Oz07

Ground level outside

I'd get your building regs drawings done first if you haven't already. For pricing. A lot can be fixed, some will be provisional

If you fix to external skin your only really limited by how good a fixing you can get. 30mm over brickwork 40mm into cav seems to work ok. Last new build I used a different method for better fixing. Fixed a 2x2 treated batten up the inside face of brickwork, cavity closer thickness back from edge and dpc between timber and brick. This enables you to drop it back more but still get decent fixing. Although with a thinner cavity it might be hard to do.

Or do as we are on current job. Let partitioners do all work on price with double plasterboard. Don't bother to spec ply on back layer. let dry liners steam ahead covering everywhere. Later cut out patches everywhere to put support in for everything after skim and mist coat. Proceed to complain job is behind and wonder why finish is crap.

Just buy a box 10/12

Looks good

2 layers of dpm if pir insulation.

Thought there would be a solution! how was your racking done @ProDave? Studs set to imperial or metric boards sourced?

Is there no metric sheets of OSB made specifically for this issue? Or can t&g sheeting be bought which works with 400/600?

Didn't notice till you said! Small pictures on these phones! nice looking drum!

Op suggest 10% perhaps and payable day work starts?

Cmon @JSHarris your maths is better than that

BCO usually agree during build providing your as built SAP will still stack up

Providing you have the easement and could lay new pipe I'm guessing if the economics worked for one house it will certainly work for 5! I.e. You should be able to afford a new main with the uplift in value of land

Pm'd

Definitely coming from the flue. @Nickfromwales any ideas?

I wish! seems to be coming out the flue though. Just been outside and is as loud as inside.

My 18month old combi has recently started to whistle on heating. No such sound on hot water. Really high pitched. Got told could be air so bled every rad. None had any air apart from towel rail (highest so seemed to make sense). Was quite a bit in. This hasn't stopped it whistling though. Could there be air in the pump? Why only on heating and not hot water? One thing I did do for the summer is turn off all rads at TRV apart from one where room stat was (no trv) and towel rail. Came on for around 3/4 hour each night to dry towels. Now all rads are back on. Thanks in advance

Wouldn't want mdf linings myself. Can see the advantage with being more stable on a tight program but less workable imo

Henrys pretty bombproof I use it and like you, notice contract cleaners do too. Perhaps as @Ferdinand says try to source a non eu handicapped model. What's this about conversion kit to wet and dry?! also my Henry has lost one of his legs (wheels). Presume you can buy spares but every wheel I've tried to nick off other Henry's never seems to come off easily!

Eaves doors look crisp. What are they and how do they work? Can't see any hinge knuckles and don't appear to be staggered for sliding

In case sarcasm was missed I was having a dig at the modern way of paving everything ! btw @ProDave I'd be dubious of that advice. Sure I wouldn't be letting highways claim ownership or control of front portion of any of my ground. There may be some argument for splays which have existed for 20+ years but even then... a prudent housebuilder with a wide enough plot should put the road access at least the visibility splays width away from their boundary

Block pave it...

Some saving on that amount well done

What kind of price is that saving on?