ProDave

It's hard to estimate how long it took, because I did it as we go with cladding etc. Our build was a little unusual. The insulation went in as the wood fibre exterior insulation went on so the insulation got fitted as the cladding went on so none was exposed. That job took weeks (not continuously) as we clad a wall at a time then got it rendered Then inside, when doing the ceilings, the insulation was fitted from the inside, then OSB then battens then plasterboard. So done a room at a time or even a half room at a time I used Knauf Earthwool Frametherm 35. It is stiff enough to push in between the rafters and just stay there (I left a test piece for 6 months and it did not move or fall out) and is possibly the least bad of the mineral wool type if insulation to handle.

Look for ships lights?

Here is your solution. A compression fitting made especially to join 32mm pipe to "32mm" pipe https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/32mm-Universal-Chrome-Bottle-Trap-Waste-to-standard-uk-Plastic-waste-Pipe-comp/303240435038?hash=item469a89d55e:g:aoYAAOxyqKVRgzDi

Have you shortened the pipe? I have just had a look at mine and measured it. The chrome pipe, where it exits the bottle trap measured about 32mm OD. But at the end, it flares up to a larger diameter that I measured as 35mm and that nicely fits a "32mm" compression fitting. Here is one picked at random from ebay to show how the pipe flares up at the end to a bigger size https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrome-Plated-Bottle-Trap-BNIB/283898803468?hash=item4219aff50c:g:mrwAAOSwK4pey8BS

What are you doing about insulating the roof? I suspect there is none at the moment. If you want to preserve the original look from inside, then probably the best way is whole roof off on one go, external insulation making it a warm roof and re tile.

So your idea of crowd funding to repair the roof on the basis of community use might be the wrong approach now?

Most people want it the other way, the isolation out of the kitchen to save clutter so more likely to have the isolation in the utility room not the kitchen? For big appliances I like the isolation to be truly local. But our Fridge Freezer has it's isolation backing onto the kitchen which has ended up at the back of a shelving unit in the hall.

I have exactly the same one as @Onoff Here it is before the wall board goes on: This is where mine came from https://www.britishbathroomcompany.co.uk/reign-triple-shower-valve

So it's not going to be a house but a business venture?

I was originally going to use blown beads in a timber frame, but changed to Frametherm 35 instead. They both essentially give the same U values. So it came down to cost. I would have had to pay for the hire of a machine and a team to blow in the beads. The frametherm was DIY installed so cost £0

ASHP's do need a high flow rate, 17L/min does not surprise me, mine has a minimum flow of 15L/min and I only achieved that by putting a second circulating pump in.

I think a lot depends on where it is. I suspect you are looking at individual houses in the countryside, which in many places would not get planning permission now. Your only hope is the "replacement dwellings" policy and I suspect that is where they would argue it was not a dwelling but a ruin. If it has a roof, windows and could be lived in then you would stand a better chance than if it were just a few crumbling walls.

Are those your meter boxes? or does someone need access to them other than you?

Re harnesses. A fall arrest is probably overkill and in any event they need "space" to activate so are really meant for seriously high stuff. I just have a harness , a few climbers slings and caribinas and clip myself on to anything secure that might be the tree or might be the ladder.

I am not sure which is yours, but they all seem the same. I think the issue you will face, if you are the only one, is you will constantly get blocked in with cars parked as in that picture. Is it worth talking to the neighbours to see if you can get them, or at least some of them interested in doing the same thing? Then it could go on one planning application and the shared costs would make it cheaper. Then if several of you are using that "square" for access it should be easier to keep that area clear.

How about search your local gumtree / faceache / freecycle for old windows. you won't get the correct size of course but you can tack them in or on the openings and fill in around with OSB. It will be secure and (mostly) rain proof and will let some light in as well. This is what I have done with our sun room until we can get the proper windows. Most just boarded with OSB but one is a pair of French doors that became spare when next door was having new ones and it at least lets some light into the room.

3 storeys then? Or 2 with a mezanine upstairs.

That sounds like a good deal. As long as he doesn't hog it too much and it is available for when you want it.

That looks tall enough for 2 storeys of accommodation. I can see why the cherry picker will be useful.

Does it work plugged into the mains then? If so why even bother replacing the batteries?

MUCH larger for cables. You will likely need power and control cables. I suggest 50mm black duct through the wall for cables.

Spare cables, I leave coiled up adjacent to an accessory in use. Later you can just pop the back box of that accessory out and reach in to retrieve your spare cables. But keep a note and photographs of where they all end up.

That needs a tap connector, https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-straight-tap-connector-15mm-x/3063f And will be used with a fibre washer

I was not thinking of plastering the surround. I had in mind something more like a picture frame around the tv perhaps made of the same architrave you are using for the doors, that could easily be lifted off?

By far the simplest thing is cut all the plasterboard holes as you board the room, then everything reaches it's destination with no guesswork. Remember fixed mains wiring needs to comply with safe zones. speaker, network, aerial and av cables don't.