ProDave

Zones and IP rating are only a requirement for rooms with a bath or shower (or swimming pool). You can in theory fit anything above a hob. Just use common sense. Likewise with height, as long as it's high enough not to bang your head.

It took me about 3 months to tile my roof over last winter, during which time a lot of snow fell on the roof and nothing came to grief. So as long as the felt is good there should be no worries. At least you will get a chance to find and fix any leaks in it before the final roof covering goes on.

That system is easy to install. Power to the inside and outside unit and a data cable between them. that's about it. The guys that set up the one I was involved with, didn't connect the "call for heat" from the ufh manifolds, which struck me as lazy, I am awaiting feedback from the owner how it is working and whether we need to address that or not. Just remind me, did you just buy the bits and install them, or is it part of a "package" including claiming the RHI?

All looking very good indeed. It's nice to see a quick build progressing compared to my snails pace 1 man effort. I particularly like what he's done with all the big stones, and I like you own personal "standing stone" very appropriate for the area.

TIP: the "high temperature solder" is lead free. Mostly just tin. I just reflow immediately with 60/40. that gets it melting easily with a low power iron. I have enough 60/40 to last me out, but TIP #2, CPC still sell 60/40 solder.

If it was that recent then I would have hoped they would have made the roof a lot thicker and put a decent amount in. But knowing mass market builders it might not have any (as my 1930's semi didn't, until I put some there)

Re pre heating intake air by passing it through an underground duct. This was discussed on EB and you must use special, I think silver coated, ducting otherwise you will get mould growth and then severe problems with air quality inside the house.

I think the paper heat exchangers were discussed before. They have an RH limit of 80% Yes the air being extracted from your shower room may approach 100% RH but that will be mixed with air extracted from other rooms as well before reaching the mvhr so is extremely unlikely to be anywhere near 80% RH as it enters the mvhr. In fact to get anywhere close to 80% I would expect you to need someone showering simultaneously in every bathroom. while someone in the kitchen also has several pans of water boiling away, and also a load of soaking wet washing hung up to dry in the utility room. Very unlikely. But I do agree the LG units look worthy of consideration.

Re banisters. The Scottish regs say "A 100mm diameter sphere must not pass through" so as long as they are close enough together, those vertical rails would do. Not sure about them ending 5 steps up though. I believe any "drop" over 600mm requires rails, so at most 2 steps up I would say. Also there just seems something very "wrong" about having a fire under the only means of escape from the basement of a 4 storey house. What could possibly go wrong?

Isn't that Doom Barthroom?

The mvhr will DRY your washing, but it won't make the towels fluffy, Unless anyone knows another way to fluf them, there will still be some need for a TD. Re the energy usage of a TD being roughly equal to the energy a load of drying washing sucks out of your house. That's a simple and usable piece of knowledge. In the summer, dry your clothes on the pulley and it has a useful cooling effect on the house. In the winter use the TD and it helps heat the house (as long as it's a conensing dryer so the heat stays in the house)

Not sure of other parts of the UK, but up here on your 50th birthday you receive your first Bowel Cancer screening kit in the post. I won't dwell on the details but you have to provide some samples. they give you a stick and instructions....... Then you get one every 2 years after that.

Do you need to change anything? My present house and the new one under constructions were bought as building plots so "land". When I eventually sell the present house I will just let my solicitor take care of any changes needed at the time. But under the UK law, you don't buy a "house" you buy a oiece of land with whatever happens to be upon it at the time of sale, so I question is there actually any need to change anything?

The point is though, USB A is the default connector. There are then a myriad of different sized and flavours of usb socket on all your devices. you just use an adaptor lead to suit the device you are charging. The same would be true if your outlet was USB C.

Just got round to watching the latest one. 4 storey town house. Nearly all open plan. Stairs in the middle of the house, only one exit, the front door. Hardly any internal doors at all, let alone fire doors. The bedroom doors were Japanese style paper doors. How did that get passed?

But then it would have cost twice as much and you would have had to use iscrews to fix it to the wall. no other tyoe of screw would have been compatible.

Nasty. the disc and spindle could come detached during use. That might not be pretty. this shows why outsourcing manufacture to a cheaper foreign country (in this case Russia) is not always a smart move. I don't think my 30 year old grinder, that used to be my dad's will be affected.

I think you over estimate how much water is in a load of washing. In our previous house which was cold and poorly insulated (so condensation could be an issue) we dried the washing by shutting it in a cupboard on the pulley with a dehumidifier on. You would not get more than about half a litre of water per load of washing

This thread is interesting. If you are building an entire house frame from scratch yourself then I agree a good shop saw is what you want. But £500 or more? If however like most of us you paid a builder to do the big and heavy stuff and now just have a few stud walls to build and other bits and pieces, then I think I will stick with my £40 chop saw (CPC special offer about a year ago) It will cut a 6 by 2, and will do an 8 by 2 if you turn it over for a second cut. The main thing over any other type of saw is a nice clean and SQUARE cut.

This is probably the best argument for NOT fitting USB sockets at all, and just using plug in adaptors of whatever flavour is in use today.

Your door is more likely to be a standard size and easy for someone else to find a use for. NSS's windows are a bit unique and harder to find a use for unless you design something around the windows. P.S I note the ebay advert does not give the sizes.

A light above or beside each door is all I would have personally, and perhaps one or 2 along the side if it's a passageway. If you want to know the meaning of a slow building site, look at mine. It's over a year since i said farewell to my builders (amicably and only because I was running out of money so can't afford to pay labour) It's taken me all of that year to get the outside of my house and plot finished, and only now am I starting to work on the inside.

i think you are over thinking this. We routinely dry our washing on the "pulley" Contrary to popular belief this does not add a noticeable amount of moisture into the house, there is no condensation or mould anywhere. And I cant say it has any effect on the temperature of the small utility room that it is in. So just do it and don't worry. If you use a non condensing vented tumble dryer, you, like me, will cry at 3KW of heat going out of the house through a big hole in the wall. If you use a condensing dryer, it will use much the same amount of energy but most of that stays in the room so adds to the heating of the house. You might detect I am not a fan of tumble dryers. the sole purpose of ours is to make the towels and socks "fluffy" and experimentation has found for that you don't need to dry them in the TD, just partly dry them, then hang them on the pulley to finish off.

Hi and welcome to the forum. You are in good company here. 21 planning conditions sounds like hard work so just work through them one at a time. Sorry to hear about the digger and dumper problems. There are a few on here who bought their own plant (including me but I have now sold my digger as its work was done) who may be able to help.

My gut feeling says 2 inlet and 2 outlet vents in each room. i.e. twice as many as you said. I wouldn't put the vents in the wardrtobe but in the actual ceiling of the bedroom. Intake / outlet at least 1.5 metres apart. My Kingspan unit on it's slowest setting is almost inaudible even when right next to it and uses very low power on that setting, so I wold have no hesitation to use something like that. Summer bypass might help if you overheat with the stove.