ProDave

You might be right. Forget leading or trailing, does it say suitable for LED?

Doesn't this come down to "is there a wayleave"?

That would make sense. It is certainly not in our case to stop the flue setting fire to the timber of the house under normal running. And just to be clear I have complied with the >50mm to combustible material for the whole length of the flue.

Lacking in detail and full of greenwash. If it's an electric storage boiler using resistance heating to heat it up, then yes it might be "zero emission" in your house, but it will add to CO2 levels until the entire electricity generating system become zero CO2. AND it will cost a lot more to run than a gas or oil boiler that it is replacing, they forget to mention that. And if it stores HEAT just how can it become a "power plant" to export to the grid? IF you are going to switch to electric heating you would do MUCH better looking at a heat pump, that will take most of it's hear from the air.

First the lamps must be dimable. Then the switch must be compatible with LED's, sometimes described as a "leading edge" dimmer. There is no transformer with GU10's

Go on, light the stove and measure the flue temperature. Our flue goes up through my daughters bedroom, exposed. With the stove burning it is pleasantly warm at floor level but not by any means "hot" and at ceiling level it is barely warm at all. The manufacturers state it must remain 50mm from any combustible material. I think that is the manufacturers being over cautions, after all you could have a 20KW monster stove on the bottom burning full tilt 24/7. With out little 4.5KW stove the flue really does not get hot and it does not bother me having it exposed in a child's bedroom. Do the same rules apply for a WBS flue as a gas flue, i.e. all joints must be accessible for inspection?

3 questions: How? Why? Where?

It's 400 in Scotland, you would need to check Bregs elsewhere.

If the boxes are proud, offer up the plasterboard and give it a gentle thump around the socket box. Take it off and you should see the outline of the box imprinted on the back as a template to cut to.

I can point you to a couple of new builds up here that have been built up to slab level (no doubt to "start" and lock in the PP) and then been left like that for several years and a few Highland winters, with no ill effects.

Who is fitting the plasterboard? Do you trust their workmanship? Properly fitted metal back boxes on noggins with properly and accurately cut holes in the plasterboard is fine. If you can trust the boarders to cut the holes as they fit the PB then do it. If they won't cut the holes as they board, then don't (or choose other boarders) AND it is vital you get the noggins parallel to the wall. A wonky noggin deeper into the wall at one end will yield bad results. It is largely bad experiences with bad boarders that makes me favour dry lining boxes.

So the window is going to be some way above the ceiling of the room (203 feet? Not sure what 203' is meant to mean) and you are going to make a light tunnel to bring light into the flat ceiling of the room below? If that is your objective, I would look instead at the product designed to to that, a light pipe. They go under various trade names like solar tube etc.

Just what is it that you have against plastic plasterboard boxes? I use them almost exclusively. SO much easier. Now it may be you have used them before and found some of them fall apart, or are fiddly in the extreme and irritate you. If that is your reason, then you have obviously not tried Appleby dry lining boxes yet. And if you really must have metal, have you considered metal dry lining boxes made by Click Mode. All the benefits of a metal box, all the ease of a plastic box. I dislike metal boxes because 9 times out of 10 the joiners don't cut the hole when fitting the plasterboard and from an electricians point of view it can be a right royal PITA cutting the hole for a box that is already in the wall. If you do go ahead and fit flush boxes, set them 10mm proud of the timber frame to force the joiners to cut the hole as they fit the plasterboard.

We must be unusual then. Yes we load the dishwasher and when it's full it goes on, usually every other day. BUT I always have a bowl full of stuff to wash every night. Stuff that can't go in the dishwasher like the aluminium coffee pot, the wooden chopping boards and wooden spoons, the stainless steel flask (too tall) Some delicate glassware sometimes. Plus you need a bowl of hot soapy water every night to wipe the hob and all the worktops etc. I would be interested in those who "never wash up" how you cope with those.

Yes, Righty tighty, Lefty loosy, just like an old fashioned tap.

The valve is there to balance the system. With all TRV's open you adjust these to get all radiators to heat up equally. If one is open too much, particularly if close to the start of the circuit, it might hog all the water flow and others further away get little water. It sounds like some of yours are out of balance. The ones that are struggling need the valve opened more and probably some of the others that are working really well need their valves closed a little.

Calm down gentlemen please. The moderators are watching this. some of you have been warned before. No personal abuse please.

I know someone that wanted to build a massive extension to a house in green belt that met with lots of objections. He had 2 applications running concurrently. The objectors never noticed this, so the second application had no objections because they had all objected to the first one and nobody noticed the different planning application number, so the second one passed. It made the local paper as there was outrage at what happened and I suspect procedures changed after that.

We have a WBS. Ours is room sealed with combustion air direct from outside. Ours takes both primary and secondary air from outside, not the room. When not in use it appears to have no aparent impact on energy used to heat the house. It does not create draughts or in any way make the house cold. We do use it a couple of times a week (it is burning now) With the very open layout of the house it does not over heat one room (room with the stove currently 23 degrees) Obviously burning the stove shuts down the ASHP and saves a bit of electricity. It's on tonight as it's damned cold here for the time of year, just 5 degrees today and a hard frost expected tonight. Most of the wood we burn is from our own trees that I am gradually thinning, and local wind fall. I don't buy wood to burn and if I did not have access to free wood, I would not have a WBS. The air quality here is about as good as you will get. Prevailing wind is from the SW and if you look on a map, there is only Dingwall 12 miles away, then next population is Fort William or Ullapool. There is not much in between. I have twice checked the MVHR filters and they are very clean indeed. So anyone with respiration issues, I can recommend this as a place to come and live. No Major roads either, the A9 being our trunk road. If you have MVHR and a room sealed stove there is no need for air vents in the room. In fact our stove is rated at 4.5Kw so even if it were not room sealed you would not need an air intake vent.

I levelled and seeded our garden LONG before the house was even habitable. The logic of course was it was the last task for my digger, and once that was done I sold the digger. Is your plot larger than the area currently fenced or is there another plot between you and the house next door?

That was my finding for my LG ASHP. The only "as designed" way to control the HW heating was the supplied controller. I had to get inventive to create the facility to turn the hot water on and off from an external demand.

I have only worked on one Ecodan system (not the quiet version) and it had a simple volt free input contact to "call for heat" from the heating system. If a Hive can't do that, I would look for a different thermostat system.

What is the problem? Why can't a Hive thermostat control an ASHP? No different to it controlling a boiler.

Is there not a grub screw in the handle to stop the bar moving out pf place again?

I can see both sides of this. When we used to run the B&B we once found the room thermostat turned up to 30 degrees, and the bedroom windows wide open. Some people have no idea how things work, and it they are not paying the bill, have no interest whatsoever in being efficient with energy usage. It did not matter to them that the boiler was working it's socks off to pump heat out into the street. The other side was in our buy to lets, where the tenants paid the utility bills, it was normal in winter to find the heating turned off, the property cold, the windows and ventilators shut, and the tenant complained of condensation and mould. You do need the patience of a saint to be a landlord. I removed the fan isolator switches so they could not stop the bathroom fans from operating.