TonyT

Is he providing a couple of points for you to connect into, for anything in the future?

Wired or wireless?

COVID has prevented a lot of site visits, so I don’t think you are alone. you do know the architect has other clients to keep happy along with you, so it’s juggling time, so sometimes decisions are required in a timely manner to fit in with available time. I think a phone call will probably resolve it.... or bring it to a head, either way at least it’s happening before you are building.

There may only be 2 phases, 2 phase supply is a common rural thing

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Make sure materials are stored correctly, timber supported and covered up to prevent moisture/rain. no point in building with wet products if you have too, only prolongs the drying process

Smart TVs I’ve seen have Ethernet connection, but tend to default to WiFi as that’s what the masses use.

It’s normal for you if you want it to be. Guys I know work 8 hours with 15 minute break in the morning and 30 mins for lunch start at 8 and finish 4

Make sure you get some ducts in before the base is poured to make it easy for power supply? any solar going on it? EV charging? Driveway lights?

Cheaper insulation is climaflex. It’s not UV stabilised but if it’s in a duct it’s not getting UV so your shout. make sure the ducts are sealed. proprietary duct sealing kits such as rise. or expanding foam below the lip of the duct and then a weak mortar mix to infill

Come on mate, just get a spade and start digging Dig the hole, and cover with a sheet of 18mm plywood braced with 2x2 underneath to stop fatties going through the 18mm and plop a cone on top ir dig the hole and fit 3 heras fence panels around. either measure will stop morons falling down hole while you take it further.

Strengthen the existing joists and lay plywood in between the joists lay new tray on top of that mine was 40mm Mira anti slip. relay 22mm flooring, only 18mm to clear for the parents

Speak to Anderson Floor Warming in Glasgow.

Cat 6 for me too, 2 runs per point you need 47mm deep boxes to allow for bending radius and termination, you could put a double socket box and include the TV point in the same face plate. I did mine 15 years ago when rewiring and I only started using it 3/4 years ago when x boxes and smart TVs arrived. I think it’s worth it, given you are building from scratch.

Armaflex insulation for exterior use when it’s likely to be exposed to UV

At least they wont eat the galv conduit!

What about asking a shop fitter to quote. They should be able to handle all the standard carcass stuff, but utilise some fancy hafele ironmongery and bespoke materials to get a higher finish

When we had ours done , new left and right handed dropped kerbs were installed, existing straight kerbs were lifted and relaid at a lower level and the tarmac cut and patched to grade the pavement. £1k. 10 years ago

Could that have been a ploy in case they didn’t fit and then he didn’t order them?

Doesn’t matter, just like ProDave’s 6 years doesn’t mean you have to stay with the same company for the duration of the build.

I had self build insurance from self build insurance? £277.98. Based on £100k of work

Good practice as far as I’m concerned and in the Scottish Technical standards too ‘Every building must be designed and constructed in such a way that temperature loss from heated pipes, ducts and vessels, and temperature gain to cooled pipes and ducts, is resisted’

Leave it as it is now, the plasterer will fit an angle bead anyway which will straighten and strengthen the external corner

Sorry, just to be clear, is it just the combi boiler supply that is new? does it have a fused switched spur, to provide local isolation at the boiler. hopefully it’s been spurred off the socket circuit?

Check the decibel rating of each appliance as there can be a big difference you can get stick on pads for use in cars to deaden vibration, sticking on the sides of appliances may help reduce noise. if the appliance can be not in a direct line of sight of the seating that may help too