ProDave

Check carefully, I have a Wilo Yonos pump in mine. They come in lots of different versions, and one of mine has a plastic body so would fit your "non ferous" criterea

Strange choice of pump for UFH. Try turning the speed adjuster switch, sometimes the contact gets dirty and just exercising the switch cleans the contacts. This would do as a replacement if that does not fix it https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CENTRAL-HEATING-CIRCULATING-PUMP-Wilo-Pump-1-1-2-6M-180mm-Pump/362783491642?hash=item547794c63a:g:LikAAOSwKINdqDCT

Never seen that many. Do you have a link to the hangers you are using?

Heating my modern well insulated house with low temperature UFH works very well. Thinking back to a previous 1930's house I owned, and how much heat it needed, and how quickly it cooled down, I very much doubt you could get enough heat out from UFH to keep it warm in the middle of winter, so it needs radiators to pump enough heat into it, which a heat pump is not really suitable for. I am glad not to be pumping that much heat into a leaky box any more.

I don't have any pictures but the house next to us where I grew up as a boy had major subsidence issues. It was a pair of Victorian semi's. Basically the dividing party wall had sunk, and both houses sloped downwards to the middle. Eventually the owner of one half bought the other so he now owned the pair. He then spent years "repairing" them, starting with digging up the floors to underpin the party wall. Then he one at a time completely took down and rebuilt the entire front walls so they now all look square again. The only bit he didn't do was the back wall on the T extension that still has a slight slope to it. For all that work, most other people would have just knocked down the pair, and given it's location built a 3 storey set of flats.

PTO was a standard option for Series Landrovers so no doubt I could source and fit one. I find chainsaws to be high maintenance. That might be because I have a rubbish one. Chains need regular re sharpening and I find I can only re sharpen them a few times. Then they stretch and wear, Adjustment of chain tension is a regular requirement. Then the bar wears and the chain starts jumping off (this time I have prolonged it's life by turning the bar upside down, so the worn bit is in a different place. That has stopped the chain jumping off for now but another new bar will be needed soon.) I might try buying a couple of the really stupidly cheap chains from China on ebay, then I might not bother faffing with them so much if they are cheaper. But I like the simplicity of a large circular saw blade with little to go wrong and a blade you can sharpen? or just replace when it gets blunt.

I like the look of that. It looks like you can clamp a log right at the end then go along sawing off slices of the right size to then be split for the fire. I built a traditional saw horse at the last house (but made it a built in feature of the wood shed under a verandah so it stayed there) and while it worked well to hold the logs you were lucky to get 2 slices before you had to move the log, making it very tedious keep putting the saw down * to move the log along, and really made it a 2 person job, one to keep moving the logs and one to saw. * My chain saw has never been good at idling and even though it appears to idle at the right speed, will often just stop for no reason, so often when putting it down to move a log you then had to re start it. I would love a Fergie with a saw bench like that but I think the Landrover would have to go if I bought one.

That's how my Mother was. The last 2 times I visited she did not know me, and swore she had 2 daughters not a daughter and a son. She also kept on saying every few minutes "I wish I could move back to Oxford" and it was pointless telling her she was in Oxford, not half a mile from where she used to live.

My mixing system looks like this That was obviously before the pipes were connected. The two ports to the left of the temperature dial, the top one is boiler return and the bottom one is boiler flow. Most that I see are a variation on this type. But neither is right or wrong, just different. I asked about the source as I found mine would not reliably regulate low enough so I have it set as low as it will go and instead regulate the temperature by setting the "water leaving temperature" on the air source heat pump to deliver the water temperature that I want. I think your type of thermostat with a capilliary sensor regulates better.

My Mother's motto was she wanted to grow old disgracefully. The reality was she grew old with dementia in a care home, but at least she was well looked after. And we watched our inheritance dwindle to not very much at all to pay for it. such is life.

Indeed. I arrived at 48 degrees as that is the hottest I can (just about) hold my hands under for any length of time. I see no point in having it hotter than that. If I need really hot water for some specific and unusual task I will boil the kettle.

