TonyT

It the boss man has offered to knock it down and redo it, let them crack on

It’s very rough, and he shouldn’t have left it like that. ask to redo and don’t pay until it meets your standards.

The builder is at it to cover his costs for his error.

Where do you stand to service the boiler? where do you put your tools? Is there adequate lighting? look up the installation manual for the boiler online probably tells you minimum space for maintenance

Invent time machine and don’t inform council of defects

In this situation I would go for surface boxes, easier to install and when it goes wrong easier to repair. Surface boxes that are plastic with the 20mm knock outs are preferable to the hard plastic type that may crack when screws are over tightened.

I would make the slab the same thickness all the way around, far easier to construct a shutter and install 2 layers of mesh than muck about with different depth. me I would go for 8” concrete slab c35 with mesh just under 7 cubic metres.

Get some stainless steel rope and wrap it around the lifting eyes and then resin this to the concrete, this will help prevent uplift while you add more mass.

And a condensate pipe and a control/power cable.

No not yet, just under the floorboards. Imagine rock wool cut into sausage shapes and stuffed up the gap will help a bit, at least stop mice running down/up the cavity. And stop some air infiltration from outside air/air bricks going up the wall too

Make sure you have metal boxes fitted to walls, simply because if you have flat plate accessories( sockets and switches) they look daft with the gap off the wall. 35mm boxes as a minimum allow plenty of room for sockets, usb sockets etc with 47mm for cooker switches, outlets etc.

I have a about 2ft -4ft depth under the floorboards, just crawled under the floor and fitted rock wool slabs friction fit ie cut just a bit bigger than the width and it holds it self in, it’s made a big difference to the room

If it’s not detailed who will be looking at the riser, no one will be taking responsibility. so best to ask the question now

pretty sure there is historic scotland reports on 5 or 6 difficult period properties that the helped insulate. I have the same build as you, and its the only thing left to do without removing period features, I have insulated the suspended timber floor from below but left the space at the bottom of the wall open- I may insulate this before the winter

You are on the right track! make the most of it and try and get 3phases worth of PV!

Make sure the shaft is fire stopped once services are complete, risers make lovely chimneys!

So looking around this seems to be the cheapest energy supplier for my figures. One Green Flex 7.0. Tariff type: Dual Fuel Only - Variable. Payment method: Direct Debit. Electricity unit rate: £0.1635064 per kWh. Electricity standing charge: £0.2100000 per day. Gas unit rate: £0.0301770 per kWh. Gas standing charge: £0.2100000 per day. Exit fees: N/A. anyone got a referral link to another company that can beat this, currently payine 16.35064 for elec and 3.061 for gas each with a standing charge of 16p per day, current deal ends at the end of the month. cheers tony

Fit plywood to the wall first and then fit the radiator brackets to the plywood

Cause they will invoice you for the day and if you don’t pay set the debt collectors on you

+1 for the last post. I use the green coloured version so it’s easy to identify cuts that have and have not been treated.

I put 200mm pir between my suspended floor joists, and then tar paper prior to fitting 28mm t&g floorboards. the tar paper is generally used by flooring contractors in my area laying wooden floors

Start now, if you are lucky it might be in for project completion!

Have a google plug in solar website You don’t get FIT payments if it’s DIY

Letter box thumb turn opener https://gbr.grandado.com/products/qsupokey-arrived-thumb-turn-by-pass-tool?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqZrPtpnF8QIVzYBQBh0xuATxEAQYBCABEgJ-D_D_BwE&variant=UHJvZHVjdFZhcmlhbnQ6MTk3MjU2OTQ

Feed in Tariff didn’t start until 2010.