ProDave

Put a simple banister and make this an "after sign off" project.

How water first. Thermal store is the very last thing you want. A thermal store has to store water and a much higher temperature than the delivered water temperature otherwise it's capacity will be very low. So if choosing a water tank, choose an unvented cylinder (UVC) that only has to store water at the required use temperture and several of us have found about 48 degrees to be plenty. that is low enough for an ASHP to heat okay. The Sun Amp is a different animal. It does what it does very well. It's main selling point is the way it stores heat it packs a lot of storage into a small space and with it's vacuum panel insulation the standing heat losses are very low. However you won't heat them with an ASHP. That's too much of a limitation for me. Do your sums carefully before going for UFH in an old leaky building. You will require a lot more heat per square metre than a modern house so you really really need to make sure you have a LOT of insulation under the floors. That is likely to be a lot of work.

How wide is the shared path? In principle you could put a wall or fence (I would choose fence, it is easier and thinner) between the two houses. Stop the fence 1 metre short of the shared entrance gap in the wall. Do what you like to the path on your side of the fence. The only issue is would that leave the other house with just a half width path to walk down? you could argue that is his problem as long as you leave full access to the shared gap in the wall. I can understand the landlord not wanting to spend money right now. He could be in the situation of many landlords at the moment having to accept lower rent as the tenants may have lost their jobs etc.

That garage is cleaner and more inviting than many of the houses I work in.

I keep my classic landrover in my garage. It ensures there is space to get one of the other cars in if they need work. Otherwise most people fill their garage with junk and can never get a car in it. For me a garage, or at the very least space to build one, is a must have with any house I buy. So even if you don't build one, make sure you leave space so one can be added later on. Attached will cost less to build than detached, and most people would find that more useful.

That will do, but before you order it, check the dimensions against the one that is in there, to make sure it will fit into the space you have P.S there is no absolute guarantee this is the fault, but if you are sure the impeller is free to rotate and the fact the armature seems intact is is quite likely.

There is a start capacitor, probably inside the terminal box, a big cylinder with 2 wires emerging. That has probably failed. Turn the power off and lift the lid off the terminal box and post a picture.

Framework in industrial buildings for hanging cable tray, air conditioners, pipes and just about anything else from. Look up next time you are in one of the sheds. I used it for the frame for my solar panels, a lot cheaper than the aluminium stuff you are supposed to use. (driving home with 10 6 metre lengths on the roof rack was interesting)

The rise and going of all stairs in a flight must be the same. I have always taken that to mean ALL if them. Are you suggesting this is treated as two separate flights so they could be different? I think that would be very odd, so I would try and make them all the same. How about creating what you want with pre case concrete steps You will get a better, guaranteed finish on each step. you just have to build up blockwork at both sides to support them, and render the blockwork.

Is that the one where when they took the shuttering off the finish was not what they expected? They grew to like it but was not initially up to expectations. That is one big lump of concrete to have sitting there. Personally a quarter landing and second matching timber stair would float my boat.-

Most of us would be pushing up the daises before he had the foundations finished.

At least get an electrician to do an EICR (Electrical Installation Condition Report) and fix all the immediate issues, like those redundant cables hanging about around the consumer unit.

I think I have seen enough to suggest you would do well to have a rewire. There are lots of issues in that picture that give me little confidence that the house does not have lots of other disasters waiting to be found.

I am not sure what I am seeing there, other than it looks either unfinished or something that's been abandoned and partly stripped out. Assuming the source of supply is the Henley block (black rectangle between the switch fuses) then there is nothing going IN to it but two switch fuses going OUT of it. Left hand switch fuse connects to a steel wire armoured cable going where? Right hand switch fuse appears to go nowhere. No sign of an earth connection to the two metal adaptable boxes. No grommets to protect the cables between the adaptable box and switch fuses. Red and black exit separate holes, that can cause eddy currents so should exit the same hole or put a hacksaw cut between the holes. Single insulated cables so should be in trunking between switch fuses and adaptable box. 1 out of 10. Nothing to do with the DNO I am sure. Someone crude attempt to feed generator power into the house perhaps?

I have done it on both but mostly taper edge.

That is a risk. you have to be gentle. I put those screws in by hand with a handheld screwdriver,. just don't push hard and let the screw bit in. Plasterboard screws have very sharp points usually so will bite in with little pressure.

[pedantic] it's not a plug, it's a switch [/pedantic] If that's is what you are comfortable with then yes just disconnect the red and black coming out of the switch to the door bell. But it would be better if it's easy to follow the red and black going into the switch and see if you can disconnect that at it's source which is probably the consumer unit. Then you can remove the switch as well.

I am not sure it is a painters job to make a plastered wall smooth? If it's taped and filled it is often the painters that do the taping, filling then painting so then I would expect them to be responsible for the finish. We do all our own painting and the prep does involve sorting out gaps, cracks and areas of poor finish to the plaster, mostly in corners where the spread seems to have trouble getting his float in.

I don't know, I would have to look. The arduino connects to the pc used to program it via USB with a simulated serial port and that is what you normally use to read out data. I used one for my PV dump controller and if I want to see what it's doing I just open a terminal screen with PuTTY. I have my old, almost falling to bits ubuntu laptop now pretty much sitting there dedicated to that. EDIT: Here you are, arduino wifi https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/ArduinoUnoWiFi

I would not use a Pi for this, I would use an Arduino. But that is more because I am familliar with the Arduino. You will buy an arduino for less than £10 and the programmign software is a free downloadl Here is an example to get you started https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/TheGadgetBoy/ds18b20-digital-temperature-sensor-and-arduino-9cc806 To view the temperatures on a pc screen you can use the serial monitor built into the arduino programing package, but better would be to use PuTTY but in this case as a serial terminal emulator (PuTTY is very versatile)

You should not start until you have satisfied all pre commencement planning conditions. Ours confirmed in writing when they were satisfied. then you have to notify them when you start the development.

A standard single skin block wall with no doors or windows qualified at my last house.

That's not a "fault" of ICF though. They also had some blowouts doing the pour, but this is also the first time I have seen an ICF pour with no shuttering so not entirely surprising.

Go back after boarding, cut the holes, make sure the wires are still there and leave them within reach above the boards. I would MUCH rather mark out the holes on a bare plasterboard where you can still see where all the joists and PB joints are, than try and do it on a finished ceiling and risk drilling into the bottom of a joist or dwang. I learned very early on, don't trust other trades to cut downlight holes, not if you want them to be in a straight line.

If you end up in D&G you will get a plot for less than that. Cheapest at the moment is £30K (though you probably don't want that one) https://www.bspc.co.uk/plots/