Oz07

If they are delivered soaking wet and weighing a tonne they shouldn't split when nailing. Its mainly dry timber that splits. Roofer i use insists on hand nailing battens.

I was aware of the 750 - 1350 requirement from water utility provider just wanted clarification on the 'deep ploughed' situation cheers. 1M bucket no wonder the spoil pile looks massive! Next step really is to get a quote off Western Power. Just hoping they are happy to lay cable in an open trench but if they might start specifying all silly h&s rules if trench is over 1m deep due to 'deep ploughed' requirement.

Whats that a 600 bucket been used? Is that for separation between services? I would go for longer continuous water pipe if available. The easement is shaped so its along the edge of the field presumably away from ploughing area. Maybe still have to go deeper who sets the depth rules water board? Did anyone see the pipe burier clarkson had in clarksons farm? Great bit of kit just went on back of his tractor. Not sure how would cope with bends though.

Sounds like sub 4k for the bulk of the private work then and whatever the usual connection cost is. Round here its usually the same again 3 or 4 k. I would be happy to get change from 10k at that length.

The plot I am looking at has an easement through a neighbouring field for the utility connections. Unfortunately the route is approx 220m long and has 3 90deg bends in it. I am trying to get an idea for utility costings. I can do the work on the field side but obviously need the utility companies for the small bit at the road connection. Water isn't too much of an issue. Long trench with long pipe. Albeit a few joins. Maybe a duct and maybe have the welded joint if possible. Shouldn't imagine cost is any more than usual for the actual connection. Elec presents more of an issue. I had a service put in once where I had dug and installed the duct and it made me ill when I spotted the 63mm cable they had rolled up ready to pull through. Luckily it was straight trench and my duct laying must of been okay because it pulled through fine. They did lift up half the digger and use one of the tracks as a winch to pull the drawcord. How would you go about it in this case? I can't see a cable threading through a 90 deg bend very well and 220m is a hell of a distance. What is the usual procedure? Leave holes every so often and at bends? Leave the trench open and let the utility company (western power) just lay the cable straight in? Would they even let you do this or would they want to back fill so cable isn't exposed? Does anyone have any idea of costs when it comes to a connection like this? Do they charge by the metre or is each job individual? I would guess the connection at the road end makes up the bulk of the cost with the digging and traffic management. Telecom I am guessing is not too bad. I have had Openreach supply me duct and cable before and I have buried this and installed the cable ready for the engineers to come and connect up. Thanks

Ive used twin drum ride on roller before theyre not too expensive to hire.

The membranes are magic at distributing the weight but you'd deffo want to be lower than aby soil it will just liquefy. You can use a good thickness of 6f2 to make up the levels it will cover more m2 to the tonne than type 1

No i think you'd still need expansion here. Cant you get a t bar in the same finish as floor will only protrude 7mm or so

Ive had 300mm before for floor

Interesting thanks. So your pozis go side to side not wall to ridge or am i seeing it wrong?

Did you counter batten below this for services or were they all coming up through the floor?

Its a shame you cant seal the blocks for 6 months. Gotta try to keep them clean for those 6 months. Ive started to bleach with water and brush mine. Let it sit for 10 mins and wash off

Oil and rads deffo.

Has anybody got a link to a building regs doc which states minimum distances from a sewage pump station to a house? I've scanned doc h but didn't see it. Thanks

Building control / local authority give you the address here.

Cheers does it matter on size of solar or would any of got you an a? I suspect solar would have got my current place to an a too. Assuming the sap system is logical which it sounds like it isnt!? Did you go triple glazed?

Assuming underside of worktop level you can adjust doors all up to a packer beneath worktop

Interesting comments. Atleast you can play around with the design post planning. Altering windows for part O seems a bit arse about tit. Im not interested in cheating the system or getting away with bare bones. Im considering an application in the "countryside" and trying to at least make the physical dwelling be as sustainable as possible even if the location isn't!

This is what i thought under the old scheme you could just load up on pv

Care to share any obvious ones

Was the epc a?

I suppose the assessor can play around with the figures in sap let you know what to aim for?

I seem to remember it being discussed here years ago they did away with this loophole. When was your epc done? Cam DNO restrict size of pv?

How hard is it nowadays to achieve an epc of A with a new build? I seem to remember it being discussed changes were made to stop people incorporating loads of solar pv to offset poor design. What kind of ratings is everyone here achieving? My place built a few years ago came to a B. Im trying to understand if it would be prohibitively expensive nowadays to achieve A or whether it is do able without going full on passive. Cheers

I have a combi discharge into internal drain after a "hotun" branded tundish. Signed off no probs but maybe different with cylinder