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Found 9 results

  1. Hi BuildHub'rs I'm in the latter stages of a 2 story build with a joist and osb first floor. I have installed hushpanel 28 floating soundproof on top of osb, which seems very good. Problem is, my flue comes up internally from main living space through corner of master bedroom through 400x400mm hole with heat ventillation grill, bypassing the soundproof. All is not lost, as I can box in flue in upper floor. What product/ board should I use for good acoustic performance, please?
  2. Hi all. I seem to have snookered myself, but maybe (hopefully) there is a way around it... I have a stove planned for my living room, with a flue going straight up through the ceiling into the bedroom wardrobe space above, and on through the roof. Installer had planned on using Dinak DW or T600 flue, but... - 125mm flue outer diameter is 175mm - Receommended clearance between flue and combustibles (joists), 60mm - Space between joists (in first floor), 285mm So that suggests that my joists are 10mm too close for this to be compliant? - Can I solve this problem with a heat shield on one side (I think a heat shield needs 25mm circulation, but what are they and how thick are they?) - Any other flue system/brand that may squeeze in here? Related - is that 60mm clearance a manufacturer recommendation or a regulation? (The roof joists are wider spaced, so this problem just exists at first floor level) Thanks, James
  3. Hi everyone. I really appreciate any advice. I have a wood burning stove with a flue that terminates just above a sealed fireboard. I've had a WBS company check it out and they said this is unusual, and it needs a whole new flue liner etc to meet modern regs and to brun properly. They say as the short flue could deposit soot onto the fireboard, build up over time, and then cause a chimney breast fire. However I have just discovered an access hatch hidden behind a mirror on the chimney breast, which they, nor I had previously known about. This means I could periodically sweep up built up deposits from the fireboard, and assumingly reduce that risk significantly. I include a diagram of the arrangement and photos further below: My questions are: * Does my mitigation of risk sound reasonable? That if I use this hatch to clean deposits regularly, then the chance of fire is significantly reduced? * Can a sweep still clean the brick chimney by using brushes up the WBS. Or would they have to go up via this small acccess hatch - is that even possible? Of course I could ask a stove supplier, but two have already failed to check for a hatch and quoted me £1800 for a new flue liner, aire vvent in the room, etc. Note: I only really intend to use this fire once or twice a week during the winter. I have decent central heating and the fire iis more of an occasional nicety for winter evvenings. Background: I moved into my house about a year ago. And I was already aware that the WBS in the living room didn't have any HETAS paperwork (discount on sale was appplied!). An old friend of mine who has had stoves all his life said let's run a few tests... see if it's drawing. We did a smoke test, and sure enough looking from outside it was drawing well enough. Then we lit a few fires over the course of a week and it burned reasonably well. The ropes on the doors were falling off, which I think contributed to a lot of smoke smell in the house from the fire. But 3x Carbon Monoxide detectors dottted around the fire room, room above and hallway didn't ping once.
  4. Hi all, I'm building a parapet/flat roof 2 storey house, with woodburner stove served by flue exiting through wall on ground floor. I cannot figure out how much higher than my (aluminium) parapet capping I need to take the flue. I just can't relate the regs to this configuration (no windows, ridges, neighbouring walls etc). Any help appreciated.
  5. We have a chimney which is to service the WBS when it gets commissioned in early December. Unfortunately the builders positioned the hole for the register plate too far back in the hearth area causing the WBS to sit further back in the "hole" than we would have hoped for. I have spoken with the installers and they say there is nothing we can do to bring it forward. I suggested a double 45 degree bend flue pipe set up but he said because it is a chimney and not a twin flue system, the pipe needs to go vertically from the WBS to the aperture in the register plate. Now, once I have been signed off so to speak is this something I could fit retrospectively or is it a complete no no ? Thoughts welcome.
  6. Hi all, we’re looking at a multi fuel burner installation with this set up as the starting point: The bungalow was built in the 80’s, the fire is vented underfloor straight to the bottom of the deep box which holds the ash fallout. The actual fire is not large enough to take a burner, but there is room in front of it. My thoughts were to block the front of the fire place, run a flue through the plate and a little way up the chimney. The fire is a 8kw, to go in a large living room. I’m thinking new legislation may make this idea obsolete so I’m asking for suggestions. thanks in advance
  7. I found that the gas fireplace chimney crown on my house was pretty cracked and allowed little water in. After removing the crown I discovered that the flue was fitted hovering two inches above the concrete chimney pipe end and not interfaced to it, potentially allowing fumes to go into the chimney box - I did find soot deposits there. Furthermore, there is flexible flue liner running inside the concrete pipe but it stops about 30cm below the top. Couple of questions now: 1. Isn't the flue supposed to be tightly connected to the system below without the break gap? 2. If so, can it be interfaced and sealed to the concrete pipe as the lining ends 30cm too low or will I have to replace the lining with a length reaching all the way to the flue? Please see the photos. The chimney itself is precast concrete on a metal frame. Note the heat boards are removed in the photo as I am going to recoat the frame. Many thanks for any advice. Chimney in loft with heat boards removed Starting on the crown Pretty rotten underneath and the reinforced concrete top also crumbling Flue was flat on top of the rusted plate with a 2" air gap under it Flue liner down the concrete pipe
  8. I’ve just taken over a static caravan. The original stove has been removed and the flue pipe cut. I want to find a replacement adapter like that shown in the attached photos but am having difficulty, mainly because I don’t know what I’m searching for. So, if someone can tell me the name of the thing that would be incredibly helpful. Thank you. If you can tell me where to get the part I’d be even more grateful. James
  9. After some online research I've decided to use a cement based backer board instead of plasterboard for the wall behind my woodburner, for increased fire protection. I had assumed that hardiebacker was the only game in town but the different BMs I've phoned have offered me 'multi pro' or 'aquapanel' instead. Is there any difference in the fire rating of these boards? And is there any other material that might be better for the job? Thanks
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