ProDave

More like £75 here. At least just for cooking 47Kg lasts over a year.

I don't think paving slabs would have the required finish. Looking more for a smooth, nicer looking "stone" finish. That's why I thought of large format floor tiles. I propose a timber or possibly unistrut frame to support them. Details depend on what we end up with, e.g if support just at both ends is adequate or if intermediate support is needed. If floor tiles I doubt they would be strong enough just supported at both ends so probably plywood shelves with the tiles glued down. If I end up with 900 by 600 tiles I can get them cut in half by my tiler friends tile cutter.

We want stone shelves in the larder. I would like to fit them fairly soon, even though the walls that separate the larder from the corner of the kitchen may not be built for a while. This is one of those items I know is going to be either difficult or expensive (or both) to source. Looking to make two shelf units with shelves in the order of 900mm wide by 300mm deep. The obvious place is the stone suppliers that will do the main kitchen worktop and hearth slab for the stove. But I am wondering if off the shelf (excuse the pun) solutions are available. One thought dawns on e is large format floor tiles cut to size, i,e if anyone makes a 900 b 600 tile it could be cut down the middle. Thoughts please.

Job finally done today.

I think it was this thread

+1 to getting a professional to have a look. You are probably okay as the roof is probably strong enough but all the internal walls would need to go right up to the ceiling.

Play nicely gentlemen, no personal insults. This thread is being watched.,

I would have done the sum as 10 + 22*0.3 + 10 + 13 * 0.3 = 30.5 i.e done the 10 + 30% of the remainder for the oven and the hob seperately then add them together. Result to practical purposes is the same. I would still be inclined to fit 10mm because you never know what you might want in the future.

Watch out in this stormy weather, https://www.itv.com/news/2019-11-02/uk-buffeted-by-winds-of-more-than-80mph/

If it is anything like ours, when the stove is lit, the flue in the room above is barely warm to the touch and presents no hazard and no need to box it in.

Re the wood burner. I have a room sealed one and it has little or no impact on air leakage. Even if you shut off the inlet air vent with yours the chimney will still draw air from the room. I would see if there are options with your stove to fit a ducted air intake. I used the radial system from BPC and my pipe was red in colour. I don't remember getting an option or what the different colours mean. I ran two 75mm ducts to each vent to keep flow rate and noise down.

What did you have to do to reset it once unlocked? Is it just a case that the mechanism must move once in a while to ensure it has not seized when it is actually needed?

I only had 3 services in a 300mm wide trench. I put water at one side like that shows, telecom where you gas is shown and electric where your telecom is shown.

You can legally keep the FIT contract in your name. You just need to get meter readings somehow. We are still collecting the FIT on our old house as it has not yet sold. All that is important is the equipment must remain at the original address connected to the original supply.

These IR systems were discussed recently. If you have an old leaky building with high heat loss, they might have some merits. They work well in a church for instance where all you want to do is heat the congregation for an hour a couple of times a week, not keep the whole fabric of the building warm all the time. But in a modern well insulated house you simply won't avoid the whole house heating to the same temperature, and then they are no different to any other form or resistance electric heating.

Or a squirt of something like Sticks Like Sh*t into the hole, screw it on loosely and then wait a good while for it to set.

That's the last of the downstairs flooring finished with the slate tiles in the entrance hall and utility room completed. I have to admit I got the local tiler to lay them, they turned out to be some awkward tiles not (imho) correctly sized to be laid in a pattern like this (resulting in some very irregular grout gaps) and some, particularly the larger ones were not very flat. Given the challenges he did a good job. Grouting and sealing done by me and SWMBO A few more pictures on a blog entry at http://www.willowburn.net/ Look for the entry Hall and Utility Room

One day we will solve and fit the stained glass window panel..........

Where do you derive that statement from? Taking into account the COP of a heat pump, the actual running cost per KWh of delivered heat is comparable to mains gas price, making it a very viable option when you don't have access to gas, and saving an additional install cost and standing charge if you do. Solar thermal does not have zero running cost and has a maintenance cost. Yes it can work very well, but not as your only hot water heating (it would be useless today) Electric resistance IR heating is 100% efficient like any other form of electric heating compared to a heat pump that will be between 300 and 400% eficcient by the same measure. Be careful not to be taken in by some outrageous claims by some systems.

You have to wonder why some people buy the house they do. Our neighbour has the same burn through his garden. A couple of years back he announced he wanted to culvert the whole lot. I stuck my oar in and informed him he would need permission from SEPA and gave him the forms. He did cover about half of it, as much as SEPA would allow him to cover. I was concerned at the potential of a long culverted section to block up and then back up into my garden. When it's in spate like today it would not take long to cause problems.

Sory but this looks like a solution searching for a problem to me. Bad points: Only works with a skimmed ceiling no good for tape and fill. It needs a good plasterer to get a good finish around it. It leaves an edge to be painted neatly and if done badly it will look bad. You need to fix them to the plasterboard with screws by the looks of things. I don't see an issue with traditional clip in downlights, or for a more modern slim look, clip in flat plate lights that usually have a wafer thin flange so fit pretty well flush. Clip in lighting of any form lets you paint first then put the light in and you get a perfect finish (as long as the plasterer was good) If you don't mind the extra work and skill needed then give them a try and I would be interested to see the results, but not for me.

The surveryor that valued out old house told me the PV would add nothing to the value and might even put some buyers off. One thing that annoyed me is our house everything came out okay except he gave the garden a code 2. I asked what the problem was and it was the burn. He expected me to put a fence along the whole length of both banks of the burn to stop people falling in. Any buyer that stupid should not buy a house with a waterway in the garden. One thing that comes up often with surveys is the mention of "rising damp" and the almost inevitable recommendation to have an chemical damp proof course injected. Most times the damp has easy to identify causes like ground level too high, leaking drainpipes etc and is easy to fix, but that does not stop them keep recommending injection damp courses.

And a lot of them seem to be be blank plates. I can understand a lot where you want the tv and want to provision for av stuff etc but it seems to have this provision on every wall and more than once on the same wall. And not enough sockets in the kitchen.

NONE It might reduce the value of the house. Virtually nobody seems interested in the future income. They just view it as "complicated" One example I know is a friend of SWMBO was going to buy a detached house with a PV system on the high rate FIT. I advised her it was a good idea. Several weeks in she pulled out of the purchase when the surveyor expressed concerns about the extra loading on the roof, and the access difficulties to maintain the roof tiles, which as most surveyors like to say are near the end of their life. She ended up buying a semi detached house without PV. I would always keep in the back of your mind the possibility that if you get an equally stupid buyer, that you offer to remove them to allow the sale to proceed and re use them on your new house.

I am not necessarilly sure an architect is the best person to trust with siting the plant and planning the pipework runs. Once you have some initial plans post them on the forum and plenty of people will be able to suggest improvements. As above, MVHR is mostly about stopping / reducing heat waste rather than it being a heat source. You have to ventilate a house to provide fresh air to breath. Traditional uncontrolled trickle ventilation wastes the heat from all the expelled air and often does not ventilate properly (adding to mould problems) MVHR gives you a controlled rate of ventilation with most of the heat from the expelled air recovered and put back into the incoming air.