I can't figure how that would work. Typically when heating DHW I observe a flow temperature of about 55 degrees and a return temperature of about 47 degrees. Under that scenario the HP would be doing nothing and it would just be a gas boiler heating my DHW. On that basis the HP would only operate when heating the UFH, and if that is the case surely you might argue to have 2 separate systems for UFH and DHW? What I am saying is these systems that claim to heat first by the HP then boost it with another heat source require a massive delta T that never happens in practice.

+1 That is the logic we use to only empty the septic tank or treatment plant in a period of dry weather.

That is a very different mixing system to any other sort of UFH manifold that I have ever seen. A "flaw" in this calibration procedure is they are making the assumption that the setting dial on the input thermostat is actually calibrated correctly and you will therefore see exactly that set temperature on the thermometer. I would not trust that to be the case, especially at low temperatures. As long as you are seeing a constant temperature on the thermometer, and that constant temperature goes up and down as you adjust the input thermostat (allowing it time to do so when you make an adjustment) then I would not worry. Then set the temperature to get the thermometer reading the temperature you want, and ignore what the dial on the thermostat says. The principle of operation here is the thermostat head will shut off the boiler flow when the set temperature has been reached. What source drives the UFH is it a boiler or a heat pump?

That link is short on details, so I did some googling. I assume it works on the absorption principle like a gas powered fridge? A bit about that here https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/heat-pump-systems/absorption-heat-pumps If so I am surprised it is only 38% more efficient than an electric heat pump. Given that gas is about 1/4 the cost of elctricity, I would have expected an astoundingly low cost per KWh of heat from a gas heat pump? Of course it has all the gas disadvantages of another standing charge to pay and the need for a gas safe installer.

That looks like a macerator? If I am reading this right the upper floors of your house can drain by gravity to the sewer, it is only the basement that needs pumping. If so this system sounds ideal. I guess it is a case of will building control accept it?

I guess if you have a hot water tank that is ported for hot water circulation (our Telford UVC is) then you could pipe hot water from the DHW tank through the towel rail. We run our DHW tank at 48 degrees so that would be okay for the towel rail. But someone will come along in a minute and tell us why that would not be a good idea. Rusty brown hot water? Might need a Plate Heat Exchanger to prevent that. It sounds an awful complication to avoid just having an electric towel rail.

You definitely won't get a lot of heat from a towel radiator fed with UFH temperature water in a modern well insulated house. If you put your hand on the UFH flow from the ASHP it barely feels tepid, that's how your towel rail will feel. Even the floor does not feel "warm" more a case of it not feeling cold.

Hi and welcome. With a CV like that you should be answering all the questions. I am sure @JSHarris will be along shortly.

If they are as old as the panels, 7-8 years, they are probably near end of life. But you can get a replacement for about £300 so still a good buy, if split between 3 would be about £1500 each, similar cost to mine.

That would make a good group buy to split 3 ways.

That's just as funny reading it a second time nearly a year later. Especially as I have now seen "the gap"

If you can get them for close to the start price, that's about £28 per panel They are a slightly smaller version of the panels I have made by Trina Solar. Those are 230W panels, mine are 250W. Looking at the pictures of the back, they look to possibly be suffering from "degraded backing sheet" Mine were advertised as that, though the reality was only 2 of the batch I bought had any sign of problems and were easily fixed. It does appear this make, the backing sheet along the joint lines between individual cells is prone to cracking, perhaps due to it getting hotter there? At least the seller of mine mentioned that "defect" Mine claimed to be from a solar farm that was upgraded. There certainly seem to be a lot of these for sale, this seller has a warehouse full and advertising different sized batches as well, e.g 20 panels for a starting price of £750

Twisted nails, it's what they are designed for.

As far as I know the Jan 2020 thing only applies to septic tanks discharging into a watercourse. If they discharge into land drainage then there is no imminent requirement to upgrade them. My next door neighbour has a septic tank discharging into the burn and there is no sign of him doing anything to replace it yet.