Oz07

I know this is nothing to do with the sunamp but the more I hear about these the less appealing they seem. Never seem to hear any good news about them

I had 1.19 and I thought it converted to around .6ach but I could be wrong. I think I googled some conversion? Your blower door man should of known it was a good figure he would of had to close up all the holes in his door bar one. The guy I used was about creaming his pants but he was used to doing bog standard newbuilds

7n only usually used on 3 storey. SE knows best but you can ask the question

scaffold boards and re sell when done

I thought building regs stipulated minimum 30mm overhang into cavity? If I understand you right and inside of your Windows flush with back of brickwork you need to push them in further.

Never done it but ringshanks sound best to me. Quicker and will close the gap. Sometimes screws don't pull both pieces tight if wrong screw or technique

I think they put antifreeze in them don't they?

Any you're diving straight back in. Fair play!

I just go for whatever recognised brand is doing the longest warranty. If you can get 10 year warranty I think you can then start to whittle down on price who cares about parts availability.

Last year city plumb were doing brilliant deals on glow worm, mag filter, flue and 10yr warranty. The independents couldn't touch them. Sure they are a re badged valliant anyway now? Plus buying British!

If it's just for the roof crane would be better bet as above.

I like to cut the doorway out after on my own stuff, not full board over though I don't mind having a joint on a nog in centre. All the newbuild sites seem to join in line with the frame urgh gash.

Never been through a third party what are you paying for? I have had a stand Pipe connection previously approved then converted it to a standard house connection.

Maybe there's a difference when using full fill batts/wool or bead versus ventilated PIR insulation cavity

Never closed one on a single detached house in my life. Perhaps i've been doing it wrong

Id probably monitor for now without informing insurers but thats just my internet strangers opinion. You could open a can of worms telling the insurers. It looks a pretty typical place a small crack would develop although i'm no expert. Vertical crack = horizontal movement. Position is near to a pier and where single storey meets double gable. If being built on a new build site nowadays I wouldn't be surprised to see a movement joint there. My last (60's, cavity) place had 2 vertical cracks under a window on seperate elevations. I got them surveyed before purchase and thermal expansion was the result. I repointed one and chopped out and replaced some bricks in the other. New place I put a movement joint in on a slightly less than 12m wall. You didn't have to by the book but a siliconed expansion join looks a lot better than a random crack.

Water board should advise you on supply size. Round here they want 32mm for anything above 3 beds. Not sure how strict that is. You can get preinsulated duct with mdpe already in. I'd honestly consider this in your arrangement. The water board are the worst for failing round here anything they can think of. If your void will be accessible when water is inspected there's a lot less risk. If your b&b will be insulated and screeded prior to sign off go with belt and braces approach above.

Did they turn up on a horse? In all seriousness you often find roles reversed now. Plain tatty van could just as easily be top tradesman a lot if cowboys now have the signwritten vans, 0800 is a red flag as is we do- followed by every trade.

Roddable gully for me. Osma do a good one where you will still be able to pull trap out if using solvent weld. Otherwise use push fit on the 40mm. Doesn't matter about changing directions if your going vertical down into the gully. The water isn't going to remember what direction is was going before dropping.

Something like a mitre block on architrave? Maybe something a bit proud with chamfered edges. Depends what look you want

Doesn't silicone rot lead? Hence leadmate. Honestly @epsilonGreedy your worrying too much about the colour. Just use lead mate it looks fine when done. Particularly 3 winters later when half the compo isn't missing.

Might be questions asked if it burnt down in meantime. I've always understood bco sign off needed as minimum

You only spend it once

Yes bloody auto correct

You'd probably want warm roof if going down this route. Which is not something to change on the hip it will have knock on effects with detailing and sizes