Oz07

If suitable then give it a go. @nod?

Seems to be all the rage on commercial jobs but still on boards

Metal capping and back boxes?

Obvious benefit of boards is easier first fix for electrical and less damage to blockwork. How do you parge a chase?

Front step looks a bit high

If your nice to the driver and have 2 pallets for every pack of blocks he will drop them on pallets in halfs for you

I've known building control make people nog with like a H frame to support these ends when not on joists. I always try to make them land on joists providing the spacings aren't too crazy around staircases. Was very smug on the job where mine were all ok and bco made the other you need to as above.

Hope the buyers conveyancers have good insurance.

Cut all brass fittings off the copper tell them it's clean. Then your brass fittings and copper bits are more mixed

I see stepped ones on a new development near me which keeps the blockwork opening around 25mm wider each side. Windows fitted up to back of face brickwork which is unusual for volume developer.

2 units because of size of house?

I don't answer their calls, respond to any correspondence or let them on site. Learnt the hard way.

Set up an area where you can stockpile tarnac planings. Then get on the blower to local resurfacing companies or companies operating in your area. Pull up near jobs you see and offer some cash for loads

Would it change anything if you'd built the wall in the wrong place? I've had them visit before with that gizmo too

@Marvin how do you get on with that unit. I've got the same. Recently cleaned the pre filters and was impressed at what they caught but it has been dry. It seems the unit is sealed and there is no way to change the actual filters.

Lost my old phone halfway thru but you won't go wrong.

I've done very similar to you except 140mm void, 2 lots of cross battened 70mm timber. Headers fixed exactly as you describe. I think I did chuck some acoustic wool offcuts above the studs in places but wasn't overly worried. I had 15mm pb on ceilings and I don't really have any occupied rooms next to each other. Had a niche as you describe to except for a bit of ply before the plasterboard

My god...seems high to me but have no idea if fair.

Think I've used them all. I'm basically a price whore. Ffx good on lower value as delivery normally inc. ITS usually dearer but do have occasional offers. Powertoolmate fine.

To me the whole idea of choosing some plastic product to imitate wood makes me puke. I'd rather have a smooth plastic flush casement with welded mitres than a woodgrain one with vertical welds. A bit like that flo plast imitation cast iron gear. Each to their own though if we all liked the same It would be boring

I can always spot the welded mitres on the casements. Vertical joints would look a lot more authentic

Tilemaster do an external self levelling compound suitable for a wearing surface. My last garage was mint but this one I caught a cold with different batches of conc needed. The flatness is still good but the finish was dog poo so sealed with that.

What a terrible detail that is could in not be routed inside

The pipe size shouldn't impact penetration heights as you will be working off invert levels anyway ie bottom of pipe. It would only add an extra 40mm on top of the height if upsizing. Like has been said though 110 simpler all around

I think the gun can fire full heads but I just used proper galv clipped head ring shanks at 51mm