjacent unit where you can access it by removing a kick board, to allow the entire depth to be used for the FF.

What type of insulation do you have? This is the prediction for my house which has a high decriment delay type of insulation u-wert-berechnung (10).pdf It shows a time lag of 13 hours, which oddly means peak internal temperature will be in the middle of the night, when it's coldest outside. Yours seems to turn the corner a lot quicker as it starts to warm up outside. I presume that's more to do with solar gain?

4" is a lot easier.

This looks very similar except it does not have the on / off / timed switch http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GRASSLIN-ELECTRO-MECHANICAL-24-HR-TIME-SWITCH-02-76-0022-1-FM-1-QRTU-/322168095923?hash=item4b02b704b3:g:h78AAOSwnipWUYef

Then it's almost certainly generic, but you will need to know if it has switched L output, or a volt free contact.

Then for a single domestic dwelling, 100mm is fine.

So on units like the Misubishi with no condensate drain, does is just pool in the bottom of the unit? did you have to put a slight fall on all the ducts to lead to the mvhr unit and hence the drain? I was intending to make the runs from the mvhr to the inlet and outlet vent run downhill, i.e any condensation would run out of the vents.

Is it connecting to a main sewer or a treatment plant?

That's not an unusual requirement. In some ways mine is the same, except my SE specified two layers of OSB on the inside of the frame to give sufficient racking strength. But being the "belt & Braces" sort I am, I also have a lot of 6 by 1 planks left over that were temporary bracing. I am going to use these to put diagonal bracing straps on the inside over the top of the OSB and these will end up inside the service void.

I can only guess, this is to locate any water pipes before your piling rig finds them first? Me, I would carry on, and IF you get a fountain, at least you TRIED to follow the procedure. Keep a record of the date and time of your futile attempts to do it properly. Or get the dowsing rods out.

That's 2018 sorted then.

Surely condensation will only be an issue if it has a cooling function, OR if you have duct runs in a cold unheated loft space?

Post a picture and dimensions?

Gosh those plasterboard screws are close together. That is twice as many as I have ever seen used anywhere. What's the single back box for? I assume the double one is for a shaver socket.

That bit I have great sympathy with. I hope it goes through this time. At least you have people looking at the house, that would be something.... And as for Bankers (not sure that is the correct spelling) pulling the rug from under you. Been there got the tee shirt too.

I too did this once. BE WARNED, an electric plane can be VERY dangerous. In my case I just caught it on the final bit of it's spin down after use. I stuck "the flap" back down with a plaster and my finger recovered, apart from a scar. Be VERY careful with these, at full tilt they could do some serious damage.

Interesting document. but I take issue with paragraph 4. If I appointed someone to build and erect the frame, I am NOT "taking control of construction work" the builder is doing that and I am just letting him get on and do his job.

If you don't mind me asking, how much are they paying you for this?

You mean YOUR build is being filmed for "building the dream"? That guarantees something has to go wrong. Those programs ALWAYS have some difficulties with the mournful music playing in the background. No such difficulties and yours will be scrapped, no "entertainment" value if nothing goes wrong.

I think the thing you need to check is what the actual load will be with the building you are constructing. If it's under 25KN/m2 then happy days. If not then that's when your troubles begin. And you do need this information from your SE. So rather than go at him with both guns blazing "blaming" him, start by simply requesting the actual ground pressure imposed on the foundations. Is that information actually stated in any of the documents he provided? P.S I took LABC to mean Local Area Building Control. Why do people choose such confusing names?

Having the bend on the steepest bit is not the best place, think icy weather, car sliding and not going round the bend? Is it possible to re route it first to avoid that and keep the bend on a more level bit? If not, a high kerb seems a good idea to catch a sliding car? I had concrete at my last house, cheap, easy and dependable, but if the ground does sink it will crack and start to look tatty. I have tarmac at the new house and it looks god but boy it is expensive. I don't know why as it was a very quick and easy looking job to just pour it, rake it flat and run a roller over it a few times. One solution if you just want cheap, is just two strips of concrete rather than a wide slab. A local farm here at the top of a hill has this on the steep section (gravel on the rest) and it works very well.

I'm getting confused over who said what. You seem to be using LABC to do building control AND warranty, but it is not clear in some of your statements which one has failed it? Are there indeed seperate departments and separate inspectors for these 2 functions? As regards load bearing, what you need to know is what load bearing the completed building will impose on the foundations that have been poured, not some theoretical value. Could it just be that the overkill foundations could take 50KN/m2 but are not actually being asked to support that much?

The nhbc documents make it clear that it is only habitable rooms that need to meet the minimum door widths. Unfortunately that is not made clear in the Scottish building regs. I feel a phone call to the "duty building control officer" will be due on Wednesday. I could of course fit a standard width door, but then I would expect someone to complain the flue pipe is partly blocking the door, hence my idea to reduce the door with to remove that argument.

What puzzles me is how he managed to melt a cable when he only installed a push fit and a compression fitting?

Yes, but what width of door does a "cupboard" require?