Roundtuit

Why not ashp? Tried and tested technology; all you need to do is build airtight and insulate well. I'm sure a wood burner can be linked to a thermal store, but I'm not convinced the extra messing about is worth the effort.

Fair enough! apologies, only familiar with using room vents to control the flow. The mystery continues... (and I agree, the fabric of the house shouldn't still be drying out).

As above, get yourself a copy of Mark Brinkley's Housebuilders Bible to start getting your head around the process and cost implications of choices you might make in the early stages. Hold tight....its a rollercoaster! ?

Should be able to do it yourself with a hired meter. Was the system designed for you by the supplier? If so, they should be able to give you the design air flow rates for each terminal. That won't be helping IMO. Air will take the easiest route, so you need to restrict the 'easy' routes to force air through the longer, bendier ducts, otherwise the route of air flow through the house as a whole won't be as intended.

Somethings wrong somewhere. We can dry a machine full of clothes easily overnight. A bit of a long shot, but any chance some of your ducting has been accidentally connected to the wrong plenum and it recirculating extracted air?

At a rough guess, that's maybe about £2k in materials to upgrade...

You need a roofer that is used to working with old houses. Someone who usually works with new builds or modern houses will just cr@p themselves when they see an old roof in need of some work, and assume the worst. Hard to tell from photos, but structurally it doesn't look too bad. Maybe get the roof timbers inspected for wet/dry rot and woodworm by an independent surveyor before you make any decisions. As an aside, when I had an old roof re-slated (200 year old), I 'de-risked' it for the roofers and asked them to price for what they could see, and not build a contingency into the quote to cover 'hidden' problems. When any problems cropped up, they told me what the best fix was and I paid for it. I like to think I got a good job done, with no shortcuts, and only paid for what needed doing.

Wardrobes before carpet if you can, but definitely not on top of. I put some wardrobes in slow-time (like, 2 years after moving in...), so we'd already carpeted the room to make it 'finished'. Roll carpet back, take up grippers, remove skirting, build wardrobe, refit grippers and carpet. Wasted a bit of carpet, but it was better than having a part/un-carpeted room for a couple of years.

You've linked to EPS rather than PIR/PUR insulation; that's quite different in terms of performance, and as @PeterW suggests, I wouldn't use anything less than 3x2 (75 x 50mm) for studwork.

Under the slab, or under the screed? 100mm is pretty poor if you're building to a good insulated, airtight standard, and if you are, 150mm isn't 'top spec' either. I assume we're talking PIR?

+1 to that. It can be hard to get trades lined up in the way a main contractor can, so the job takes longer and you will end up doing stuff yourself that falls between trades, that a 'general labourer' would usually do between fag breaks. I built that way and it's hard work, but we saved a $h!t-load of money.

Looks like a field/wood mouse. I'm sure it could scale the wall and get in as you suspect, but my money would be on it getting in nearer ground level and going up the cavity.

Looking for anything specific? I've had some good hedging and small trees bought on-line at good prices from Beechwood Nurseries (3fatpigs.co.uk), and had a couple of hundred lavender plants from various places. Bigger trees from treescapenursery.co.uk, but delivery will probably kill it for you. Good to buy local if you can; it's surprising what you can get at wholesale prices if there are growers in your neck of the woods.

Can't help thinking you could have made up a re-inforced flint panel flat, on the bench, then fixed it in to place and pointed in afterwards...

Wheelbarrow and shovel?

Sorry, don't know anything about Siga tapes, but I think those straps definitely need covering if you want to avoid leaks, unless you're wet plastering.

By the time you've masked that lot off, you could have had the job done I reckon. Brush and roller gets my vote!

Unfortunately, your project isn't as as important to anyone else as it is to you, and in my experience, you need to stay close to it at every step to manage this sort tiresome ball-ache. If you've lost confidence, I'd probably persevere with whatever you are currently committed to, then part company. Getting someone else to do Building Regs submissions shouldn't be a problem.

As above, you can't really tell what's going on until you measure it. From memory, you can set extract and supply fan speeds independently I think, to compensate for differences in resistance in the ducting. For info, we've got a single unit, and the humidity sensor (on factory settings) kicks in within a couple of minutes of turning the shower on; never have to use the manual boost.

Personally, as there is an element of labour involved, I think it could all be zero rated; materials, plus pump and operator. As above, ask them to have a chat with their accountant to reassure them that is correct, as you wouldn't want them to accidentally charge you VAT illegally. To be safe, when they send the amended invoice, maybe ask them to word it as something like 'supply and install'...

I'm assuming 'slide and hide' comes at a premium price and/or perhaps reduces the internal size of the oven. If you're not tight for space, and have normal length arms, I'd go standard pivot.

Depending on what your driveway or path surface is, you might also need a flat area at the bottom of the ramp (i.e shouldn't terminate the ramp into gravel; need a bit of flat/smooth area for a wheelchair at the bottom).

Our architect marked the rpz on the plans, then I did as best I could with a few heras panels to make it look right. No problem with the council, and more importantly, all the trees are good.

I think it's Building Control you need to convince. Warranty providers will just want to be assured that the job's been done in accordance with the Building Regs application I suspect.

40kg empty (two man lift?), or 40kg plus water? Some sort of gallows brackets should do it I'd have thought.