ProDave

Or a further alternative. Get them to agree to you burying a length of cable ducting up your plot passing over the buried 11KV cable at the rime the 11KV cable is installed, through which you will later pull any cables you want with no need for excavation at that point.

Two things strike me. Why does the branch have to come from the same place? Would it be possible to take the branch from where the crossing line passes your left boundary. That WOULD mean an extra pole at that point, but that would avoid the orange cable passing under your land across the plot and remove the issue, so would that be a price worth paying? The other, is if all you want to bury is a cable for the solar PV, just do it. the 11KV cable will be a lot deeper than you need to go for an LV cable, just hand dig that part to be sure.

Normally with UFH you would have one thermostat per room, so one for the open plan downstairs, one for each bedroom and one for bathroom. I would not like to comment on how well, if at all, Nest thermostats would connect to the UFH manifold controllers. some expect a normal thermostat, some have their own standards and need their own thermostats.

The key thing with ground like that is get the foundations in now, while the ground is dry. If the water table then comes up in winter it won't matter. This garage foundations is basic stuff for a builder. Perhaps mention when talking to contractors about the garage that you will be building the cabin and eventually a house so you hope to find a reliable builder that you can work with and they might be more willing to be agreeable. Post any quotes you get here before you accept them.

^^ That is meant as an END profile, not for the bottom.

No 1 tip, for something like this where you have to cut the panels to size and cut holes in them, template it with a large piece of cardboard and cut it from that: Corner trim and end trim on the two ends. Do NOT use the multipanel bottom trim. Others agree that it is a stupid design that leaves the bottom of the panel sat in water. Instead finish the panel a few mm from the floor or shower tray and seal under the gap. Run the panel down onto the shower tray, do not run it down behind and then put the tray in front, that is a recipe for leaks. The trim panels are barely 1mm thick. Do not worry about them making things out of square. They are insignificant. the wall will be out of square / out of true by much more. Finished result:

The bottom line is the FIT has gone. You CAN still get an export payment, the best on offer seems to be 5.5p per kWh and for that, the system must be installed by an MCS engineer and you must have a smart meter to measure export. Rough guess 10.5kWp is going to generate about 6500kWh per year so you would get paid about £360 for that. The payback time is just way to long. Not viable on that basis. I still believe PV is only viable now if you can get the kit very cheap and self install and then self use most of what you generate. On that basis I am expecting a 6 year payback.

GU10's for me. If you choose anything else, make sure you keep plenty of spares, because my worry is when they fail in 5 or 10 years time, you won't be able to buy identical replacements.

I I have roughly 25M in total of 22mm pipe in the ASHP circuit and I could not achieve the required flow rate just with the pump built into the ASHP. I had to fit a second external pump to get the flow rate high enough for the ASHP.

Surely these exist as a bodge to "fix" a dodgy drainage system? Properly designed they should not be needed. Would a waterless trap do the same thing?

It keeps coming back to the "small" kitchen. I would seriously consider making the left hand living room window a little narrower, and moving the pocket doors half a metre to the right. I suspect that will make the flow around the island a lot better.

The stairs are always going to be enclosed between the 2 walls upstairs, no matter how much you move them forwards or backwards to accommodate the downstairs WC If you want to retain more open downstairs, how about taking a bite off the utility room for the WC, still accessed by a door under the stairs, but no headroom issues.

On any circuit with an RCD, shorting neutral to earth will cause some of the neutral current to go to earth instead and the RCD will detect the imbalance and trip. That is normal and something you just learn to accept if you cannot or do not want to isolate all circuits. The Bang and the MCB tripping could be anything. It won't be a USB device. It could be a faulty extension cable or could equally be a fault on the circuit such as a live wire pinched by a screw and on the verge of the insulation breaking down. That's why you should do a high voltage insulation test on the wiring that will find that sort of fault.

I wish roofers would do that. I HATE slated roofs with the slates nailed direct to sarking board and all over the inside there are nails poking through.

That reminded me of this classic

With hindsight, it would have been a good idea to paint the outside face of all those logs before assembly. Now you have to perch on a ladder resting in the stream.

Making the hole for the tap and basin waste will be a challenge.

I used 15mm for everything including the showers and the bath, to minimise volume of water until hot reaches the tap. No problems with flow rates. What is your mainspressure and flow like? that is what will drive it. But do make sure heating loops from ASHP to manifolds and HW tank are large and short. ASHP's in general seem to like high flow rates and I had to fit a second pump to get a high enough flow rate through the 22mm pipework. 28mm would haqve been better.

This is what I have just done for ours. Simple frame of painted wood. The "worktop" at the moment is a sheet of multipanel, left over from the other bathroom, and in this picture missing it's edging strips as everyone is out of stock at the moment. The basin was £45 from B&Q before discounts, I think I paid £38 in total for it. I forget where the tap came from. but B&Q did not have a tall mixer tap to go with the basins they sell. That might not be the permanent worktop. We wanted this one https://www.wickes.co.uk/Zenith-Rouille-Laminate-Worktop-12-5x600x3000mm/p/148757# That is one of the trendy thin kitchen worktops. Unfortunately at the moment Howdens only stock grey or grey. We like that one but it's pricey and at the moment Wickes won't deliver it and it's not in stock anywhere in Scotland. So the Multipanel offcut will remain probably for a while, who know, forever?

It is the inverter that sets the maximum generation. My inverter is rated at 4kW but with the output current limited to 16A. This caused the DNO to initially reject my application, saying it was over the limit for automatic approval, that was resp;ved when I sent them the data sheet stating the current limit.

You can buy (but hardly off the shelf, think bespoke) G99 or G100 relays. But these only limit the export to the maximum the DNO will allow. https://www.g59projects.co.uk/g100-export-limitation/ You would probably have to build / have built for you, some custom controls to monitor export and if too much shut down one or more inverter. I dump my excess power to the immersion heater and a small panel heater if the export is more than the immersion can soak up on it's own. When it gets too hot to tollerate any more heat in the house, I might put that heater in the garage out of spite, rather than export it for nothing.

At that size you will need permission from DNO (unless it is 3 phase) Fit battery storage. then you only have to think about shutting down an inverter if the batteries are fully charged.

I hate buying timber. It does not matter if you go to the timber merchant yourself and pick out the straightest, nicest lengths, it WILL still warp when you take it somewhere else. To try and prevent that you can store it all on a flat surface with heavy objects on it to hold it straight and true. That just delays it's tendancy to warp a bit longer.

It is a private track to access your house. No different to if it were a bare plot and you were proposing a new house and a new track. Surely all that highways are interested in, is that the junction where your private track meets the public road has sufficient visibility and meets their access requirements (that may nor may not mean some alterations to what you have) You only have to build the track to highways standard and tar it if it serves more than 4 houses. I like this old map site because you can compare how different editions of a map portray the same area https://maps.nls.uk/geo/explore/side-by-side/#zoom=5&lat=56.00000&lon=-4.00000&layers=1&right=BingHyb

Air will not make the valve stick. The dirty black water suggests there is no inhibitor and everything is rusty as hell and corroded as hell.